Vulcan Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

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use matches,the pilot ligth is hard to replace unless in the tecnician can do,and hard to find the parts.

tnx.gerbee

yes, the gas valve must replace

Burner pot needs to be removed from heater, for hearers of this vintage, Best advice is to have the burner pot and heater serviced and replace ignition element at same time, I can do this,live in Adelaide. Probably cost $250 inc parts, test run, calibrate.

Some fryer valves have a safety lock, usually a slide on the handle near the valve body that must be released to open the valve. Check for this first. It's very rare for a fryer valve to stick unless it was forced shut with something partially blocking it. If not, let the fryer cool completely. Dip as much oil out as possible. Then disconnect the gas line and, with help, turn the fryer upside down draining the remaining oil into a suitable container. At this point, you have little to lose. Take a large wrench or piece of pipe to get more leverage and try to force it open and free it up. Do not use so much force that you damage the kettle. If you get it free, check to see that it does not leak before putting oil back in the fryer. If it leaks or fails to come free, replace the valve.

It depends on which wires are crossed. Switching the wires on a two wire high limit, thermostat, or thermopile will not matter. The wiring on the gas valve must be correct for the fryer to work properly and safely.

Most Vulcan fryers do not have a reset button. The high limit is self resetting when the fryer cools down to a safe temperature.

There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces an electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. Be sure that you have a good pilot flame. The pilot may need to be cleaned or adjusted. The thermopile is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

You probably have a gas supply problem. The fryer is not getting enough gas when both the pilot and main burners are on. Check to see that the gas supply valve is fully open. If the fryer uses a gas pressure regulator on the supply line like those manufactured by Maxitrol, there is a hexagonal fitting on top of it that looks like a large brass bolt. This is a leak limiter. To be safe, first shut off the gas and then unscrew it and inspect it to see if it's gunked up with grease. It should have two tiny holes on the sides of the bolt head. If these are blocked, the regulator will not increase the supply as demand increases. If blocked you can try clearing the holes with a paper clip, but it's best to replace the leak limiter. They are less than $5. If there is evidence of water or grease in the regulator, replace the whole regulator.