I don't know how to remove the drum on the rear breaks.
the Haynes manual has wrong photo & instructions.
(Haynes has photo of drum with four bolts attached) The replacement drum I purchased from Rock Auto has five holes for five bolts. The drum on my 1990 626 DX has five bolts. There is a large nut recessed in the center of the drum that may or may not be holding the drum in place. I don't want to remove this nut unless it is necessary to get the drum off. (My guess is that the nut is holding the axel berrings etc. in place & I'd rather not mess with that if not necessary).
This "large nut" you are talking about is holding a drum. Usually over him is a cover. Use big screwdriver and hammer to remove cover, gently strike from all sides, and when you remove it you will approach to a big nut. Pay attention that under the drum is a whole breaks sistem. After you remove the nut gently strike from the rear, from all sides (left, right, up and down). Drum will fall off.
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Why does the Contents table send me to the wrong page in the manual? ... Steps(including how to ask for help from Haynes), please follow this link for more ... Brake wheel cylinder - replacement. Break-in ... Engine - removal and installation
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Rear tire and wheel assembly
Brake drum retaining clips (if equipped).
NOTE: If the drum does not come off, further brake clearance can be obtained by backing off the brake automatic adjuster screw. Remove the rubber plug from the top of brake support plate. Rotate the automatic adjuster screw in an upward motion, using a screwdriver. To Install:
Not as difficult as it seems...Drive stud through with a sledge, put new stud in, stack washers on threaded end (at least 3/4" and lube them) put the wheel lug (use a standard one turned around backwards, not the chrome one, or a nut of the correct thread style) Tighten it until the lug is seated properly in the flange. To do this, you need to remove the caliper and rotor if you have disc brakes in rear.On drum brakes, remove the drum and turn the axle to a spot where the lug won't hit anything on it's way out. Instructions for that can be found in either chiltons or haynes manuals (about $20).
As you removed the brakes ,there is an adjuster on the bottom ,where the shoes go together .Is that adjusted down so to allow the drums to go on? If so some autos have a definate forward and rear shoe ,that may be looked at! Hope this helps!
Do what the mechanics do.
BLOCK THE WHEELS. Take off the handbrakes. Make sure the wheel will turn. Take the wheel off.
Strike the face along the edge of the drum with a large hammer. Hit hard. ( You should have safety googles) Maybe even a sledge hammer if you have it. It's just rust holding it.
I assume you are attempting to take the rear brake drum off- if so take the wheel off of course, and tap the drum with a rubber mallet(or hammer-at own risk)- to break the drum away, some times brake drums will have one or two holes on the face, you'll be looking at the drum and see them, find a bolt that fits in the hole or holes and tighten them into the drum, it should push the drum off the shoes, be sure to pay attention to how the shoes come off take a picture of them before breaking them down its a good reference.
Check to see if the brake line is leaking. If it’s not , it is probably the slave cylinder. Remove the wheel, take the brake drum off and you should see the cylinder. If it is a disk brake. You have the inside brake pad plunge seal leaking. Sorry I don’t remember if the brakes are disk or drum, and I don’t have my books close. Either way it is a relatively easy fix. Parts are readily available at the auto parts store.