This has only happened once. It would not let me go faster than 27 MPH. If I tried it just reved up the engine. It felt like it would not shift into the next gear, but it also would not go faster than 27 mph. It was weird. If I tried the car would kinda lurch. No noises or clunking sounds. I pulled over after 1 mile and turned the car off, waited 10 mins and after that it was fine. I have driven it a few times since, although much softer on my acceleration. Have tried to get it to do it again with no luck. Took it to O'Reilly and used the code reader. I had these codes: P0440, P0441, P0456, P0340, P0344. Any ideas on what may be going on? Transmission fluid is great, gets regular oil changes, tried replacing gas cap for the P0441 code, no luck. Any help would be appreciated.
The P0340 and P0344 are referring to the camshaft position sensor circuit. 0340 says the circuit is lost, and 0344 says the circuit is intermittent-when you had trouble, the circuit was not made, then it came back so you could drive normally. This must be why it won't rev up right, why you could only go 27 mph. Try unplugging and replugging that sensor. If problem continues, have a tech check it out-it is not the sensor but in the circuit-check the connector good for a problem. Has any moisture got into it, or any discolored pins or terminals inside the connector? Possible also there may be a bad wire there or going from there to the computer.
The other codes all refer to the evaporative system: 0440 is system malfunction, 0441 is evap. emission control system incorrect purge flow (from your charcoal canister to the intake manifold), and 0456 is EVAP leak monitor small leak detected.
For small leaks in the evaporative system, shops often resort to a smoke test-putting smoke into the system and watching for a leak. It could be anywhere on the car between the gas tank and the charcoal canister and the vacuum line or the purge to or from the engine. If you can find the charcoal canister you might check the purge line-the line from the canister to the intake manifold. Look for cracks or breaks in the rubber hose-flex and bend it to expose a leak. If you can't find it, you may need a shop's help-it won't affect driveability, that small leak, but it will always have the trouble codes until fixed, and it may cause your engine light to come on often.
Good luck.
SOURCE: oil pump quits when transmission kicks down or heavy acceleration
I have only seen this happen once in my entire life...as it happens it was to one of my own cars (also a chrysler product) Normally if asked I'd say that oil pumps don't fail. BUT, it is possible that the drive gear on the pump has become just loose enough on the shaft that when pumping hard, it will spin slower and result in the conditions you mentioned. To test it you need to actually take the pump apart and put the shaft in a vise and try to turn the gear with a pair of waterpump pliers
Bottom line is: change the pump.
SOURCE: codes
The first two were not listed in the file that I have, the third has to do with evaporative emission control has a small leak. The first two seem to be other codes having to do with the same area. Check the hoses and fittings at the fuel tank area for leaking or damage for the vent system. Check the fuel entry to tank hose and fittings. Locate (underneath the body) and check the charcoal canister for cracked case, loose or damaged fittings. Clear the light with the scanner and see if other codes show up. Are there any obvious problems other than fuel vapor leaks?
SOURCE: Transmission slipping in drive and transmission whining.
SOUND LIKE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING.CHECK THE TRANSMISSION FLUID MAKE SURE ITS NOT LOW.ALSO IF TRANSMISSION FLUID LOOKS DIRTY DARK AND SMELLS BAD REPLACE FLUID AND FILTER.IF FLUID IS GOOD YOU HAVE.TRANSMISSION OIL PUMP AND FORWARD CLUTCH PROBLEMS.
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