20 Most Recent 1990 Ford Aerostar - Page 2 Questions & Answers

EITHER A BULB IS OUT ON ONE OF THE NON FUNCTIONING BLINKERS OR A RELAY/FUSE IS BLOWN

EITHER ONE BULB IS OUT ON ONE OF THE TURN SIGNALS OR THE RELAY HAS HAD IT, CHECK AND CHANGE WHERE NECESSARY.

Brake caliper is sticking,replace caliper

Check the fuse panel to find out where they A/C relay is... they are usually generic and can be swapped out.

should be a fuse in fuse panel, usually a 5 amp fuse, its between orange and brown in color, possibly light switch but not usually.. hope this helps some

What is the condition of both front calipers? both rear wheel cylinders? and the complete brake lines and hoses of your van? If they are all good with no traces of leakage, then did you bleed the Mastercylinder on the bench first before installing in the van? Did you gravity bleed the 4 wheels first? did you bleed from the farthest wheel first? Are you using a new Master and not a re-built??

you can use a program key to copy a new one, I know this program key is help for your car, hope help.

Possible that the drain of the AC from the drain hose under the dash has leaked or the hose has come off that had caused this issue.
Look on the underside of the evaporator tank where the condensation of the water from the cooling pipes collects. This has to drain by a hose to the bottom of the floor of the car. This must have come or displaced.
Make sure that the drain also is not choked or clogged.

IAC valve which controls the idle may be bad. Common problem.The IAC valve located at the throttle body.---------- IAC
might try removing it and cleaning with spray carb cleaner and letting it soak for an hour, air valve end only not the solenoid

ECM monitors idle speed and controls IAC for fixed rpm idle. valve solenoid shaft becomes gummed with dirt and exhaust gases.
Tranny in gear, increased engine load. Pulse width modulated control signal from ECM tries to drive IAC to open further to maintain idle, shaft gummed.
can't open far enough to maintain idle rpm with increase
Engine dies.------------------
------------- Another possibility.A bad fuel pump can also do that. You can get a fuel pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure. That will tell you if the fuel pump is weak. If you go through the trouble of removing the fuel filter, I would just replace it. It's mounted inside of the frame rail in front of the fuel tank. Get a large container to catch the fuel when you remove one of the lines; there is close to half a liter that can come out of a pressurized filter. Make sure you get a good replacement, like Purolator or Motorcraft.--------- But if all checked ok, then ECm ( computer) needs to be scanned. There is no check engine light, still needs to be scanned to confirm, if there are any hidden codes.------------ For car after 1995 it requires OBD2 tool and for car before 1995 it requires OBD1 tool.------- --------- There are very few auto parts store and repair centers who have OBD1 tool.In your case you required OBD1 tool.------ You can just contact local auto-parts store and they will guide you to the nearest store who has OBD1 tool.There you can get your car scanned.If there is error set in your cars computer, then you will receive the error code.As per error code it will point towards the faulty part causing this problem in your car.------------- But most probably, the problem is indicating towards faulty/ weak fuel pump and filter, which needs replacement and faulty IAC valve.----------This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

what does wew men?

If you can't get them from a Ford agent, have them made up in polyurethane. They are better than rubber and will last for ever. Locate a company that does polyurethane casting in your area and discuss it with them.

Hi, in your case, I would look at the motor first. It is accessible from the engine compartment. You may have to remove the air cleaner and/or the vacuum can to get the connector off the motor. With the connector off, use a 12 volt test light or voltmeter to check the voltage in the connector. Turn the car key on and the blower to high. If there is power at the blower connector, replace the motor. If no power at the connector, next check the resistor. The manual says the resistor is near the motor. The at least one of the motor wires will come from the resistor. The rest of the resistor wires come from the blower switch in the car. Pull the resistor out to see if it has heat damage. If yes, replace resistor. If no, replace the switch. Even if the resistor is bad, you may want to check the switch, as they sometime cause the resistor to fail again. Unfortunately the switch is integral to the coltrol panel and can only be bought as a whole control assembly. To remove the panel, pull the bezel off to expose the panel screws (see picture below).

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6234839-doesn_t_heater_or_air_conditioner_blow . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck, please get back to me.

If the heater core is not getting hot, there is a blockage in it and will have to be backflushed or replaced to repair this problem.

make sure any hoses are hooked back up and the same with any wiring to the fuel pump then i would check the to see if the pump is turning on turn the key on and listen at the gas cap to see if you hear the pump whinning if not the pump may be shot but i would check the fuses and relays.

open the cockpit on the bottom of radiator,take radiator cap off,turn garden hose on put in top of radiator start car run for a few minutes when fluids run clear from cockpit shut off hose let drain,close cockpit ,fill with anti-freeze and water about 50/50