True Freezers - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
No door heat
The Mulluen heaters will be Built into the frame not in the door.
P-1 code
P1 is almost always a fault on the sensing (control) probe. Check it's end is not wet or covered in thick ice, and check the connections at the controller. If you can, change the probe connections on the controller temporarily. If P2 then shows it proves the probe is faulty. If P1 still shows, it proves the controller is at fault.
How to put hardstart kit in compressor GDM-72
depends if it is only a two wire hard start.. then wire it parelel with the run capacitor . place line to line and load to load . load goes to compressor and line to power which is usualy realy the neutral for a 120v compressor since the hot runs to a overload and straight to the compressor
My freezer build up ice
sounds like you are getting low on freon do you have freon gaddges to check it if not i can rent you some useing paypal
Heater elements not coming on
Is it the defrost heater element? There are several possibilities. Check defrost timer operation and output, check overheat limit klixon (attached to evaporator), check heater continuity.
True model gdim-26. runs fine unitl defrost then
Hi, sounds like your defrost clock is stuck in the defrost mode. On most true boxes they have a paragon defrost clock with adjustable pins you can set the amount of cycles and duration of the defrost cycle. Find the clock and give it a turn in the direction of the arrow or cw. It will come out of defrost and start to freeze again. If it continues, you may need a new clock. Let me know what you find. Keep me posted. True boxes are top of the line
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
TDD 2 Kegerator clicking and not cooling?
It's extremely rare that the compressor will be any good. Usually replacing the start relay does nothing on these small units. If you know how to use a multi-meter and are any good at wiring the cheapest way to go is to get what is called a 3-in-1 start kit at a HVAC wholesaler. You need to know the model of the compressor and/or the horsepower to get the right one. I would recommend getting a service tech to look it over though. Most likely the compressor is locked up.
On freezer True T-23, the compressor works around 5 minutes and turn off for around 5-6 minutes and start again for another 5 minutes. I need help
That is what it is supposed to do. It is called cycling and switches off when the set temperature is reached. It is a commercial freezer, so if the door opened and closed often, that is normal?Commercial freezers and fridges have an item called a 'Clixon' that cuts power in the case of the compressor overheating. When was the last time the fins on the compressor coils were cleaned? Could also be a bad door seal letting cold air escape. When you close a freezer door on a unit like that, it should be really hard to open straight afterward due to the suction. Could be a faulty thermostat. Turn the temperature to the warmest setting and see if it still does it? If it does, you need a new thermostat.I just retired after 52 years in catering.https://www.katom.com/598-T23F.html?gclid=CjwKCAiArbv_BRA8EiwAYGs23PKtEzF60_OMVNpHXBlGjHQNdpp0pDZsu0G0lFLqVy2p4qIybG9n8xoCwEMQAvD_BwE..
I have a True Freezer Model T-49. It works fine but every 3 or 4
This sounds like a stuck relay to me. I have seen this problem before. The defrost clock kills power to the compressor relay coil during defrost. If the contacts in the relay are welded together the compressor runs while unit is trying to defrost. On newer units this relay is mounted in base of unit on the side or back of the electrical box near center bottom of unit. The compressor relay is a small rectangular box with 4 wires attached. It can be replaced with a single pole 20 amp contactor with a 120 volt coil/ or 240 volt. Check the units name plate voltage rating and ratings on old relay! ;)
Why is jenn air jcd2389ge hot around front freezer door frame?
The heat at the opening of refrigerator is usually a sign the condenser coils are dirty. Check the condenser coils for a restriction underneath the unit. Dirty condenser coils will cause poor air flow over the coils and compressor. Poor air flow will cause a lot of problems, including overheating the compressor, the refrigerant and the copper lines. This will destroy your sealed system. The coils need cleaning at least once a year, more often if you have pets.
I couldn’t determine if your unit has an “energy saver” setting. If so, turn it on. Not all refrigerators have energy saver. This is on units with emilion heaters in the wall around the door gaskets. The heaters are to eliminate condensation around the door. Turning ON energy saver turns OFF those heaters. You should notice a change quickly if it’s the heater causing the heat, that is, if you have that model.
Cleaning the coils will need a day or two to allow things to cool down before you notice a change in the heat around the door.
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