Whirlpool Dishwashers - Page 2 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals
Whirlpool dishwasher normal and pots/pan lights flashing
My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination.
The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again.
I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!
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Whirlpool gold quiet partner 111 is noisy during the whole cycle
Some dishwashers have soft food disposals. If something gets in this disposal that will not dissolve such as bone, pop corn kernels, broken glass. This will make noise throughout the cycle. Sometimes after many cycles it will grind itself away. Otherwise service would be needed if you don’t know how to get inside the pump.
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My whirlpool dw stopped in mid cycle. no lights come on. checked power. water in the bottom
A lot of dishwashers that fail completely (no power at all but with water in the bottom) fail because of a blown up power switcher chip on and/or smoothing resistor on the power supply section of the main controller board. Usually these components blow as the heater kicks in to heat the water as this is the point of highest current draw. I would unplug the machine and locate the main controller board, disconnect all the cables from it and open it up (take care to wear gloves and not touch any capacitors or sensitive components) inspect the board for blown chips, and burned cracked resistors, or domed/bulging capacitors as these three are the main culprits. If the switcher chip has gone, it is usually starts with LNK___ or TNY___ and the main resistors are usually around 100ohm 3watt 5% tolerance (brown black brown gold) some have a 5th whitish/yellow band on one end that denotes it has a safety fuse built in.... But this isn't something I would consider vital. You can always add a fuse in series with the resistor if you REALLY want to!
I have added photos of a common controller board's big resistor and switcher chip (both after being replaced) for reference to what I was explaining above. This switcher was a TNY264GN that had cracked and blown up along with the resistor.
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