Question about Jeep Liberty
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It probably will cost a few bucks to get the code reset, but you don't need to go to the dealership, most shops with a good scanner equipped for air bag code reading will be able to diagnose and reset the light. The most probable reason for the code is the battery being dead for a while, there is a capacitor in the airbag circuit to make sure the airbag can go off in a collision even if the battery disconnects itself in the process. There is a slim chance it might be something else but either way the shop should be able to tell you what the problem is, and get it fixed... But, just for fun, before doing all this, i'd disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to an hour and reconnect it back, some systems do effectively reset themselves this way.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
put the back of car on jack stands and secure the front tires so it does not roll and then remove the bolts off the back of the caliper there is normally two one at top and one at bottom and spray it with some kind of oil for rust and make sure you have the right size socket before you try to loosen them and once caliper is off and the old pads removed take one of the old pads and squeeze the piston on the caliper back in by using a "C" clamp and also remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder before you do this put the new ones back on and check the brake fluid and make sure it is full and then pump the brakes to make sure you have a good pedal also put some "No Squeak" brake stop on the back of the pads so they don't squeak they will have that where you buy the pads from
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
brake pedal switch, get a wire, unplug plug, bridge circuit and check lights.
plug and switch is high up on the brake pedal not normally easy to get to.
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
BEFORE you put the engine in you must convert it with your old engine's crankshaft position ring and it's pick-up sensor. This ring can ONLY be changed with the engine upside down and out of the car. All rods must be disconnected, all mains are part of a cast saddle that must be removed, the front engine covers and all the timing chains must be removed, and finally the crankshaft must be lifted out and the ring must be hammer-unscrewed (impact screw driver, but I forget now if the taper-headed screws are allen, hex, star or phillips). DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE HEADS. The ring is ENTIRELY different than the one the computer system on the 02 Liberty can recognize (this is what triggers your spark timing). Next is the magnetic pick up 'wheel' located on the front of the passenger's side of the over-head camshaft. This magnetic cup wheel triggers the '02 fuel injection system (don't un-magnetize it). Lastly, the '02 plastic intake manifold (w/ O rings for seals) for the '02 has an additional port, this is an easy swap-out. Mostly there are no gaskets- the finish is so fine they just use a factory sealer (comes in a tube). Buy it, it's cheap enough and it matches the factory's specs. Taking the engine back out/in is NOT fun, but with the engine on a stand, and with no time constraints it's managable (but still not fun). I made that exact engine swap myself and went through a lot of anguish learning all of this. By-the-by, these engines will NOT tolerate dirty oil. DO NOT EVER try and stretch out your oil changes, because they run really hot (due to the windage tray that prevents oil mist from coating the engine's internals) an ash will form and goop up the insides. The fine oil pick-up screen (drilled plate) will always clog up. If it's been a long time since the last change and your engine is still running fine, when you get around to putting in new high detergent oil it sorta un-sludges the goop and REALLY coats the pick-up. DEATH BY SUFFICATION. If you're ever at this point (no damage yet) I would suggest doing the oil change (before there's any knocking or signs the engine is failing) and I would do 2 more oil & filter changes @500 miles each; hopfully you'll dislodge the ash/sludge and get it out of the engine. Once damage has started it progresses very quickly- this engine is not very tolerant. Your oil will be gold color, and yet your enging will sieze because it can't 'get to it'. BEST OF LUCK- this is very do-able, but you might first investigate if you can swap out the engine management computor and wire harness and maybe avoid all of this above mentioned wrenching. No back ground info here, plus I didn't have access to the vehicle the 05 engine was snatched out of- sorry, and good luck again. One last bit of advice- I bought a zero miles engine from a National Highway Admin. crash/test vehicle. When I broke the engine down ALL the timing marks on all three chains were not aligned and had to ALL be set- I guess they might do that to prevent the parts from re-entering the 'system'? Or, some dumb s__t at the factory was new and/or pi__ed-off and this engine was just plopped in the donated/untitled crash vehicle rather than ripping it back apart and re-assembling it. The damn Jeep fired on the second crank and is running fine now (2 years later). Ciao4Now, Brian Fahey
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
SOURCE: 2000 Buick LeSabre A/C blows
Depending on the model, normally there is a door at the center of the air duct for the AC. It should be found underneath the dashboard at the center. Normally when the motor of the door is faulty you would not get the correct mix or will not get a constant air temp blowing on the two sides. Have the motor checked out. The other scenario is the thermostat or the temp sensor found near the same location towards the evaporator or the part where you can see the coils if you remove all the cover. Inspect the wiring to that part make sure that there is no exposed wire or loose wire. Either there is an issue with the wiring or the thermostat has gone bad. A bad thermostat would mean no signal to the AC which activates the door to send the correct air temp.
Posted on Apr 13, 2010
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