Stanley Garden - Page 2 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

HERES A LINK,I THINK ITS WHAT YOU NEED.... http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/04f7/0900766b804f72b4.pdf

I would like the answer yo that question

Dealer visit

Check fuel cap vent.

Hi leo sorianoI know you said the machine is new, but things happen...Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.Take a picture for later reassembly.B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.Then follow the procedure below:------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible or maybe the high/ low speed jet is out of adjustment. Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.Please take time to rate meBud

Did you figure this out yet? If not.Did you check the onboard GFI breaker switch?Did you make sure the water was connected and turned on?

Drive out to the country side and look for a ACE or TrueValue hardware store. Bring your sprayer with you. They will likely have the right part for you in stock.

Try manufacturer web site.

Gerard, PLEASE contact me at (941) 391-5152 or [email protected] so I can hire you to replace the batteries in my Stanley barflex bf0109 light like you did above with vastly more run time mAh. I need someone to do it for me. I'm disabled. I just joined fixya.

Thanks,
Wallace Franklin Banach...

hi thre digslogs

pull the kill wire from ignition coil if a cdi type ignition unit and see if spark when hot , if not faulty coil indicated replace coil and set air gap
cheers take look

pauly46

Hi maraleequanb... I do not know this lock personally but according to what I am reading you do not have to use the key every time, only if you want to lock it while your away. I have found this quote about it on a website along with some others you might be interesting in reading . Please take time to rate me thumbs up **************************************************************************************************************** "4.0 out of 5 stars Great Gate Latch - Installation Instructions lacking, May 4, 2010 By M. D. Heidenreich "DIYWhenICan" (Dayton, OH USA) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME) Amazon Verified Purchase(What's this?) This review is from: Stanley Lockable Gate Latch With Dual Access (S836-171) [Misc.] I installed this gate on a 6' tall by 4' wide cedar gate latching to another smaller gate section. The smaller one has the post the larger side has the catch. The ability to push a button and open from the inside was the key selling point for me, being able to lock it is secondary but still will be nice when on vacation. We had one similar but we had to drill a hole and run a string and half the time manually latch the gate. This latch solved that problem completely. Gate now shuts and latches without a hitch. Now to the installation instructions: First - DO NOT USE the little grey PVC tube unless you have a hollow vinyl post - would of been nice if this was in bold print somewhere in the instructions. I tried to use it on the wood gate and spent 45 minutes on it before I finally found the teeny tiny writing saying not to use unless on vinyl. Second: I typically do well with pics. in instructions rather than a bunch of drawn out written explanations - not so with these instructions. From the look and my experience you could install on any gate set up so chances are you can make it work. I read other reviews complaining about the plastic and was prepared for that but was pleasently surprised with the solid feel and sturdy construction - time will tell but if it lasts two years, for the money, I'd say it's money well spent. My 4 stars are due to the instructions not the product. "

More quotes and pictures of the lock.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Lockable-Latch-Access-S836-171/product-reviews/B002L2R7K6

At the lower part of your sharpshooter there is a port,kindly remove it by pulling that port.And after you pulled it put the brads and put it back to the nailed.

Your stud finder keeps beeping because old plaster walls have lath boards behind the plaster that are attached to the studs and running horizontally. Try adjusting the sensitivity of the stud finder by placing it on the wall and turning the sensitivity down until it just stops beeping. Then move it back and forth in a wide enough arc to be sure that you have crossed a stud, turning up the sensitivity ever so slightly until you get a tone when you cross a stud. Hope this works out for you.

Your door jumped out of synch What you need to do is turn the open close knob on your closer toward the open mode until it stops opening when you close it.

If you turn the top (fill) handle it should release the pressure. Sometimes you have to also pull the trigger at the same time you turn the handle.

Your sensitivity may need to be adjusted

Its cheaper to buy a new tape then to go through the frustration of trying to rewind the tape.

Almost any lumber yard or hardware store should have one.

here is the link:

http://www.laserstreet.com/documents/TLM100_manual.pdf


Hope this helps

Thanks

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