What to repair for 110v device that burnt due to 220v
It would be the height of good luck if the device is worth repairing.
Replacement motor components like many other replacements, are prohibitively expensive and can be difficult to locate. Usually it is much cheaper to replace the appliance.
First it must be dismantled and thoroughly examined. If there are any electronics involved that happened to survive, they are unlikely to be reliable over the long-term as it is inevtable they have been over-stressed and probably seriously weakened.
The motor is likely to have run at a greater speed than it was designed for...
If the device or appliance is a premium quality unit and the repair is simple and cheap, such as a repairable circuit board, it would be worth taking a chance. Your first task is to gather the information you need to make a decision - list of parts, prices, availability, time factor...
Deep fryer reset button
Don't know which model you have but I have the DF-280. I had the same issue many people are having (my unit would not power on). The power cord is fine as I've confirmed this with a digital voltmeter. Turns out this particular unit has a safety switch on the right side of the metal/plastic brain unit housing. The switch is underneath the plastic protrusion that is perpendicular (or at a right angle) to the detachable electric plug. You probably won't notice it unless you look for it. My guess is the switch became less sensitive with use and despite being properly mounted to the fryer base, the brain unit did not recognize that it is properly mounted to the fryer base and therefore would not turn on.
The easiest fix for this is to stuff a small piece of paper towel slightly into the slit where the switch is activated and then remount the brain unit onto the fryer base. Another option is to replace the switch or buy a whole new fryer. If your switch actually was the problem, it should now turn on and work properly as mine did. Hope this helps...
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