Tylo Pool & Spa - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Hi I cant get my mspa alpine to inflate it started then just stopped

Intex E96 code means there is a heater fuse error , replace the fuse & your problems should be fixed

It may be Temperature Sensor Kyla Spa Quip Error Codes

• err 1 (H20) : Prime Failed
• err 3: Stuck Button
• err 4 : No Water Sensor
• err 5 : Over temp
• err 6 : Thermal Cut Out Tripped
• err 7 : Stuck Relay
• err 8 : No Temp Data
• 01: Stuck Button
• 02: No Controller Data
• 03: Temp Sensor
• 04: Water Sensor
• 05: Spa Over Temp
• 06: Heater Thermal Cut Out
• 07: Stuck Heater Relay
• 09: Water Prime Failed

Or you could ask them? https://maax.com/services/contact ..

no theirs not

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Television and Video. They are clever to never mention a maker name. Even the troubleshooting and warranty doesn't mention it. That tells me they are a shady Chinese company and is confirmed that they sell in Alibaba. Different model, but check the sensors shown on page 11. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/86997/Keys-Backyard-1-2-Person-Sauna-Bs-9101.html?page=16#manual Some further help here and a warning not to buy! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kt7nHGYp-9k https://www.google.com/search?q=Keys+Backyard+Sauna+FSK0011A5%2C+beeps ..

possible bad remote or loose wire to it check voltage to board if voltage ok bad board if no voltage bad power transformer

The sta-rite (panel) has failed or was incorrectly installed.

Take a look for new pump on amazon, click here: Amazon com pool pump. I hope this was helpful. Cheers

if salt ok see if voltage to cell or bad sensor

I had the same problem. It was the gas valve whistling. try closing the gas shut off to the unit just slightly until the whistling stops

google Flotec 3/4" well pump thre are several offers with prices.

To find items like this Ken you need the proper alpha-numeric model numbers rather than descriptions like '100,00 BTU' or 'Titanium'. The search queries are simply make model manual and make model parts Less words is best. https://www.google.com/search?q=Insta+Matik+100%2C000+BTU+Digital+Thermostat https://www.google.com/search?q=Titanium+above+ground+pool+heater+parts ..

Not enough information. All questions need 'make model (what it is)'. You posted to the Pool and Spa category? https://www.google.com/search?q=J506E-031456 ..

if you have a shared system only one at a time will heat

you should have originally planned for this and installed a sup with a pump in it to keep the floor dry..you can still put a sump in there and install a pump..if there is room for it.. if not need to make a low spot outside where the water will flow..sump it and pump form there..

You should look at control panel, they are readily available on line for $160.00

Clearwater chlorinator c170 no flow light is on but water is flowing Recently had this issue with my chlorinator, red light was on indicating no water flow but everything was working fine, filters clean, normal flow of water in the pool, pH, salt levels all good.According to the troubleshooting instructions the only option was to replace the PCB but the PCB was working just fine.I wanted to test the PCB so I've got a glass of tap water with a pinch of table salt and inserted the sensor cable all the way on the bottom, then I've touched the water with the black cable connector that goes to the chlorinating cell .The negative potential is transmitted trough the salty water in the cell from the black (-) connector to the sensor cable and to the transistor that detects (opens) when the gap between the negative plates and the sensor wire is bridged by water.So, the positive cable I left attached to the chlorinating cell and the negative and the sensor wire in a glass of water with a pinch of salt. The red light immediately went off and the green and yellow light came on.Green is OK power supply and yellow is the low salt light that came on because the flow of current between the connector and the sensor wire was low due to the small surface area of both.I've reconnected all the cables and powered on the system again and the problem was still there.The only possible culprit was obviously the cell itself. The advice was to replace it.But everything was fine with the connections of the titanium plates and all. Tested all the connections with a multimeter and all was fine .The "sensor" is just a screw so it couldn't be causing all the trouble, right ?Well , wrong ! The titanium screw , in time, has got coated with a layer of oxide I suppose and that was isolating the screw . But why did it show good connection when tested with the multimeter ? I suppose the probe punched a hole on the oxide layer but the surface was too small to trigger the transistor to show the water flow.So, small wire brush and brushed the living hell out of that screw. Install everything back , check all connections and power on.It works as new . I lost a half day figuring it all out but it was worth it.I hope it would help anyone who might be in the same ridiculous situation .

possible blower fan motor not turning fast enough

I just fixed this exact problem. I accidentally turned on the pump for a couple of seconds while the spa was empty and this drama of the flashing lights resulted. As usual, Google had the answer. What's happened is that the element has become overheated (for whatever reason) and a safety cut-off has been activated. You can reset the element by searching around where the power cord inserts into the heater body for a tiny red pin like button. Give it a firm press and that should solve the problem, it did for me anyway. The source document for this info can be found at 2095 Series 3 Button (SQ 1500 Series) - Spa Store Help Centre (zendesk.com) There's a .pdf download link at the bottom of the page