Question about 1986 Pontiac 6000

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Probem with taking off the rear ex. manifold of

Probem with taking off the rear ex. manifold of an V-6 engine
tools for losing the bolts

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  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    what do u mean tools for losing the bolts where did they go?

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  • 58 Answers

Use a long handled flex-head socket wrench

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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Torque specification for 1995 ford Taurus


4 Cyl Intake manifold bolts to heads = 15 to 23 Ft-lbs
6 Cyl 3.0L Step 1 = 11, step 2 = 21
6 Cyl 3.8L Step 1 = 7, step 2 = 15 & step 3 = 24 Ft-lbs
Tighten the bolts in secuence from center to out, alternating sides (front & rear); reaching the specified torque in several stages. I hope this helps. Take care.

May 25, 2014 | 1995 Ford Taurus

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How to change spark plugs on a 2002 Saturn L300


This is a difficult car to change them on so i have provided a guide to help people out.Tools required:


1 Crescent Wrench 1 "5/8 Spark Plug Socket 1 "3/8 Drive Ratchet 1 "3/8 Drive Extension 1 "1/4 Drive Ratchet 1 Pair of Small Channel Lock Pliers 1 Inverted Torx Socket Set
Even if you do not own any tools at most you should spend about $75 for the tools required to do this task.

Looking down at the engine you will see the two intake manifold runners and four boots for each one. Each boot has two clamps. The easiest way to take them off was to use a pair of small channel lock pliers to squeeze the clamp enough to unlatch the clip. they make a special tool for this, But its not really worth the money.



The front manifold is a little easier than the rear one. there are only three bolts that need to be unbolted and the manifold should slide off.


Now there are two bolts that need to be removed and the coil packs can be slid out.


The front spark plugs are now exposed and can be changed.

The rear is a little more tricky because there is more that needs to be removed off of the manifold. The PCM can either be unbolted or unplugged. Whichever method you choose you may be required to use the re-learn technique for the pass-key system. There are two vacuum hoses that go to a black box that need to be removed. There is a brass fitting that is holding a larger vacuum hose onto the manifold. There is a sensor that needs to be unplugged on the right side of the manifold. there are four bolts that hold the manifold down. there are 4 total and two are in the back of the manifold.


Now you should be ready to pull off the manifold. Make sure there are no more harnesses or sensors attached to the back of the manifold. It looks like there is one or 2 from the manual. Pull the manifold off and you will expose the coil pack. Unbolt it just like you did the front and pull the coil packs off to expose the rear spark plugs. Change your spark plugs and put everything back reverse of the install.

Some tips. I find its best to take ziploc bags and put bolts for specific steps and mark them with a permanent marker so you do not confuse them. Also it helps to take pictures with a digital camera on each steps so you know how it looked before you put it on.

on Aug 31, 2010 | Saturn L300 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace oil pan gasket


1994-96 VEHICLES
( see Figures 6 and 7 / click image for zoom )


zjlimited_1359.jpg

Fig. 6: Oil pan mounting bolt locations-1996 3.1L engine shown

zjlimited_1360.jpg

Fig. 7: Oil pan sealant application points-1996 3.1L engine shown

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
It may be necessary to remove the hood, with the help of an assistant, for access.
  1. Remove the engine mount strut and A/C compressor (if equipped) and the engine mount strut bracket assemblies.
  2. Remove the electric cooling fan assemblies. -28467 and J 26462, or equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the engine oil.
  4. Remove the front exhaust manifold pipe.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft bolt/screw.
  6. Remove the oil level sensor.
  7. Remove the engine splash shield.
  8. Suitable support the drivetrain and front suspension with jack stands.
  9. Remove the transaxle mount side frame retaining nuts from the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
  10. Remove the engine mount side frame nuts from the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
  11. Unfasten the rear drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
  12. If equipped, remove the lower drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
  13. Remove the engine mount assembly.
  14. Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
  15. Remove the starter.
  16. Disconnect the transaxle mount assembly from the oil pan.
  17. Unfasten the side bolts and screws and the retaining bolts and screws, then remove the oil pan. Remove and discard the oil pan gasket.
To install:
  1. Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
  2. Apply a small amount of sealer on either side of the rear main bearing cap, where the seal surface on the cap meets the cylinder block. Install a new gasket on the oil pan.
  3. Position the oil pan and secure with the retaining bolts and screws. Tighten the retaining bolts and screws to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and the side bolts/screws using tool J 39505 or equivalent.
  4. Fasten the transaxle mount assembly to the oil pan.
  5. Install the starter motor.
  6. Install the flywheel inspection cover.
  7. Install the engine mount assembly.
  8. Carefully raise the drivetrain and front suspension assembly. Install the rear drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
  9. Fasten the engine mount frame side nuts to the drivetrain and front suspension frame assembly. Install the transaxle mount frame side nuts to the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
  10. Remove the jackstands from the drivetrain and front suspension frame assembly.
  11. Install the engine splash shield and the oil level sensor.
  12. Install the intermediate steering shaft bolt/screw. Connect the front exhaust manifold pipe.
  13. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the engine support tools.
  15. Install the electric cooling fan assemblies.
  16. Install the engine mount strut and A/C compressor, bracket and the engine mount strut bracket.
  17. If removed, install the hood assembly.
  18. Fill the crankcase to the correct level. Connect the negative battery cable. Run the engine to normal operating temperature and check for leaks.
Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

Jun 04, 2011 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

Tourqe specs for 2.8 liter motor.


Camshaft Sprocket: 15-20ftlbs
Camshaft Rear Cover: 6-9ftlbs
Torsional Dampener: 67-85ftlbs
Exhaust Manifold: 15-23ftlbs
Water Pump: 6-9ftlbs
Thermostat Housing: 15-23ftlbs
Intake Manifold: 23ftlbs
Timing Chain Dampener: 14-19ftlbs
Rocker Arm Cover: 6-9ftlbs
Rock Arm Nuts: 15-20ftlbs
Oil Pan: 15-23ftlbs(M8 Bolts) 6-9ftlbs(M6 Bolts)
Main Bearing Caps: 63-83ftlbs
Connecting Rod Main Cap: 34-40ftlbs
Cylinder Heads: 33ftlbs(+ an additional 1/4 Turn)
Engine Mounts: 34ftlbs
Oil Filter Adapter to Engine: 34ftlbs
Oil Filter Adapter Bolt: 63ftlbs
Oil Pressure Switch: 10ftlbs
Oil Pump Drive Bolt: 25ftlbs
Oil Pump Mounting Bolts: 30ftlbs
EGR Valve: 19ftlbs
EGR Tube Nut: 19ftlbs
Fuel Line Nuts: 17ftlbs
Fuel Rail Attaching Bolts: 88in.lbs
Fuel Rail Inlet Fitting: 35ftlbs
Fuel Rail Mounting Bracket: 28in.lbs
Fuel Rail Outlet Fitting: 30ftlbs
Fuel Pressure Connector: 88in.lbs
Fuel Pressure Regulator Bracket: 28in.lbs
Idle Air Control Valve: 30in.lbs
Idle Air/Vacuum Signal Housing: 30in.lbs
Intake Air Plenum Bolts: 16ftlbs
Thorottle Body Attaching Bolts: 18ftlbs
Throttle Position Sensor: 18in.lbs
Crankshaft Sensor: 71in.lbs
DIS Assembly to Block: 15-22ftlbs
Knock Sensor: 14ftlbs

Dec 15, 2010 | 1989 Chevrolet Celebrity

2 Answers

I'm in the process of replacing the thermostat on my 2003 freelander. finally got the coolant drained......that was fun. everything is disconnected and all intake plenum bolts removed( 4 small in the...


You will have to remove the intake manifold (this is the solid large plastic cover that covers the top of the engine when you remove the engine cover). There are many wires and small vacuum hoses to disconnect. Plus.., when re-installing, it is a common problem the manifold cracks if excessive torque is applied to the fastening bolts. And you probably should relpace the intake manifold gasket.You can then remove the thermostat assembly by disconnecting the hoses and loosening the mounting screw.

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The procedure as per service manual is as follows:----

Following the Service Manual instructions, drain the coolant circuit, then remove the return pipe and the short rubber hose connected to the engine main coolant rail (1 clip at the bottom + 1 clip at the top). You remove also the outlet hose (1 clip at the engine outlet spout + 1 clip at the bottom pipe, you need to loosen the pipe mount to remove the hose). Once removed the return pipe you can undo the coolant rail: 2 (tight) bolts below the rail and the oil dipstick bolt holding the thermostat housing. Doing this without the manifold in place is simple, but its not that easy with the manifold on.... once loosened the coolant rail you can remove the thermostat housing. You open it (3 bolts) and replace the old thermostat with new. All 3 gaskets should be replaced, to minimize the risk of leaks. Apply silicone lubricant on the O-rings, then fit housing + coolant rail back in.

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This will help you.Thanks.Helpmech.



Nov 16, 2010 | 2003 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

Is changing the head gasket in a 94 continental executive series the same as it is in most cars? Time intensive but relatively simple?


Sorta easy. This is what i did. took off all the brackets i could see connected to both heads. once the alternator and ps pump are out of your way but not disconnected sorta resting to the side, Make sure battery is not connected. lol once you have everything peeled off the block,. Then you can start with the (uim)upper intake manifold. 6 bolts 2 studded 4 aren't. and 2 bolts holding the throttle and transmission linkage. Pull the (UIM) and you will see the the intake manifold(IM) Theres like 12 bolts one is studded. take em off and carefully pry the (IM) off the Block. then take your valve cover bolts sud be 5 of them 3 are studded and lay near the plugs. Once your at this point you will see your 10 rods i think held down by about 5 bolts each side..now get a cardboard box and punch small holes in them and place the rods you remove in the same order you take them out so you can put them back in exactly. Now a lil tricky is the exhaust manifold get a pry bar ready take your plugs out and undo the exhaust manifold bolts out 6 of them. if you must. id spray liquid wrench on them a day or two in advance. I had no problem removing any my bolts no breaks. But i did take time to let LW to soak in over night. once bolts are out. you need to pry back the exhaust manifold a lil to remove the head on each end. thats If you dont decide to take the whole exhaust manifold out. Once heads are off and out. take em to your local machinist test them for cracks and warps. Then buy the headgasket kit and bolts runs about 150. you can not reuse the head bolts they are stretching type. some rtv and torquing . put her together and your good to go. Now thing i left out. Yes the full injectors are held in by a t10 torxs i think. pull em all out at once 6 of them.keep them attached and dont disconnect the gas line. put it to the side. then the coolant hose came off with no fluid in it. the hoses i took off the engine did not contain fluids. This is where i got my torque specs. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/650.shtml#NOTE%202
Tools i used are mainly 13 mm short and deep socket 15 mm short and deep socket. and a 10 mm. and random other tools that help you reach and angle. Hope this helps. And good luck. Ps b4 you take her apart can you take images from under the hood. I do have a bracket which im trying to find out it went. for now its coat hanging ;)







Jul 01, 2010 | 1994 Lincoln Continental

1 Answer

Hot do you take off a 98 GMC 5.7 vortec intake


Note, removing the upper intake manifold is not necessary when removing lower intake manifold, they are removed as an assembly.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain cooling system. Remove air cleaner assembly and inlet duct. Mark and remove distributor. Remove upper radiator hose at thermostat housing. Disconnect accelerator and cruise control cables. Remove heater hoses from intake manifold. Remove EGR pipe.
Disconnect fuel lines at rear of engine. Remove AC compressor and set aside(leave hoses connected). Remove canister purge solenoid. Disconnect theSCPI injector, ignition coil, Ignition Control Module, generator,IAC motor, TP sensor, O2 sensor, Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve and Engine Coolant Temperature sensor wiring harness connectors. Remove PCV valve and hose. Remove lower intake manifold bolts. Remove lower intake manifold.
Installation.
Always use New O-rings when reconnecting fuel lines at rear of engine. Apply a bead of RTV silicone sealer along the front and rear sealing surfaces of the block.See Fig.6. Install new gaskets and intake manifold on block while RTV is still wet to the touch. Use Threadlock 12345382 or equivalent to lower intake manifold bolts. Tighten lower intake manifold bolts in sequence to specification table. See fig. 7. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.f52665d.gifabc2b5f.gif

Oct 10, 2009 | 1998 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Torque setting for intake manifold, head bolt and exhaust manifold1992 ford explorer


what engine do you have? the 4.0l push rod engine = in/manifold 15-18ft-lb, cyl.head bolts=stp1:44ft-lb stp2: 59ft-lb,stp3: + 90 degrees, ex/manifold = 15-18 ft-lb. the 4.0l sohc.engine = in/manifold107-123 in-lb,cyl.head bolt 8mm=23-25ft-lb,12mm=26 ft-lb+90 degrees+90 degrees,ex/manifold= 15-18 ft-lb. and the 5.0l =in/manifold=24ft-lb,cyl.head=stp1:30ft-lb stp2: 50ftlb,stp3: +90 degrees, ex/manifold=30 ft-lb

Oct 09, 2009 | 1992 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

Gettting the intake plenum off a 02 freelander


My 2002 Land Rover Freelander V6 thermostat crapped out as well and I decided to replace it myself.

The plenum is deceptive, but after 3 hours of looking and trying I finally got it off. Of course there are many hoses and electrical connections that need to be removed, but that's the easy part because you can see them all. The bolts that hold on the plenum are what your worried about and I will now tell you where they are. Read this and you should take about 30min to remove the plenum.

There are a total of 6 bolts to be removed that secure the intake plenum to the intake manifolds.

First remove the 4, 10mm large and obvious bolts at the top of the plenum. Now here is the tricky part, there are 2 bolts that are at the back of the plenum near the fire wall. As you are looking at the intake plenum from the front of the car, they are on the back side of the plenum near the fire wall on the passenger and driver side of the intake plenum.

Both bolts your looking for are 8mm bolts. If you remove a 10mm bolt, your removing the bolts that secure the rear spark plug coils.

The driver side rear intake plenum 8mm bolt is secured to the plenum itself. Fell with your hand about the back of the plenum on the right side for a lone bolt that is in the plenum with a metal tab that goes down to the back of the rear cylinder head. Remove the bolt that is attached to the intake plenum, not on the rear cylinder head

The passenger side one is a bit different. Feel on the back of the intake plenum about the passenger side for a metal support tab that comes down from the intake plenum and secures to the rear cylinder head. Where the support tab attaches to the head is a 8mm bolt that you remove.

Now here come the leap of faith. If you have the 4, 10mm obvious bolts removed and the 2, 8mm from the rear of the plenum removed, and if you can rock the plenum up and down about 2-3 inches,but it still feels like its attached to the intake manifolds in the middle of the engine, then you have removed all the bolts that secure the intake plenum to the engine. This is good.

The intake plenum is now being held on by the rear intake manifold by 3 O-ring gaskets. Push onto the back of the intake plenum near the firewall to expose a gap at the front of the intake plenum at the front intake manifold. Put 2-3 long flat screwdrivers into the gap or a small pry bar, and ever so gently but forcefully, apply prying force as to not damage the mating surface of the aluminum intake manifold, until the intake plenum pops off. It will just POP off.

Now that the intake plenum is popped off, take careful note of all the electrical plugs and hoses as to where they attach. You will not need any tools to disconnect the electrical plugs or hoses. To remove the hoses, push down the red ring with you fingers that the hose goes into and pull on the hose, it should come out very easily. The electrical connectors, push on the metal clip down and pull the connector loose. The electrical connectors only plug into their own plug, so you cant mess them up.

Tools you will need to replace the thermostat;

1. 8mm combo wrench. Make sure its not too long, shorter is better.
2. 10mm socket, shallow. 10mm combo wrench
3. 2-3 flat screwdrivers, for prying off the intake plenum
4. Ratchet wrench
5. 1 foot long worth of socket extensions. 2 6inch extensions will work as well
6. Universal socket joint
7. Angled needle nose pliers make it easier for hose clap removal, but straight needle nose pliers will work
8. Diagonal cutters to cut securing zip ties for the wiring harness

Take you time, once the plenum is off it goes pretty smooth after that. We removed just the forward intake manifold and that was more than enough clearance to remove the thermostat. You do not need to remove the fuel rail or spark plug coils from the manifold but you will need to disconnect the electrical connections to move the intake manifold out of the way.


Take pictures, there's a lot of hoses that go all over the place. The electrical connectors are only long enough to go where their supposed to go.

Then take that UK piece of **** to the dealer and trade it in for anything made in the USA or Japan. Changing a thermostat in any of those will only take 10 min and require 1 tool.

Repair provided by KPCYCLES.com of Honolulu, HI

Jun 24, 2009 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

Want to replace plugs and ignition wires on a 2004,V-6, 2.7l Tiberon


The air handler you describe is called the 'surge tank' (or I perfer to call it the intake manifold). This manifold must be removed to access the 'rear bank' of plugs & wires on the 2.7 lit V6. There are three or four 12 mm bolts on the rear side of this tank (you'll have to feel for them) and the others are directly under your nose up front down the center of the engine (two long 12mm, three short 12mm and two 12mm nuts. You will want to purchase a new gasket for this manifold (recommended because reused gaskets have been know to leak - rare - but happens). When you put it back together, start all the bolts/nuts finger loose first, do not tighten the rear bolts until after you have torqued the main center-line manifold bolts first ( I believe the torque is 14 to 17 ft lbs) If you don't do these first, you could crack/damage the manifold.

May 20, 2009 | Hyundai Motor 1999 Tiburon

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