Want pictures of step by step on how to build a model tree house

It sounds like it is working backwards. Around the time your truck was made the industry had different emissions standards for trucks and cars. There were less controls on trucks.

There were vacuum controls that would increase idle speed when the engine was cold. The way this was done is through a water temperature sensor that is commonly called a vacuum tree. It is called a tree because it is shaped like a tree trunk with a few branches and each branch has a vacuum hose. As water temperature increases the vacuum routing changes. The cold setting makes an idle step-up dash-pot raise RPM and close the choke plate. As the water warms, the internal parts of the vacuum tree move and change the vacuum ports.

When the ports change, RPM drops and the choke plate opens and low idle speeds are restored. With the choke plate open high speed operation of the motor is assured without bogging down.

I would say most of what can be wrong is cheap to fix. A new thermostat, perhaps a new vacuum tree. Your problem can also be the vacuum lines are not connected to the correct ports. One thing many people do is to adjust the idle speed at the wrong time. The step-up cams are not in the proper position and when stuff starts working everything is out of adjustment because the changes were made at the wrong time.

This is a job for an old school mechanic.

Please re-post this question for our Experts, advising the following information:

1) Make of vehicle
2) Model of vehicle
3) Year of manufacture
4) Engine model & capacity


Thank you.

Here's a company that has a description of how to rebuildthe upper portion of a Ford steering column (for a small fee). They are broken down into step by stepdetailed instructions with pictures. Although the example is for a 2000 Mustang,the column is identical to yours (tilt and non tilt use the same housing) http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/steering-column-repair-how-to-instructions/ford/upper-housing-bearings%20replacement-instructions.phpI hope these instructionshelp you.

Go to your parts house and get a Haynes book for that truck. it has so much info. i think you are talking about the 4x4 actuator, the book has some pictures on that. the book is around 15 bucks and worth every penny

http://www.scribd.com/doc/28730101/The-Great-Gatsby-and-the-Village-by-the-Sea http://www.salagram.net/parishad43.htm http://onlineteachers.co.in/archives/presidium-school-recruiting-teachers/ there is a school by that name i would suggest plug wires and plugs that should make it run more better hope this helps have a merry christmas write me back tell me

1990 Cadillac Deville 4.5L FI 8cyl Repair Guide

CAUTION:
Never open, service, or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. In addition, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.

4.5L and 4.9L Engines

1. Drain the coolant to a level below the thermostat housing.
2. It may be necessary to remove the upper air filter assembly on some models.
3. Remove the 2 bolts securing the upper thermostat housing to the lower housing.
4. Remove the upper thermostat housing.
5. Remove the thermostat and O-ring from the lower housing.

Fig. Thermostat installation-4.5L and 4.9L engines


To install:

1. Install the thermostat and a new O-ring to the lower housing.
2. Install the upper thermostat housing to the lower housing. Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
3. Refill the cooling system using a 50/50 mixture of water and ethylene glycol antifreeze.
4. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks. Allow the engine to come to normal operating temperature. Recheck for coolant leaks.

Hope helps with this (remember rated this) Good luck.

if he change his own oil get a different boyfriend ,one with some basic knowledge of cars.

It is not a complicated procedure and all the work is within reach and no special tools are needed (can be done with just a pair of regular pliers, but please safely use the proper tools).. The steps are below; however, you may want to go to your local public library (you don't need a library card) and go to the "Reference Section". There you can find "Chilton's and Motor's reference books on your vehicle. Find the pages related to changing the thermostat and photocopy them using the public copy machines (15 ~ 25 cents per page).

Here are the steps:
1. Locate the thermostat housing at the end of the top radiatoir hose where it connects to the engine manifold. It is held onto the hose with a clamp.
2. Drain the radiator coolant to a level below the height of the thermostat housing. The drain plug is a thumb-screw on the lower right of the radiator as you face the radiator (maybe lower left). Reach behind the radiator from the bottom of the car. When done, then:
3. Remove the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the manifold.
4. Remove the old thermostat from the engine (may be stuck - pry it off) and scrape the old gasket and sealant from the housing and the manifold.
5. Install new thermostat (pointy side towards radiator) and use sealant on both sides of the gasket.
6. I recommend Permatex #2 non-hardening gasket sealant (small tube $3).
7. Tighten the housing down and replenish radiator....
*done*