Watts Water Heaters - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

That depends on the voltage. Divide watts by volts to get amperes.

There is a pipe to the outside. Is this letting out water drip by drip? If so it's the pressure relief valve in the boiler. Trace the pipe back to find. Some of these valves can be dismantled and cleaned once removed. It is usually bits of deposit inside.

pipe dope not needed tighten snug then one quarter turn is recommended by most mfg

Even a small amount of crud on the rubber washer/sealer can cause the valve to seep. Some valves can be taken apart and cleaned but it will be better to replace the valve. They can be found on line for around $12 or more. You will have to shut off the water in take valve and drain most of the system unless you have a main line shut off valve so the system wont drain back into the boiler. These valves are usually set at 30PSI.

As a Backflow Tester, I have to recommend calling a certified Tester with experience in repairs. There are a few thing that could cause this such as debris stuck on the #1 Check disc (which usually means repair parts) or a nick on the Relief Valve seat. The rv seat is stainless steel and just pops in the bottom of the valve with an o-ring seal but unless you have experience at this I suggest you leave it to a professional as you could easily damage other parts or reassemble improperly.

Open following links for illustration and manual shown in #20 of 9 ways to save with water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Earthquake-straps-2.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#earthquake

install it on the hot water heater itself

Here is an excellent site in Seattle from their emergency management team that shows graphics and detailed instructions: http://www.seattle.gov/emergency/library/snap/skills/Earthquake%20Safety%20securing%20water%20heater.pdf

Steve N., Layton, UT

1) Watts doesn't seem to have installation manual.
Page 7 on sales-brochure/manual shows your product assembled.
http://media.wattswater.com/F-Spcmkr.pdf




2) Add a comment for more free help.

3) Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater straps or any do-it-yourself project. Give phone rep link to brochure/manual so they can speak to you about each individual part while you describe location of your heater and type of wall surface.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Hi there! I could not find the specific instructions but did find a link to SDART (Seattle Disaster And Response Teams) which depicts graphics using the E-75 and how to properly secure it to the studs. Here you go: http://www.seattle.gov/emergency/library/snap/skills/Earthquake%20Safety%20securing%20water%20heater.pdf

Respectfully, Steve N., Layton, Utah

I would replace the relief valve or remove it to see if it is plugging up.
Buy some cleaner and run it through if you have not done it in a while.
Do the other anyway.

Watts has contact-us page:
http://www.watts.com/pages/contactUs.asp

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on plumbing or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Pressure relief valve - replace
The internal seal gets bunged up with dirt & scale and then leaks water [pressure] to that outside pipe
To avoid draining the whole system, turn off the two central heating taps on the 3/4 pipes and then operate the valve manually and / or disconnect - only a small amount of water will escape / drip to below the boiler
Replace valve and fill as before.
If you think your system needs flushing out - now is a good time
Turn off mains electricity to boiler before starting work

Are you saying the 3/4 inch valve is dripping and you need to keep topping up the water to maintain the pressure?

If you do this it is "safe" but you will introduce more oxygen in the system with the fresh water.

This oxygen will corrode the radiators and possiblty the boiler heat exchanger depending on how much water you are introducing.

Change the Pressure reflief valve. This is a £10/$ 10 part and will save your system in the long run.

some of those products are not to be used w/RO water that could be the prob

Is the pressure in the boiler higher than the set pressure of the relief valve? If it is, there is a problem that the relief valve is trying to correct.
If not, did you try making the valve open?
Be careful, but step back, lift the lever and briefly let the relief valve discharge into a bucket of some sort, maybe you could put some old rags in it to keep from spraying out at you. If there is sediment in the valve this may flush it out.