This should have a hydraulic clutch look for a leak in the line from the inside all the way down to the clutch if the pump is empty add fluid pump it a few times and locate the leak post your finding good luck
SOURCE: 2001 ford ranger clutch
have you check the slave cylinder to see if its moving when someone puts there foot on the clutch.
And check the adjustment on the master cylinder.
SOURCE: replaced clutch & slave cylinder on 2001 ford ranger can't bleed
Do a web search on it, and it will tell you the proper way to bleed it.
SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
SOURCE: Need 93 ford F250 clutch diagram to understand how it works
It must a Diesel? Exterior slave cylinder? The double, or split, flywheel has is made of two major parts. One part is bolted to the crankshaft and there is a bearing that supports the other part of the flywheel that pressure plate bolts to. There are cushioning springs in the flywheel instead of in the clutch disc, it's not a very good set-up and they are prone to failure. "LUK Clutch Company", makes a solid flywheel and regular clutch for those trucks, there might other companies too. The clutch works the same way as any other clutch but, the reason it pushes hard is because the sleave that the release bearing (throw out bearing) rides on, is most likely galled or dry. That sleave is made of aluminum and they have a nasty habit of getting messed up, I don't remember if there are 3 or 4 bolts that hold that sleave on the front of the trans. At any rate that sleave is easy to replace once the trany is out of the vehicle, check the arm for wear and cracks too. If you don't want to pull the trans to fix it right, you might be able pull the boot out that goes around the clutch release arm enough to squirt some oil up on that sleave, that might get you by for a while.
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SOURCE: no clutch pedal been bleeding it for 3 days
these are notorius for clutch bleeding problems, there is no good answer other than to keep pumping that pedal, eventually it will bleed out
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