I have replaced two times right front caliper on Mitsubishi lancer 2002 because they did not releasing properly discs . I still have the same problem , specially when I'm driving locally and I'm using breaks more?

The caliper is probably in good order. But rust is taking hold.Jack up the car,remove the wheel, and take off the two bolts holding onto the caliper. You can hang the caliper on the strut spring. DO NOT LET IT HANG BY THE BRAKE HOSE. Now remove the small brake pad sliders from the caliper mount and using a file remove all the rust that is underneath. In older cars when rust forms under the pad sliders it jams up the calipers making the brakes over heat. If you take off two more bolts you can clean the rust off the caliper mount at your work bench. Assembly is in reverse order and do not neglect to clean the rust off the caliper mount on the other wheel also.

Possible bad hoose betwen caliper and brake pipe.

You have most likely not gotten the "ears" on one of the brake pads on the correct side of the guides. This causes the brake pad to lock the calliper and prevent it from releasing. This will result in extremely heavy wear and damage on the brake pads and disc. Do NOT drive the car further before item
is rectified.

Did you service the caliper slide pins to ensure the caliper slides freely? A rusted pin causes vibration.

Also check your ball joints and ties rod ends for wear. New bigger rims can accentuate worn components.

Do your new rims include hub adapter rings to EXACTLY center the rims on the hubs?

Sounds like it is time to put in a new set of front brake shoes. If you have scored one of the brake discs you will have to replace it or have it turned. You should be able to inspect the out side of the discs by looking through the front wheel holes. You will have to take off the wheels to inspect the pads and the inside disc surface for scoring. If you take off the wheel and look through the caliper you should be able to find the pad that has worn down to the disc.

Front brakes are very simple to do:

• Pull off the front tires.
• Remove the brake pads by removing the slide pin bolts where the piston assembly attaches to the caliper mounting bracket. The slide pin bolts are usually a 12 or 14mm bolt. Once the piston assembly is free slide the old brake pads out.
• Compress the piston back into the caliper by using a large pair of channel lock pliers or a c-clamp. If you don't do this, you won't be able to get the new pads on.
• Before you put the new pads on, replace the rotor.
• Remove the two bolts for the caliper mounting bracket. They are in the back and are bigger than the slide pin bolts. Usually a 17 or 19mm bolt.
• Pull off the caliper mounting bracket.
• At this point the old rotor should slide right off. If it doesn't slide right off, look for a screw in the center of the rotor, some cars will have a screw there to hold the rotor on. If there's no screw and it still won't come off, try tapping it with a hammer. If you're replacing the rotor, don't be shy.
• Put the new rotor on. Make sure to clean off any grease with brake cleaner that may be on the braking surface from packaging.
• Put the caliper mounting bracket back on.
• Put the new brake pads on. Make sure to use some anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads.
• Put the caliper assembly back on with the slide pins. Grease up the slide pins as well.
• Put the wheels back on.
• Make sure to pump your brakes 10 - 15 times before you drive off. Because you compressed the piston back into the caliper, the piston will not be contacting the brake pads unless you pump the brakes.

Good Luck!
~Brandon

If your calipers are dirty and not floating properly, it can cause the pads to rub. This causes disc glazing and the squeaking that you are hearing. If you pressure wash the calipers the problem should clear up with normal driving.

Its not really easy to explain over the net. But the front engine cover has to be removed to gain acces to the front of the cams. You will need to remove most al of your belt drive accessories to do this. Its also critical to ensure you line up the timing marks correctly when re assembling (or timing will never be right). You may also want to replace the water pump at this time too...

sounds like axle shaft replacement time

shack

If you mean caliper, take the lid off the brake fluid resivoir and use a c clamp to compress the caliper.