I need a diagram for the rear brakes on my 306 ,i dont know how to put the little clips on

Your year--make--model didn't post for some reason? That info would help.
You needed to check voltage and ground for the system, before you replaced anything. I realize it takes a little longer plus you need a wiring diagram, but, it prevents needlessly replacing parts. All you need to check voltage and ground is a test-light, basically.
Do you have a high-mount brake lamp, does it work?

it has little grooves arount the opening where the hose fits on to,around the point of the hose opening it has a o-ring,put a verry little grease on the o-ring and just clip it over the nossle on the radiator where it should go,you should heare a clicking sound

Adjustment: 1) Start the engine and shift to Reverse. With the vehicle moving backwards, firmly depress the brake pedal several times to seat the shoes in the brake drum. Turn engine off. 2) Remove the console trim surrounding the parking brake lever. This isn't really necessary if you have a deep socket and extension. 3) Pull up on brake lever until the seventh notch is engaged, just listen and count the clicks. 4) If it is out of adjustment and you can't get the seven clicks, turn the adjusting nut located on the drivers side next to the lever. 5) Release the lever, block the front wheels, raise the rear end. Best to put on jackstands. 6) With car in neutral and brake lever released, rotate the rear wheels. The wheels should turn freely, but a slight drag is acceptable. 7) If the lever travels too far or the parking brake fails to hold the vehicle on a hill, tighten the adjusting nut a little more and recheck,

here you go

you have bought as pig in a poke ,yes 3 clicks is right on handbrake ,but its easy to do just remove the rear drums and adjust brakes manually,half hours work thats all ,but it would still pass mot because its on the rolling road brake tester and both rear brakes were within 25%,But as for it breaking down i cannot say without my dirty oil encrusted fingers playing with its vitals .but if your passing alicante spain i will have a look for you

OK I did this recently, lift and support rear, remove wheels, place drain tray under centre of axel, remove rear cover (dont worry you dont have to touch the bearings or settings) take the truck out of park and select neutral. turn the large gear (crownwheel) until you see one 10 mm bolt head, unscrew this bolt, turn the crownwheel a bit more and drop out the 1/2" pin this bolt held in. you can now tap the hubs in a little and slide out a horseshoe clip that retains the shaft, pull out the shaft and change the dust shield (they can be had after market cheaply) slide the shaft back in, do other side, re fit the horseshoe clips and pull the shafts out until the clip is inside its recess,slide in the 1/2" pin, you might need to move the little gears that run on this pin with a bit of stiff wire or little finger untill the pin slides home, align the bolt hile with a small screwdriver and fit 10 mm bolt, new gasket, fit cover and new oil, fit brakes etc and wheels. get back if you get stuck.

You really need to know what you are doing and the tools to do it correctly. I dont know what kind of diagram you will need. sometimes the universal joints are locked in with plastic, and will need to be heated in order to replace them.

remove the door panel from the inside,it might be a little tricky,but you can put the window back on track with a little patience. Most have a clip that holds the window into place,that could be broken,or missing.If so then you should replace the clip as well or it will continue to fall off.

I think you are mean the anti-rattle clips. They go on the anchor plate that holds the pads in place. If you need more information, let me know, I will try to find a diagram for you, or explain the proper position of the clips.

you might have the brake shoes adjusted out too much, back them off a little bit and far as the sensor goes, its located on the fuel rail where the injectors are.