How do you stop engine from moving when loosening or torquring cr

Removing the engine crank pulley bolt requires a high amount of applied torque and often results in turning the engine before the bolt can be loosened. The safest way to keep the engine from turning is a follows: remove a spark plug and feed a length of clothes line rope into the cylinder until it can take no more of the rope. At this point you will be able to apply the amount of torque you need to loosen the bolt safely and the engine will no longer move while you are applying torque because the cylinder will come in contact with the cushion of rope and stop turning, preventing any risk of damage to your engine. This will work nicely with any engine and with any number of cylinders.

Use a 1/2" impact air gun, to remove the crank bolt

You could try putting air into a cylinder, with the adapter
for a compression or leak down gauge,doubt it will work

Make a tool to hold the crank damper with damaging it
or rent one

Take the starter off and wedge a block of wood or a pry bar against the ring gear teeth on the flywheel. That would hold the crankshaft steady. Are you using a good stout breaker bar to try and loosen the bolt? If you have access to an impact gun, that is what shops often use. Any friends or neighbors with an impact tool? If you can drive the car to a shop, you could have them loosen it for you, then tighten it just enough to get you back home to finish working on it.
Here is a method I have used and it works great, but do it at your own risk, it is not recommended: With the car on the ground, use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and socket on the bolt. The end of the bar needs to be resting on the ground, and situated so that when the starter is bumped over-just a quick bump of the starter-the engine crankshaft turns just a little bit, but the breaker bar will keep the bolt from turning with the crank-it will loosen the bolt. Just one quick bump from the starter and I was able to loosen the pulley bolt on a Chrysler this way. Lots of DIY mechanics have done this, but as I said, not recommended. But if carefully done, and breaker bar is situated in right position-it will loosen the bolt. Post back if you don't understand. Good luck.

here is the trick. Use a long screwdriver to pry between 2 of the bolts to hold the pulley while you loosen another bolt with a box-end wrench. Only loosen the bolt--do not remove it, so that it can be used as leverage to loosen the rest of the bolts. Do this for each bolt until they are all loose. OK?

Assuming this is a XG 350, the process is lengthly.
1. Remove the RH radiator cooling fan (two 10mm bolts at the top & wiring harness connector to it).
2. Lift vehicle to remove the Right Front wheel (then remove 4 10mm bolts securing the plastic splash shield & remove it)
3. Loosen the 14mm nut on the alternator belt tensioner pully
4. Loosen the tension on the belt by rotating (counter-clockwise) the 14mm bolt at the bottom of the idler pully and remove the belt.
5. remove the pully & the idler pully (three 12 mm bolts)
6. Loosen the 14mm nuts at the top and bottom mounting points of the alternator.
7. Using a floor jack (or vehicle lift), support the engine using a jack-stand & 2x4 piece of wood under the oil pan.
8. This is tricky - lift the engine 'SLIGHTLY' to take pressure off the front engine mount - loosen the 17 mm nut on top of the mount itself and observe engine movement. If the engine moves upward 'slightly' remove the 17mm nut - if not, raise the engine slight more until you see the mounting bracket rise off the mount.
9. Remove the remaining 17mm nut (deep well socket), and two 17mm bolts and remove the engine mount bracket.
10. Here's another tricky step. Some 350's bottom Alternator bolt bores are 'SLOTTED'... some are NOT. You'll need to determine wether you'll need to REMOVE the lower bolt, or just loosen the mounting sleeve at the bottom bolt. If it's 'sleeved', I use an air hammer to loosen the sleeve. If it's not slotted, I remove the lower bolt (it's the only way to remove the alternator and pry it off).
11. At the top is an "L" bracket which uses two 12mm bolts to attach it to the engine (head). One of the two 12mm bolts is difficult to get to -- do your best to remove it because the battery cable to the alternator is in the way.
12. Disconnect the alternator wiring (battery cable & regulator harness connector)
13. Lift the engine as high as it will go & pry the alternator off its lower mounting.
14. manuver the alternator upward taking care not to damage the radiator.
15. Installation is in reverse order.
NOTE: If your XG's lower mounting point was slotted, your task is easy. If it isn't, your task now becomes more difficult as you must align the new alternator to facillitate re-insertion of the lower bolt.
PS If not slotted, I use a telliscoping magnet to help re-insert the lower bolt.

First remove all. Power-steering pump 3 bolts on cylinder head. Loosen the alternator. remove the two belts. Underneath the car. remove black wheel arch plastic cover (6 or 7screws) Loosen the air con pump tension-er pully. Remove belt. put a trolley jack under engine as the mounting needs to be removed and lift the engine slightly. Remove the engine mounting bolts next to the black cam belt cover and remove the mounting. Loosen the Main crank shaft pulley. Normally very tight put a power bar and socket on. engine turns forward so let the bar rest on X member and turn the key only so that the engine turns. do not start. Remove cam belt covers (comes in to parts - top and bottom) then loosen the tension pulley which is on the left. 1 x bolt in middle. remove cam belt. now the tricky part. Replace the bottom crack pulley. turn so that the marks are lining up. the cam pulley has got a small hole in turn the hole upward to the top of engine. there is a small dot on the cylinder head which can be seen through the hoe. line up. replace idle pulley on the right. replace tension pulley on the left. put new belt on and now to tension the belt. take a number 5 or 6 allen key and turn the tension er clock wise until its like a watch at 10 min to the hour. tighten the bolt. test belt with fingers. if belt to loose you will feel the belt move easily. belt must not be to hard when pressed. try to turn the belt with fingers half a turn if going passed the halfway mark tighten some more. Use power bar and ensure engine turns properly meaning two or three full turns with hands without it getting stuck. otherwise the valve and piston is toughing. if so do crank turn of 180 degrease. free turn again. should be right. replace all that was taken off. start car. if belt tension is to tight you will hear a signing sound.

hi from uk fortunately the water pump on your car is not driven by cambelt ! the pump is driven by serp belt the pumps location is = if you look at front of engine view from front wing as you look down front you will see a large pully on left of cambelt covers and this is the water pump access to pump is best by supporting car and removing wheel and then the under wing cover that is secured by screws some advice for you if you intend renewing pump the pump pully is secured by 4 bolts use a 10 mm cranked ring spanner or socket loosen these bolts before you remove the drivebelt as belt holds pully and helps to prevent pully turning as you try to loosen these bolts hope this helps ?

loosen tentioner pully belt... using a 14 mm wrench, release tension on the belt by loosening the 14mm bolt. when loose enough, remove belt.. then install NEW belt.. adjust tension on new belt then tighten 14mm bolt on tensioner pully... you're done.

The crank pulley bolt on most Honda engines are very difficult to loosen. Most 1/2" impact guns are just are not strong enough to loosen them. The choice is yours to either use a 3/4" impact gun, the bolt is left losey, righty tighte

First job is to remove the 4 bolts securing the Intercooler, Its not totaly necessary to remove, but makes it a lot easier to get to the pullies.

Remove the 4 Bolts and move the Intercooler to the left hand side of the engine

Loosen off the locking bolt on the centre of the pully and then loosen the adjuster bolt until belt slackens

Loosen off the forward facing locking bolt and then loosen the adjuster bolt (Hidden behind the top hose) until belt slackens

You should now be able to remove all the belts and replace as required.

On refitting the belts adjust as required and then do up the locking bolts, refit Intercooler and check all connections (you wouldn't like the intercooler fan to fail

Its as easy as that, Good luck and not be held responsible for any 'misfortunes' in carry out the job like breaking out in to a sweat.