Question about 1999 GMC Suburban

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99 Suburban A/C Not working

Have a 99 Suburban
Jumped the clutch from battery and it kicks in
Getting correct voltage to low pressure switch but can't seem to "jump/bypass" the low pressure switch
all fuses OK
a/c relay OK
what on the compter could prevent me from jumping/bypassing the lop pressure switch to enagage the compressor?

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  • festpace1 May 23, 2009

    THX

    I'll look into those

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  • Master
  • 10,319 Answers

The A/C pressue switch may be bad as well. Also the mode switch on the control head inside the vehicle. There are many other exsisting problems pertaining to a/c. I suggest a manual from Auto Zone for many faults can be noted especially wiring can be at fault

Posted on May 23, 2009

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cant follow that. at all , sorry.
i dont need a good list
what i need is symptoms and test facts.
so fuse good to me means 12v on both sides of the fuse. (nothing else)
1: so, the list. heater fan on high works, always, does it?
2; The clutch is dead, great test, its #2 all the time.
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12v good, 0v on one side bad.
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My 2004 chevy 1500 v8 air compressor will not kick in. I have jumped the low pressure switch and the compressor will not come on. i have changed the temperature controller and still won't kick in. i...


If the compressor kick's in when you jumper the relay socket there is no problem with the electrical to the compressor an the compressor isn't locked up . You have a control side problem , the PCM - engine computer is suppose to energize the relay if no other problems are present . The proper way to check this would be to hook up a scan tool an check pressure input's to the PCM an is the PCM getting a request from the HVAC control panel to turn on the A/C compressor . AutoZone is wrong as usual , There can be codes without the check engine light being on . o'reilly's is wrong as well DTC P0530 (LU3, LR4, LM7, LQ4 and L18)
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Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) will not illuminate.
Diagnostic Aids
The air conditioning (A/C) compressor clutch will not engage under the following conditions:
• The A/C high side line pressure is over 2957 kPa (429 psi).
• The A/C low side line pressure is under 138-172 kPa (20-25 psi).
• Throttle angle is at 100 percent.
• Engine speed is more than 5500 RPM.
• Engine coolant temperature (ECT) is more than 121°C (250°F).
• Ambient air temperature is less than 5°C (40°F).
• Engine is idling at a low unstable RPM
Compressor clutch engagement cannot be used to determine status of the low pressure switch. The low pressure switch is one of several inputs to the HVAC control module for A/C request authorization. A/C request is one of several inputs to the powertrain control module (PCM) that control A/C compressor clutch engagement.
To accurately determine what pressure the A/C low pressure switch opens and closes at use Kent Moore GE-47742 which will allow the technician to measure the switch point pressure at the switch.
Using a scan tool, monitor the "low pressure switch" status while monitoring the "low side" pressure at the switch to determine the switch points of the low pressure switch.
The low pressure switch "connector seal" must be removed before plugging it into the switch for testing. The "plunger effect" of plugging the connector with seal into the switch induces a pressure on the back side of the switch, this pressure will skew the opening/closing characteristics of the switch 5-10 psi until the pressure bleeds off. The time required for the connection induced pressure to bleed off can take 20 minutes or longer

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Disconnect the AC compressor clutch connector and using a 12 V bulb with 2 wires (test lamp) check the following:

1.- connect 1 lamp wire to battery neg; with the other check both pins at connector with the AC in the RUN (AC and ignition switch on ) you should have power in one side.

2.- connect 1 lamp wire to battery positive and with the other check both pins at connector, lamp should light getting the ground from the clutch connector thru the high pressure compressor switch to ground.

On the other side what makes the relay close and let the power flow to the clutch works with the low pressure switch, (if the freon pressure is too low it opens and kills the ground to the relay coil and that kills the compressor), that low pressure switch is in the low pressure side of the freon tubing, the fat pipe that comes from inside the firewall into the accumulator/dryer, a big aluminum cylinder sitting on the right side of the engine compartment in GM cars.

To know if the low press switch is the cause you can unplug it and connect both legs with a paper clip for a minute or two, no more, you don't want to damage the compressor. anyway if jumping the switch makes the compressor come alive and kick in, you either have low freon pressure or a bad switch; it's time for the pressure gauges and check how the compressor is pumping and that is better left to a pro.

By the way you said that your system is a R-12 system, have you considered switching to R-134a the new "ozone friendly" freon? to do that you need to evacuate the system with a recycling machine and pull vacuum in your AC, if it holds the vacuum for a while, then you can be sure that there are not leaks and then dump 1.5 or 2 pound (check the labels in the engine compartment) of R-134a into your system. it will be a good idea to put some fluorescent leak detecting dye in the system to check for leaks, just in case..

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