True Freezers - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to maker category. Thermostat Probe Error

E1 error on a true freezer. True Freezer, 5yrs. Just

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Appliance Repair Mar 6, 2022 - Ok. The E1 error code indicates a thermostat probe failure. 1 answer · Top answer: Hi, welcome to JustAnswer. My name is***** am a ticketed HVAC and refrigeration technician with ...

True Refrigeration Troubleshooting

Parts Town https://www.partstown.com > resource-center > guides P1 Alarm/ E1 Code. What does it mean? - This indicates a thermostat probe failure. "P1" displays on units with Dixell electronic controls. "E1" . ..

Question edited for clarity and better English. Low on Refrigerant Gas. You need a refrigeration engineer.

Question edited for full 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved to model category. I endured a 50 year career in catering and many years fighting refrigeration. The thing I learned that the only thing a normal person / manager / owner could do is clean the condenser fins. anything else is the domain of the refrigeration engineer. It could be stuck in defrost mode if the defrost cycle is like a heat pump and reverses the cycle to heat the evaporator and cool the condenser. The other possibility is a faulty control board. The only way to fix is to call for service. Tell the engineer everything that happened, as it will speed his diagnosis. True are a great brand. The place I retired at Toronto Airport was full of them. https://www.google.com/search?q=True+t35f+heating+cabinet ..

Question edited for a lot more clarity. Question moved to True Freezer category. You need a refrigeration engineer. It sounds like is has a leak and needs topping up with refrigerant gas. Things that also need checking, circulation fan working and that the defrost timer and defrost heater, and electronic thermostat are working correctly. Refrigeration is not a handyman job. ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Televisions. There is two sizes https://www.partstown.com/true/gdm-49f/parts?searchwithin=capillary Parts suppliers https://www.google.com/search?q=True+GDM-49F-LD+parts ..

Clixon is an overload device designed to shut off current when too much juice is flowing within circuit. When it cools it resets itself but if condition is still present it will go out again.

Your fan it's either defective, Or your unit is frozen up and the fan is stuck in ice. Unplug it defrost it take off the panels and see if the motor's any good .

The target temperature is 0'F or minis 28'C +/- 2'. Sales information, Parts and Manual in the links

True TG2F-2S Parts & Manuals

https://www.partstown.ca > True 331 items - Find genuine OEM True TG2F-2S replacement parts at Parts Town with the largest in-stock inventory ... How to find your True model and serial number.

TG2F-2S - Tzanet

https://www.tzanet.com > True_TG2F-2S_specs PDF Model: TRUE FOOD SERVICE. EQUIPMENT, INC. Project Name: Location: ... TG2F-2S. TG Spec Series: Reach-In Solid Swing Door Freezer. TG2F-2S. 2 pages You visited this page on 30/03/22.

TRUE TG2F-2S SPECIFICATIONS Pdf Download ...

https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Freezer View and Download True TG2F-2S specifications online. TG Series Reach-In Solid Door Freezer. TG2F-2S freezer pdf manual download. ..

we are not freezer repair tech , call one local to you

Try refrigeration hardware service out of Colorado. I'm not sure they sell to the end user, give them a try.

That is what it is supposed to do. It is called cycling and switches off when the set temperature is reached. It is a commercial freezer, so if the door opened and closed often, that is normal?Commercial freezers and fridges have an item called a 'Clixon' that cuts power in the case of the compressor overheating. When was the last time the fins on the compressor coils were cleaned? Could also be a bad door seal letting cold air escape. When you close a freezer door on a unit like that, it should be really hard to open straight afterward due to the suction. Could be a faulty thermostat. Turn the temperature to the warmest setting and see if it still does it? If it does, you need a new thermostat.I just retired after 52 years in catering.https://www.katom.com/598-T23F.html?gclid=CjwKCAiArbv_BRA8EiwAYGs23PKtEzF60_OMVNpHXBlGjHQNdpp0pDZsu0G0lFLqVy2p4qIybG9n8xoCwEMQAvD_BwE..

This sounds like a stuck relay to me. I have seen this problem before. The defrost clock kills power to the compressor relay coil during defrost. If the contacts in the relay are welded together the compressor runs while unit is trying to defrost. On newer units this relay is mounted in base of unit on the side or back of the electrical box near center bottom of unit. The compressor relay is a small rectangular box with 4 wires attached. It can be replaced with a single pole 20 amp contactor with a 120 volt coil/ or 240 volt. Check the units name plate voltage rating and ratings on old relay! ;)

our freezer is set to defrost every 8 hours for 15 min. this seem to do the trick. we have a true t-49f reach in freezer. try this setting and see if it works for your situation.

The heat at the opening of refrigerator is usually a sign the condenser coils are dirty. Check the condenser coils for a restriction underneath the unit. Dirty condenser coils will cause poor air flow over the coils and compressor. Poor air flow will cause a lot of problems, including overheating the compressor, the refrigerant and the copper lines. This will destroy your sealed system. The coils need cleaning at least once a year, more often if you have pets.
I couldn’t determine if your unit has an “energy saver” setting. If so, turn it on. Not all refrigerators have energy saver. This is on units with emilion heaters in the wall around the door gaskets. The heaters are to eliminate condensation around the door. Turning ON energy saver turns OFF those heaters. You should notice a change quickly if it’s the heater causing the heat, that is, if you have that model.
Cleaning the coils will need a day or two to allow things to cool down before you notice a change in the heat around the door.

https://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/TRUE-GDM_iom.pdf Here is the site for the ops manual. should walk you thru how to do temp adjustments.

I am assuming you are relating to the evaporator fan(s) not running. If this is the case, some units have a 'Klixon" type thermostat in the evaporator so when the evaporator coil temp reaches a predetermined temperature, the fans come on. You may have a bad "Fan Delay" (Klixon) or the coil is not reaching the proper temp to activate it to turn on the fans. I would check the wiring diagram on the unit for this part to see if this unit has it in the system.

Probably the compressor has shorted. 99.999% of the time this is the main culprit. Otherwise wiring short.

Did you replace or add a filter drier at compressor replacement? It may have a partial blockage at the inlet to the evaporator.

http://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/TRUE-T-23_iom.pdf This web site has the manual for this freezer. Take a look and see if this answers your question.

I would try this: unplug unit and use a vacuum cleaner and vacuum out the entire area. Not sure what you mean by "running really hard"? If you mean noisy, then see if you can see source after cleaning. Try this and let me know if I can be of any further help.