Cranks but dont start

This already sounds all kinds of bad.
Lets start with spark. Did you verify it can make 30kv at all plugs while cranking? f you havent...start there. Do you have any codes in any modules? Engine, theft, trans, body?
Do you have vacuum cranking, do you have MAF reading cranking? do we know if its mechanically still in time? Did you do a cranking compression test? If you have spark, and you remove the fuel pump relay...does it start when it isnt flooding? What is your system and reference voltage...what is cranking vacuum? And what tests did you run that inspired changing all that stuff? Check the c ranking rpm in Generic mode just rpm onscreen, some OEM software doesnt update well during cranking, with one pid selected, solus should update better than 10x a sec, If you still have no signal...you need to measure the crank sensor wires or verify the crank sensor ring is even turning,

hit the fuel pump rest switch it cuts spark and pump

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/james_1cb31da1bc8c6102

cant figure out your post at all !
"When my car will not start it only growls & never roars/never turns over."
it either cranks robustly nor not
then and only the can it start, run
cranks
starts
runs
or maybe stalls
the dealer can fix it , if you demo it and it works.
its not broken then.
if it cranks correctly every time ,say so
that is a failed engine start.
if engine stalls, say so.
if rpm on the engine is real low, too low, say so.

the word turns over means nothing, Im sorry
1/2 say, it means cranking
other 1/2 means its running,
the order is
cranks, starts, runs , and keeps running or stalls.
btw if it stalls, its needs a tuneup'
get one in last decade, (sparks filters)
my guess growls is starter sounds
so if it starter works try cranking with throttle wide open
this is super secret unflood mod. it cuts fuel and clears flooding.
Good engines that fail to start are
bad spark plugs
flooding
starving for fuel.
we discount them 1 by one until. bingo

you have spark at the plugs ..thats something

spray stay you mug
into the throttle body see if the motor will cough

tank needs draining and have fresh fuel
fuel pump has a filter and fuel relay

crack the fuel line connection to the rail to see if there is fuel reaching the rail and correct pressure

if sitting 6 years.. not being run regularly
do a compression test
lifters may be stuck
rings may have lost tension

Before you threw a bunch of parts at it maybe you should at least see if it has spark. If it doesn't have spark then the crank sensor and coil pack would be appropriate. If it is not getting fuel then the fuel pump, filter, etc. would be the way to go. So see if there is spark, do this by pulling a spark plug and see if there is spark out the end with it plugged into the wire and cranking it over. If there is spark put all this back together and squirt some fuel into the throttle body while cranking it over, if it tries to start but doesn't try to start on its own without squirting fuel in it then the fuel pump is bad. How many miles on it? Possibly the cam timing is off. Maybe take a compression check and see if the cam is out of time.

It's very likely your fuel pump has failed. Have somebody thump on the fuel tank while you're cranking the engine and see if it starts. If it does, replace the fuel pump. Otherwise get your fuel pressure checked, and check for spark. If no spark, check to make sure the distributor is turning(if applicable) If a 3.3 motor with no spark, suspect the crank sensor or cam sensor. Crank sensor is much easier to replace if experimenting.

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Hi,

My name is Ben and I'm your guru, i.e., mentor, an influential teacher or popular expert: a management guru. - origin from Sanskrit, 'weighty, grave' for today.

As you evaluate my advise.solutions and suggestions, there are a few things you must keep in mind:

• I did not diagnose your problem and am therefore only able to evaluate what you tell me. For example, if you ask me a fuse location, that doesn't mean that I can tell you the reason why the fuse blew.
• A thorough diagnostic approach involves the use of technical equipment, such as voltage meters. scanning equipment and other sophisticated devices. Diagnostic tools can be borrowed from AutoZone for FREE:
• Lastly, fixing one problem can very easily reveal a problem with something that you might consider unrelated. If that happens, you might want to view me as being incompetent.

Subject: Engine will not start

Customer's exact description: I crank but doesn't start.With starting fluid does.Have gas in the fuel rail went cranking.I suspect the ecm,but doesn't sure

Discussion: The customer sggests a bad ECM but a code scan or code reader analysis will determine the true cause. A new ECM is going to cost in the neighborhood of $200-$300 but this would be a waste of money at this initial stage. The advice provided below is all inclusive but please do a complete code scan. Unfortunately, the customer has not supplied the make, model and year of the vehicle.

Possible Problem Hardware: Fuel pump; Fuel filter; Fuel pressure sensor, Faulty theft deterrent sysestem; or, Camshaft sensor.


This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter, a bad fuel pressure regulator or water in the fuel tank. Anyone who tells you that a modern vehicle can be diagnosed with the problems you have set forth is merely guessing. You car has a computer and memory and probably knows exactly what the problem is. That on-board computer is just waiting for you to ask, "

Immediately check the fuel pressure at the manifold, You should get a steady reading between 42 and 50 P.S.I. Autozone will loan you a pressure gauge. Yes, no charge.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but remember that AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures therefore apply to most cars.

Step 1: Remember that anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.

The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner



Ben

No this does not affect the fuel pump. It will affect the spark though. Hit the gas tank in the center a few times. If it starts then replace the fuel pump. Unfortunetly pumps with a few yaers on them will die when ran out of gas. If it doesn't start pull one of the spark plug wires, insert a screwdriver and put it close to the engine. crank the engine and watch for a spark. if there is no spark then replace the crank shaft sensor. before you replace the fuel pump.

It won't die when pulling the relay because it has another power path to the fuel pump through the oil pressure switch . Fuel Pump Electrical Circuits Description and Operation watch this video on fuel pump control , shows chrysler first , ford ,then gm . wait for gm an he explains the oil pressure switch . Plus when it won't start ,don't guess or theorize ! Test what's missing ? check for spark , no spark check ignition system , coil's , ignition module , crank sensor etc... has spark ,do a fuel pressure test etc... don't think computer , when it won't start does the check engine light come on with the key on run not start . If light is lit ,nothing wrong with the cumputer . If want to fix cars you really should take some automotive classes . Test don't guess .Watch some other videos crank no start videos etc...

could very well be a faulty sensor, leaky vaccum hose, bad coil packs, needing of new fuel filter, spark plugs, wires.

Have you checked your fuel pressure to make sure it is good. You can do this with fuel pressure tester on the fuel rail.

Also check every cylinder for spark
If you don't have any spark, or very weak spark, you could have bad coil pack, module, or crank sensor.

You can remove one plug at a time, and place it back on plug wire, place it on top of engine block, have someone else turn motor over well you observe to see if there is spark.

Do you have a service or check engine light on? If so, I would have the engine codes read to pinpoint exact problem area.

Let me know if you have any questions or need further help