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My 2000 accent is becoming more and more difficult to start.Has always been problematic since new, but moreso now.Told once by hyundai was a loose wire that they fixed, but never really did.Tried a different key, no difference.Sometimes can be 10 mins sittin in car turning key on and off constantly to try and get to start.Sometimes it will be fine for a few days or a week then have a run of not starting.Got a new battery last year so thats not the cause, had the engine reconditioned last year thats made no difference, please help !!!
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Without actually looking/diagnosing your vehicle, the problem could be just about anything (fuel pressure, out of time, vacuum leak, defective sensor (i.e., MAP, MAF, ECT, IAT, CKP, etc.), Does the Check Engine light come ON when this happens? Whenever the "Check Engine" light comes on, there is always a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) stored in the ECM (Engine Control Module). You'll need an OBDII (On-Board-Diagnostics) scanner to retrieve any codes recorded/set in ECM. Once you do this and let us know what, if any codes are set, then we can go from there.
The problem you describe has many possible causes (usually an EMS (Engine Management System) sensor and/or circuit) which are most difficult to diagnose without a Check Engine light coming ON. Does the Check Engine light come ON when this happens? Whenever the "Check Engine" light comes on, there is always a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) stored in the ECM (Engine Control Module). You'll need an OBDII (On-Board-Diagnostics) scanner to retrieve any codes recorded/set in ECM. Once you do this and let us know what, if any codes are set, then we
can go from there. If the Check Engine light didn't come ON at any time, this becomes guess work & that can get expensive... suspected part after part after part. Since you mentioned the problem doesn't occur until the vehicle sits overnight, I suspect a sensor is starting to malfunction when it cools down, or connections to the fuel pump, crank position sensor going bad, oxidation of electrical wiring/connectors/pins, etc, etc. Sometimes simply disconnecting a component and reconnecting it solves the problem - difficult to impossible to say with any accuracy/certainty.
IF THE STARTER WON'T CRANK U MAY HAVE A BAD CLUTHC SWITCH.IT IS ON THE CLUTCH PEDAL AND ONLY ALLOWS POWER TO THE STARTER W/CLUTCH PEDAL IS FULLY DEPRESED
no its not difficult need to know where to look for a used one or new aftermarket one go to collisionrepairadvice.com and get instructions on the how to do it yourself but it may be able to just tighten up.
how many miles have you driven the car sence it came out of storage? you said it sat for 6 years it could be rust on fly wheel or pressure plate, that would make it shift like you said, because the clutch plate is either sticking to the fly wheel or pressure plate. when it shifts hard that means the clutch is not releacing all the way most likely because of the rust. i would just drive it and see if it comes out of it. it shoud not take long maybe 50 to 100 miles more or less. also i would chg. trans oil, setting that long moisture could have got in there, you know what they say about oil and water. also if it has a cable for clutch chk. see if it's hanging up to. setting that long rust becomes a big factor. hope this helps.
Go to hyundaiusa.com and then click on OWNERS on their menu bar. Then create a new account for your specific Hyundai vehicle year and model. Once you successfully log into your account, under the My Vehicle page you should see an underlined link labeled "Owners Manual". Clicking on this link, you will then be able to download a complete PDF version of the original owners manual.
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