Whirlpool Dishwashers - Page 2 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals


cycle timer. Mine wouldn't shut if timer were in the wrong place.

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Are you sure the cycle is complete?
If it is drying dishes then you will be interrupting the cycle. It is possible to cancel cycle and start over.

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It appears that the model number you gave is incomplete. Please check again and then perhaps you'll get some more answers.

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Your water will not get hot because your control board since there is no water been coming into the dishwasher and turn the heater off you need to run the diagnostic mode fix the problem and that should take care of the issue

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Try unplugging it and wait 30 seconds plug it back in and it should reset the computer

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There is a sequence to reset. Firstly open the door then press heated dry normal heated dry normal within three seconds of each other

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My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination.
The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again.
I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!

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Some dishwashers have soft food disposals. If something gets in this disposal that will not dissolve such as bone, pop corn kernels, broken glass. This will make noise throughout the cycle. Sometimes after many cycles it will grind itself away. Otherwise service would be needed if you don’t know how to get inside the pump.

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This could be sudden failure of the cycle timer or some element controlled by the timer such as the pump.

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If you can fix my dishwasher I might be able to fix yours

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A lot of dishwashers that fail completely (no power at all but with water in the bottom) fail because of a blown up power switcher chip on and/or smoothing resistor on the power supply section of the main controller board. Usually these components blow as the heater kicks in to heat the water as this is the point of highest current draw. I would unplug the machine and locate the main controller board, disconnect all the cables from it and open it up (take care to wear gloves and not touch any capacitors or sensitive components) inspect the board for blown chips, and burned cracked resistors, or domed/bulging capacitors as these three are the main culprits. If the switcher chip has gone, it is usually starts with LNK___ or TNY___ and the main resistors are usually around 100ohm 3watt 5% tolerance (brown black brown gold) some have a 5th whitish/yellow band on one end that denotes it has a safety fuse built in.... But this isn't something I would consider vital. You can always add a fuse in series with the resistor if you REALLY want to!
I have added photos of a common controller board's big resistor and switcher chip (both after being replaced) for reference to what I was explaining above. This switcher was a TNY264GN that had cracked and blown up along with the resistor.
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The connector ribbon cable oxidizes connecting the keypad, replace the keypad!

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Your model number is located on the inside of the frame of the door.

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The latch may be misaligned, damaged or defective.

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