Where is the heater core located at on a 2009 dodge journey and how do i replace it

Marvin

• 85242 Answers
• Posted on Mar 25, 2009

SOURCE: 2002 DODGE 2WD HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT

first off, disconnect your battery for at least 30 min before touching any plugs or harnesses. next, bleed your A/C and disconnect the quick connects that go inside the firewall. drain your coolant, and disconnect hoses from firewall. note a certain bolt with nut on it that is going to the inside of the firewall, you'll need to take that off when you get to the airbox inside the truck which houses your heater core. next, take off the pillar handles next to the windshield, then pop off the plastic dash panel with defroster vents. there are a few bolts up there that need to be taken out all the way across. next, take off your glove box. remove plastic below the drink carrier. there are 2 bolts there on left and right once you remove the plastic. there's a yellow or red AirBag plug which you may or may not need to disconnect later. next, drop down the whole steering wheel column. 4 bolts I believe. look up under there on both sides, you will see a 2inch piece of tubing that goes from each side of the truck. your dash and everything you see in front of you is connected to that tube. find on each side of the truck where that tube is mounted to the body with brackets. There are 2-3 bolts on each side I think. When you get those out, and the steering wheel is sitting in the seat or on the floor, the whole dash and panel should tilt and lay on the seats. there are wires from your a/c controls and radio which you'll have to disconnect and some various other wires as well. I also think you'll have to disconnect a harness plug with bolt in it on the drivers side. (white) after you've done all that and don't have the dash and panel in a bind with wire hangups you can now get to the air box. I don't remember how many bolts, but don't forget the one in the engine bay going to it also. get the box unbolted, then roll it up, remove 2 clips holding the heater core in, replace heater core and do this whole process backwards. Hopefully you didn't lose any screws or bolts. charge your a/c, replace coolant, make sure all plugs are connected before connecting power. Should save you $400-$500 in labor.

SOURCE: 1999 dodge durango heater core

It's a big job. Drain the coolant down, recover the freon in the ac system and disconnect the lines and heater hoses. Lower the steering column, remove the instrument panel assembly, remove the heater housing. Split the case halves on the housing and there you are. Usually around 500 to 700 dollars at a dealership.

SOURCE: Need to replace the heater core in a 1995 Dodge Grand Caravan SE

1991-95 Models

1. Disable the air bag system by disconnecting the negative battery cable.
2. Have the system discharged by a qualified professional mechanic using an approved recovery/recycling machine.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Remove the steering column cover and left and right side under panel silencers.
5. Remove the center bezel by unclipping it from the instrument panel.
6. Remove the accessory switch carrier and the heater/air conditioning control head.
7. Remove storage bin and lower right instrument panel.
8. Disconnect the blower motor lead under the right side of the instrument panel.
9. Remove the right side 40-way connector wiring bracket.
10. Remove the lower right reinforcement, body computer bracket and mid-to-lower reinforcement as an assembly.
11. Disconnect the vacuum lines at the brake booster and water valve.
12. Clamp off the heater hoses near the heater core and remove the hoses from the core tubes. Plug the hose ends and the core tubes to prevent spillage of coolant.
13. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the H-valve and condensation tube.
14. Disconnect the temperature control cable and vacuum harness at the connection at the top of the unit.
15. Remove the retaining nuts from the package mounting studs at the firewall. Disconnect the hanger strap from the package and rotate it aside.

1. Remove the temperature control door from the unit and clean the unit out with solvent. Lubricate the lower pivot rod and its well and install. Wrap the heater core and/or evaporator with foam tape and place in position. Secure with the screws.
2. Assemble the unit, making sure all vacuum tubes are properly routed.
3. Install the assembly to the vehicle and connect the vacuum harness. Install the nuts to the firewall and install the condensation tube. Fold the carpeting back into position.
4. Connect the hanger strap from the package and rotate it aside. Install the 2 brackets supporting the lower edge of the heater housing. Connect the blower motor wiring, resistor wiring and the temperature control cable.
5. Install the retaining screws from the right side to the steering column. Install the instrument panel trim covering and reinforcement.
6. Assemble the unit, making sure all vacuum tubes are properly routed.
7. Install the assembly to the vehicle and connect the vacuum harness. Install the nuts to the firewall and install the condensation tube. Fold the carpeting back into position.
8. Connect the hanger strap from the package and rotate it aside. Connect the blower motor wiring and temperature control cable.
9. Install the lower right reinforcement, body computer bracket and mid-to-lower reinforcement as an assembly.
10. Install the right side 40-way connector wiring bracket.
11. Install the lower right instrument panel and storage bin.
12. Install the heater/air conditioning control head and accessory switch carrier.
13. Install the center bezel to the instrument panel.
14. Install the under panel silencers and steering column cover.
15. Install the vacuum lines at the brake booster and water valve.
16. Connect the heater hoses to the core tubes.
17. Using new gaskets, install the H-valve and connect the refrigerant lines. Install the condensation tube.
18. Have the system evacuated and recharged by a qualified professional mechanic, utilizing the proper equipment. Add 2 fl. oz. (59 ml) of refrigerant oil during the recharge. Fill the cooling system.
19. Perform the Air Bag System Check procedures outlined in this section before connecting the negative battery cable.
20. Connect the negative battery cable and check the entire climate control system for proper operation and leaks.

Mike Butler

• 6674 Answers
• Posted on Oct 05, 2009

SOURCE: My heater in my 99 dodge durango does not heat

This is provided you have confirmed that a plugged or partially plugged heater core is your problem, and not a vacuum problem, or heater control valve or similar is not defective. Yes it certainly sounds like some blockage/restriction there, but may I advise you to try this first, as it may save a lot of money, time, & aggravation. Go to Rona, Home depot, or similar hardware store & buy a drill pump. (about $25.00 in Canada) but there are cheaper ones around.
Remove your heater hoses at the firewall (when engine cold) and you will see the 2 copper ends of your heater core to attach drill pump to. Put one end of the pump (pressure side) on one fitting, of the core and the other hose from pump suction side, into a jug of CLR (calcium ,lime, rust, remover.) The other connection/fitting from your heater core will need a piece of hose going from it, into a pail, or another jug, same size as CLR to retrieve liquid when it flows through. Circulate the CLR through the core a few times, then let it sit in the core for a while. Then reverse the hoses at the core & circulate it through the other way a few times & let it sit in there as well. I let mine fill the core, then I plugged line where CLR would flow out of heater core & then let it sit all night in there to dissolve as much calcium etc., inside as it could. Then next day, I ran pump in both directions/fittings, again to flush everything out. Then I re-attached my heater hoses. My heat increased at least 75% at idle, because it had removed a lot of the restriction in the core.
Make sure you take all safety precautions, such as eye protection in case CLR splashes in your eyes, and make sure engine is cool, pressure is relieved via removal of rad cap & to avoid burn from hot coolant when hoses removed. My guess is that your into $20-$25 tops, and a whole lot less work. Let me know how it goes.

SOURCE: 2009 dodge journey...rear brake

If the e-brake cable is attached to caliper the piston is threaded. I use a very inexpensive tool i bought at the parts store . you will need to turn and press the piston at the same time. be aware that the two different sides are threaded oposite of each other.If the e-brake cable is not attached to caliperr the a c clamp should do the job.