Key dropped under the right side of drivers seat

If the seat base is fixed it is usually held down with two or three screws on the underside of the seat pad. It's the upright panel behind your heels when your sat on the seat. The screws are usually on the left, right and centre.
if the seats tilt for loading they will be bolted down through the floor with the seat base raised.
The rear panel removal depends on if the seat back drops to increase loading space.
If yes, lower the back seat and unscrew it from the floor panel under the seat.
If no, it will be bolted in place from inside the boot, (trunk), through the metal panel the seat back rests again.

IT is in the fuel tank. IT is electric. There are a lot of things that control the fuel pump, there is a relay and that is controlled by the ECM. The relay is part of a system called TOTAL POWER MANAGEMENT that Dodge uses and they are rife with problems.

Remove 4 bolts in seat rail and seat should come out. You will have to disconnect any electrical for power/heated seat from under the seat. Some times the seatbelt buckle assembly may have to be unbolted as well

I had the same seat recliner/raiser problem and worked around it. There is a gear shaft that runs across the back of the drivers seat just behind the split between the seat and seat back. It is broken.

The motor that runs the gear shaft is located on the side of the seat closest to the drivers' door. It works fine but only moves the gears on the drivers door side of the seat. On the console side
of the seat the gear doesn't turn at all because the shaft is broken where it meets the gear on that side. You can see the end of the gear shaft on the outside of the seat hinge on the console side and if the shaft is broker it will not move when the lever is pushed to raise the seat back.

I removed the seat (basically pull off the plastic button covers, remove four seat bolts, and disconnecting two wiring harness clips) and I was able to raise the seat "manually" as follows:

On the very end of the gear shaft itself you'll see a small alignment groove in it that would normally align with another groove on the seat hinge frame. (I suppose when they are aligned, that is the factory setting for the upright seat back position)

I put a straight slot screwdriver in the groove on the gear shaft and used a hammer to drive the gear clockwise (to raise the seat back; you'd go counter-clockwise to lower it).
With each hammer strike the gear moved a little bit until the grooves were aligned. The angle of the seat back raised a bit with each clockwise movement of the gear shaft. (I actually went a little further than the alignment of the markers to assure the seat was raised far enough). When I was satisfied with the seat back position, I reconnected and rebolted the seat.

Anyway, the seat back is now raised to about where I wanted it. The shaft is still broken, of course, and the vertical motor is now bound up and doesn't work... so this is now my permanent driving position... but it's much better than driving with the seat reclined!
And for a 1998 Avalon XLS with over 300,000 miles, I can certainly live with that.

Hope this helps someone else. I'll be pleased to answer any questions you may have.

Raise car and block securely. Underneath on floor pans directly below seats you will see oval or round rubber grommets.(plugs) Use flat screw driver to pry out. You will see a nut under each. Remove nuts and remove seat. Installation of aftermarket seats may require you to drill new holes and or addition of shims to square up the base of the new seat. Flat washers work well.

Try to lift up the whole bucket seats from the drivers side towards the right. Use the back seatbelt to hang the bucket seats. The engine is right inside the front row seats. That is where you can remove the engine thru drop it down..

The seat will have to be removed in order to inspect the power seat mechanism. Based on what you have stated, my guess would be that a gear may have stripped inside the mechanism when you heard the popping sound.

should be 4 bolts holding seat into floor pan, one under each corner of the seat. Remove bolts, unplug any power connections , seat should come right out.

I recently replaced the fuel pump on my 87 LXi. Drop the seat, and pull back the carpet from the trunk. You'll see two little round cover plates tarred to the floor right behind the seat back. Pry the driver side plate loose, and you'll see the cover for the fuel pump assembly underneath - it has a plug, a banjo bolted fuel line, and vent hose attached to it. Remove these, and remove 5 or 6 nuts with a 10mm socket, and lift the fuel pump assembly out, taking care to tilt it accordingly while lifting.

Before removing it though, take the plug loose and use a voltmeter to verify that you get 12vdc to the pump when the ignition is turned on. You should see the 12v for 2 seconds after the key is turned.

Hope this helps.

First, the bulb is a GE 158.
There are two screws near the back of the parking brake cover (one each side). Move the seats forward to remove them.
After removing the parking brake cover (helps to raise the parking brake), there are two screws at the back of the shift console.
Remove those two screws. Pull out the four 'serrated' push pins under the dash area holding the shift console (two each side). Then pull the cup holder up and out.
You should then be able to remove the shift console. One suggestion- if you need to move the shifter out of park, make sure your parking brake is on! There is a shift release you can depress with a small screwdriver under the little button/tab to the right of the shifter. (Can also be reached under the console with your finger after removing the cupholder.)
The bulb holder is on the driver's side. Only one I assume.
Good Luck,
Robert