First check the screw in the shift arm that exits the transmission. If it's come loose consider a dab of locktite. You can also try replacing the gear oil with a high quality synthetic product. Many claim that this makes shifting smoother, and if you are in a hot climate and also pulling a side car, then I would use a synthetic 80W145 transmission oil. If the bike has many miles, I'd look at worn gear selector mechanisms - starting with external linkages, and then, if needed and only after checking everything else, the internal ones. Alternately there's a chance this could be from a dragging clutch. If the clutch is worn, or if a spline lube is due, then that might be the culprit. Many basic problems and solutions are common with BMW airheads (which is what I own) so you might find lots more information and suggestions at those websites. This might be a good place: http://www.airheads.org/forum/technical-discussions
It started as a motorized bicycle when cars were unreliable and far too expensive. Practical examples had to wait for the pneumatic tyre, and several engineers in many different places came up with prototypes. Hildebrand and Wolfmuller in Germany were first with a series production motorbike.
Urals need to be throughly warmed up before riding, old technology engine. As far as the revving, I'd Check for vacuum leaks at the
Carburator with some carb cleaner while idling, and if that's not it, I'd check the choke.
That can mean there is high blow-by internally in the engine. It can also mean an internal leak from a crack in the block, cylinder wall, piston, piston ring, ect.How does it run? I have seen some older bikes "blow" a little but keep a close eye on oil level and check spark plugs for heavy fowling.
To balance them all you need is an air flow meter like
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=572 You insert it alternatively in each carburetor and adjust the needles, screws and floats until the air flow is identical from idle to almost fully on - don't try is at full throttle, the indicator isn't sensitive enough there, for that use the colour of the sparkplug's isolator. The backfire has nothing to do with the carburetors, the ignition is badly adjusted. Check the timing and the advance mechanism, it might have been damaged and it has remained stuck.
The plug not firing all the fuel and fuel is getting past the head into the exhaust and burning in the exhaust system causing it too get so hot.And this causing backfiring. The plug is not firing because the plug cap is cracked and letting the charge arc outside the plug.--------You can get plugs and NGK plug caps from Yamaha dealer. Copper wire plugs needs to be used.----------------------- NGK BP7HS or BP7HS-10, gapped to .040. The -10 plugs are pregapped. Most Yamaha shops carry the NGK line as well as many other cycle stores in addition to IMWA stocking dealers.-----------
NGK BP7HS - Type 1 and II ignitions .025" gap. Type II and higher .040" gap. ---------- Make sure they are not the resistor plugs (with an R in the part number like BPR7HS).------------Click this link below:---http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/apps/motorcycles/make4.asp?id=6353&type=reg
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This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
When I replaced mine, I removed the seat to get a better view but ultimately it is a matter of wiggling the battery into a position so it will come out either side with the covers off.
It isn't easy or obvious, but there is just the right angle and it will come out.
The latest model years have a seat plate that unbolts so you can lift it straight out but that doesn't help with yours or mine.
Try some of the online Ural Forums, such as Soviet Steeds, Russian Iron or CURD Forum, lot's of expertise there.
No... you should always change the oil filter. The oil filter is designed to keep your oil clean of particulates that can damage your engine. Not changing it every oil change can reduce your engine life.
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Hi
There are a few sites on ebay, that sell ural parts, one says he can supply any item with notice bsa_69 susuck and mastersss
Unfortunately they are in europe and russia, but if paid with paypal it is a fairly safe transaction with buyer protection.
and cheap Im looking at a pair of new carbs for $160 including freight to australia
