Need instructions for suntune model 7602 inductive dwell tach

Below are the Prestolite distributor settings. Point "gap" is merely the initial setting to get the engine running, at which point you will need either a dwell meter, a DMM with duty cycle capability, or an oscilloscope to set the dwell to nominal.


My instructor (45 yrs ago) preached not to use a gap gauge between the point contacts but to clean contacts with denatured alcohol and no lint paper (insides of white box the points came in), use the gauge only to eye the approximate gap. Reason being, why risk contaminating the points you just cleaned, with what ever may be on a gauge, no matter how clean you think it is. You're just going to change it with a dwell meter anyway. : )


Further, you don't pull the paper through the contacts but use a slight twist of the paper wet with alcohol between closed contacts and minimal pressure. This way you remove any oils from the contacts without leaving minute pieces of paper. Repeat if necessary until paper comes out clean. Then install points into dist. and eyeball the gap. Start engine and set dwell. Then once you have proper dwell set, you check and adjust timing as it varies with any change in dwell.


If you need duty cycle to dwell conversions, comment below and I'll add later.

dwell angle is the no of degrees rotation between points closed and points open and for example on a 4 cylinder engine ( 4 lobes =90 degrees the dwell would be around 45 degrees available
there is an adverse relationship between point gap and dwell angle
the closer the points the bigger the dwell and conversely the bigger the gap the smaller the dwell angle
in a distributor the point gap of 18 would have a large dwell angle and that affects ignition timing
in your workshop manual there will be a dwell angle specification and if you set the points at .020 " that will put you close to the dwell angle specification
from there you adjust the gap to obtain the dwell setting
after yo have the dwell set , adjust the ignition timing
there is plenty of information on dwell angle, /point gap if you type in ---dwell angle to point gap relationship--

Hi Mike:
You must be playing with an old engine.
Make and model, year and engine, all would help.
If you want to get technical with it, the term "dwell" is relevant.
Have a read on this link
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1GGGE_enCA468&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=dwell%20angle%20definition
Hope this is interesting for you.

Who manufactured the tach? Maybe they have a web site and instructions? Did you tach come with instructions?

I looked at autometer instructions for your vehicle, have to use an adapter, it ties into the power wire for your coil pack. The adapter costs about 97 bucks, not including tax.

Different tach manufacturers may have different hook-ups?

200 cid 6 cylinder: dwell 35 to 38 degrees, point gap .024 - .026, initial timing: 6 btdc for manual, 12 btdc for automatic. You'll need a semi-decent dwell/tach - something in the 25 to 30 buck range should do nicely. Good luck.

Bad guage induction coil bad need new
Tach

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_c7b5aba9012a13b2

For spark to happen there must be a dwell timing, At the coil youll have a positive power at all times and at the negative part of the coil youll have a tach signal. What this does is ground very fast to collapse the magnetic field and creat spark. But this is something else, If you have spark at the coil and none at the spark plug wire the distributor cap will be at fault.If you have no spark at the coil then power and ignition module will be at fault, if you have power and no tach signal the ignition module will be at fault

timing and dwell angle is non adjustable in these later model vehicles. the dwell is simply a reading that might be useful on a scope, while the timing advance is controlled by the systems ecu(computer) by taking readings off the knock sensor(or pre detonation sensor). this is a mazda engine. is there a problem or are you simply trying to keep up on the maintenance?

I'll take a stab at this, there's better than a 50-50 chance, and you can do no damage if the first try is wrong. Red is +12 volts and Black is chassis ground. that's a given. I would try Blue to coil pack "Tach" terminal, and Green for the dashlight. If I am right about the Blue and Green, a 9-volt battery from Green to Black will light the light if it's not burned out. If the Green doesn't light it, try the Blue, but my bets on the Green. If the Blue doesn't light it either, the bulb is toast.