95 mercury villager, garage says a round thing that rear right brake lines go to is badly rusted and needs replaced. I got to come up with the part, what is the parts name? They don't know. How du

The Expert is correct for most situations, gravity bleeding is one method. The problem may be that the safety feature which engages diagonal braking with a floating valve, requires the valve to re-center itself to allow for 4 wheel braking. Sometimes this is a stubborn process.

The prescribed method for bleeding is to start with the longest line first and then work yourself forward to the shortest brake line. If you have the money to spend, a vacuum hand pump with a brake fluid cup attachment is a handy tool. It will have additional uses in testing anything Vacuum operated that you wish to check in later years. This method is a draw method versus gravity or pressure/power bleed method.

I like the draw method because you can see "air foam" and contaminants leave the system and get a crystal clear flow from the brakes. Properly and patiently done, this method is cleaner and can keep you garage floor clean if that matters to you.

Did you by chance add power steering fluid to the brake reservoir instead of brake fluid?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

What you need to do is take off the original line. If you check on the Web, you may find some kits for a complete system, but an individual line is often difficult to ship.

There are different size fittings on the ends of brake lines. In some cases, the Universal lines may work, but the end fittings must match your vehicle. This is why taking the old line with you is important.

Some mechanics get coils of brake lines and bend and fit the ends themselves. It takes a few specialized hand tools to accomplish this. They are not terribly expensive, but for 1 line it is not worth it and it takes some skill to properly install the fittings on the line.

Now you have a 14 Year old car, and I can't recall when they stopped all production. But even a later model may be too old for them to stock a Factory replacement part.

A good brake shop would be your best bet. Call ahead and ask if they can make a line to replace what you have. It should not take but a 1/2 hour or so to swap out what you have, then some time to bleed the brakes.

One thing to consider- ALL lines were new at the same time. If one rusts out, there are few reasons for corrosion to be any worse for the failed line than the rest of the lines on your van. The exception would be collision replacements in which some brake lines might be newer than your van.

The brake bleed may not have been successful. Always bleed the right rear brake first then the left. Next the front right and then the left. If you are using someone to work the brake pedal make sure they hold it down until you have closed the bleed nipple. Make sure you use a little hose on the nipple and into a jar with fluid in it to watch for the bubbles to stop. Make sure the master cylinder always has enough fluid in it.
There is a brake bleeding kit that can be bought, this makes the job a lot easier.

this is either a bad bulb or a bad ground. Change brake bulb & check socket too.

go to villager-quest yahoo group for more help

could be the ABS sensor contacting the slotted sensor ring. just behind brake backing plate.

This type of problem can occur if the wrong fluid has been used at some earlier stage,in which case all seals need to be replaced along with master cylinder overhaul.

it is the rear proportioning valve that adds more rear braking as loads are put in the van.

It is about $350, Usually it is just the rusted lines. You can heat the lines carefully at the fittings to break them loose.

93-05 uses a valve with double flare fittings. 96-02 uses ISO (bubble flare) fittins. Otherwise the same.
I can get at discount if you really need one. 93-95 are obsolete now.

go here for help

gerry

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

It is a brake load sensoing valve that applies more pressure to the rear brakes as you load the vehicle. It is $375 from tascafordparts.com. Get one from the junk yard or just bypass it.

usually just the lines are leaking and can be replaced.
Valve, Brake Load Sensor Proportioning The Villager has a brake load sensor proportioning valve (2B547) that is mounted on the vehicle frame and connected to the rear axle housing (4010) . When the vehicle is unloaded, the brake load sensor proportioning valve closes and partially reduces hydraulic pressure to the rear wheel cylinders (2261) . As the vehicle is loaded, the weight presses down the back end of the vehicle on the rear springs (5560) . This activates the brake load sensor proportioning valve which opens and supplies more hydraulic pressure to the rear wheel cylinders . When the vehicle is fully loaded, the brake load sensor proportioning valve is fully open and provides full hydraulic pressure to the rear wheel cylinders .
-------------------------------------

a.b.s. is anti-lock braking system.if this light is on the automatic brake pumping system is malfunctioning. you probably have standard brakes, but you need to have it checked by a reputable garage.