Codes say misfire #5. it only happens when the car is cold, after about 7-10 min of driving it drives nornal.
What have you checked so far ?
You need spark at the right time, fuel to the injector, and normal compression for the cylinder to produce power.
Could be a spark plug, injector, or several other things.
SOURCE: 96 lexus es 300 blinking check engine light
Hi there;
#4 Miss-fire. All the things you are saying make a lot of sense. When the light is blinking the cylinder is actualy misfiring, & the smell you are smelling is the fuel that is not burning in the engine burning in the exahst. This can cause a lot of damage to the exausht if it is not repaired..
There is still a couple of things that need to be checked, first he needs to check to see if it is possibly a fuel injector that is sticking. He can do this easily by moving the #4 injector to another cylinder & run the car. When it starts missfiring he will need to see if it is still #4 or if it is the cylinder that he moved the injector to. if it is the new cylinder it is obviously the injector, if it is still #4 he will need to look into the possibility of the EGR valve sticking open or some other issue to do with valve timing or low compression.
I hope this helps
Farrout!
SOURCE: cylinders misfire for 99 lexus ES300
no, this is a fuel quality poor or water momentany, make this test: disconnect the negative battery terminal few minutes and reconnect,run the engine, drive and check
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SOURCE: My 2001 Lexus LS430 was misfiring, riding rough,VSC light is on
go to auto zone, advanced autoparts, or a certified mechanic and ask if they can reset the codes, it should be free
SOURCE: 98 lexus gs300 codes p1120 p1121
I wanted to start a thread specifically about failures within the throttle body concerning the GS300 (1998 in my case)
My symptons were:
VSC, VSC OFF, and ENGINE Lights would come on, followed by my car going into Limp Mode, where only that last 25% (if that) of the throttle would respond (basically have to floor the pedal to even move at all).
During the mornings, or when the engine was COLD, the throttle operated normal...then once the car warmed up, usually at about 10 mins, the problem would start...it happened intermitantly at first...1 or 2 days over the course of a week, then it became more consitent, until last week it became a daily problem.
The first part I tried was the Throttle Position sensor, which is on the front side of the throttle body, and the easiest thing to replace...this didnt help at all. $300 part from Lexus, $80 part from RockAuto.com (exacly same part toyota OEM)
THE PART THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM:
===========================================
"Idle Valve Motor", which is the larger electrical object next to the TPS on my 98 GS300. Problem is solved.
The Codes I got were P1120 and P1121 - Accelerator Sensor problem. However it wasnt really the Accelerator Sensor, it was indeed to actual electrical Motor that controls the opening of the Butterfly valve inside the Throttle body.
I found the problem by good old trouble shooting, and using an ohm meter to see if the throttle electric motor was getting elev, I found that the elec motor just to the left of the TPS was basically freaking out and shutting down. The Accelerator Pedal Sensor is on the Back-side of the throttle body where the throttle cable connects to, and has a spring on it. It was fine.
GS300's are indeed "drive by wire" concerning the throttle...the cable triggers the Accel Pedal Sensor, which sends a signal to the ECU, the ECU then sends power to the Idel Valve Elec Motor (next to the TPS), which opens and closes the mechanical butterfly valve, then the TPS sensor detects how far the elec motor is actually opening the butterfly valve...its a closed-loop feed-back system, meaning any failure in any sensor will cause the entire systm to fail.
The throttle cable apparently is ONLY there to allow the fail-safe of having that last 10-25% throttle when the electronic system fails...there is a gearbox inside the throtle body which allows the tail end of the throttle to manually engage the butterfly valve...the rest of the time, the butterfly valve is 100% opened and closed via the idle control motor.
SOURCE: ES300 Lexus cylinder misfiring
well a compression test will tell you if the engines internal components are working properly and it is critical you start there when having a problem like this.
testing the injectors will let you know if they are giving fuel to the engine. there are two test for the injector and first one you do is an electrical test to see if they are getting turned on and off as they are supposed to and it they are internaly good electricaly with is done by listening to them with a stethoscope to see if you here the clicking sound the pintle valve makes inside of them. then there is the test to see if there spraying fuel or leaking fuel witch is called a leak down test and is done with a fuel pressure guage and a tester that will electrical turn the individual ijector on to see how much pressure it drops.
this is what i would do if i had it in my shop.
let me know if you have any more question and that you understood what i described.
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