There are no dummy lights on a vehicle
Any light you get on your dash is a warning to
direct you to at least check for codes in a day
or so, & decide if continuing to drive it is a good
idea
Almost every time your get any light you have a
failure in some system & the lights are not going
away until the car is repaired
The ABS & Traction Control System is explained in your
owners manual & any repair shop can diagnose those issues
The system should no be temp sensitive unless the electronic
abs module was somehow the problem
SOURCE: 2006 Dodge Ram SLT Megacab, 5.9L Cummins
I stumbled across this thread while seeking a solution for a lighting problem on my 1998 RAM - totally unrelated to this one, as it turns out. But, having read through the posts on this topic, I have a theory which seems plausible, although it seems unlikely that a competent main dealer technician would have overlooked this possibility ....
Many automotive headlamp circuits are protected by thermal breakers rather than fuses - this is intended to prevent sudden total loss of main lighting when the circuit is overloaded - the breaker will normally reconnect as it cools down and the lighting will be restored - and will continue to work if the overload sitiuation no longer exists.
The failing component in this case could be the thermal breaker itself or something in the charging circuit. The reason why this happens only when the engine is running may be because the system voltage will be higher when the alternator is charging the battery and the current flow through the headlamp circuit will be proportionately higher. This additional current could be sufficient to trip a faulty thermal breaker. Alternatively, a fault in the charging circuit may allow the supply voltage to rise over the acceptable limit (around 14v) to a sufficient level where the current draw through the headlamp circuit exceeds the safety limit built into the thermal breaker.
It may be significant that both vehicles mentioned are diesels - presumably with twin batteries. There may be a clue here ..... one faulty battery could cause excessive charging voltage.
Look out for abnormally high voltage indications (if your truck is equipped with a voltmeter) or check the voltage across each battery with a multimeter with the motor running. Check under normal conditions and then with everything you can think of switched on - especially heated seats, mirrors etc - run the heater blower at full speed ... the voltage should never exceed 14.5V. Do the headlamps get brighter as you increase engine revs ? This could indicate a voltage control problem.
Hope this is helpful.
SOURCE: Airbag Light Stays on when hot outside, but not when cool outside
My experience with this issue, (and I have seen it before, several times), is a poor connection at either side front seat belt connectors. You should pull off the center trim panel, to expose the bottoms of the seatbelts, and plug/unplug/replug the connector 10-12 times; there is a known issue on poor connections on the seat belt wiring harnesses. Just replugging it works pretty good.
SOURCE: my 2006 HHR's a/c works fine at hi-way speeds but
This is an interesting subject.
When your engine reach high temp 100 C, your A?C not working, look in t the compressor pulley to see if the clutch engaged. If it is not then there is a temperature sensor from engine giving out the signal to stop to compressor and you may have not notice.
When you run in the freeway, the air flow increases thru your engine due to the direction of your car running help to cool down your engine, so your AC clutch keep engaged.
If your don't have a problem with the AC clutch, then check out Low and hig pressure from your refrigerant before charge some more.
But I also think that there in a nother posibility is that your divert valve controling the flap directing air through the heater core or evaporator before the air gets into your cabin based on your demand. When it doesn't work it just stays in the default position meaning it is directing air thru the heater core, this is why you are getting blown hot air.
Good luck in finding a root cause to the problem. Don't forget to post the message back so others can benefit ffrom the exchanging information.
SOURCE: 2006 PT w/ manual transmission won't go into gear when it's hot
You have worn out your shift cables. They cost approx 500 to replace. Mine did the same thing, and of course not covered under extended warranty because it is a wear and tear part just like break pads.
SOURCE: My 2006 equinox is making noise when I put on
could the noise be the ABS activating
check the wheel speed sensors
if your ABS, TRAC and MIL lights are on a good parts store should be able to pull codes for you
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