Sony SDM - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

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Either a loose/bad power cable or the backlight is failing.

Check for a loose power cord on the back of the monitor (quite common).

use marker erase fluid or any quality cleaner product just remember that it is a LCD screen so don't press hard when removing the mark

Maybe update your display drivers. PC appears to be slow.
Make sure you don't have a bunch of apps that auto start.
Do you hibenate your PC?
Same issue if you connect monitor to another PC?
If issue follows you to a different PC it says monitor. If it doesn't it says the first PC (that monitor is currently connected to) had a cpu/memory or a driver issue.

Good luck

Most likely you should be on input 1. Try changing that and it should work

It can likely be repaired, but will probably cost more to repair it, than replace it, since even 24" LCD monitors cost around $125.

Very doubtful. Either you have a defective or corrupt display driver, or possibly a malware infection. Is that a laptop or notebook computer? If so, is there a VGA port for an external monitor? If do, try using a known good external monitor.

Although you didn't list your operating system, I'm assuming it is Windows and offering a suggestion to clear up the issue based on that OS. Go to settings, and then to control panel. Once in control panel look for "power settings" and click on "custom". This will allow you to turn off all power saving modes by clicking "never" on when the screen is turned off or goes to sleep. If the issue is caused by the power saving mode, this will end the problem.

go to control panel and change the desktop background color

If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ Search the site by type in the "brand name" to your device; (Exclude the model number), in the "Search box at the top right of the display window of the Homepage" to get gathered related posts

Hi go on setting and reset all setting. it will come on normal mood.

Get monitor out of burn in mode by unplugging the power to monitor then while holding down the power button on monitor plugged in the power cord to the monitor all while it is connected to a running computer. Turn the monitor off with the power button. When press the power again the burn in mode should be gone and the monitor should display the computer

change your flat screen monitor data cable.

This happened to me and my Sony SDM S204, and I fixed it, so read on! Switch on... green LED for a couple of seconds, Brief flash of light with display working, then total shutdown. Switch off, repeat but press the front panel power button as soon as the green LED comes on and it goes into standby (red LED) and stays there. This proved to be a weak power supply problem, fixed by replacing dried-up electrolytic capacitors (very common problem on any elderly TFT monitor). Hopefully it's the same for you, but if you have a different problem, like no sign of life at all, some of this may still prove useful to you. Getting into the case is tricky. Remove the stand (4 scerws) and all seven other visible screws on the rear. Using a "spudger" (plastic blade for prizing cases apart) or similar object (or a knife if you don't mind causing cosmetic damage to the case)prize the bezel from the back cover. It's got lots of snap-fit latches every 3 inches or so so it's a pain. I used several thin metal plates in the gap as I went to stop it snapping shut again. Be careful around the front panel button area because you could damage the wires, though they are not as delicate as the flat film cables found in Dell monitors! With the bezel separated the plastic back panel is still firmly held on by the four annoying plastic tabs along each of the two sides. I overcame these by wedging metal plates next to them to prize the sides sufficiently apart from the metal internals to pass the tabs, then laid the monitor face down standing off them so the internals and bezel could drop downwards out of the case back. That's the hard bit over! The metal back cover can now be removed (7 silver screws - not the two below the video connectors. Disconnect all the wires form the power supply board with care. The one to the main board un-clips from the main board and not form the PSU board. Don't just pull it. The wire to the power switch comes out easily if the PSU board is lifted a bit first (3 yellowish screws). The backlight cables top and bottom are held on with white gunk - just pull them off without straining the wires unduly. The main clear plastic cover can be peeled off the board for access to the components. In my case I found nothing obviously wrong - the fuse was good, and no sign of any burning, so I began to systematically remove each electrolytic capacitor in turn and test it with the capacitance setting on my multimeter. All of the solitary ones were fine, reading within a few% of the value on the can so put them back (the right way round!!!!). However, three of the ones in the bank of six (470uF,35V) were reading significantly higher than the other three, 490-510uF, so I replaced them with new. Put the clear plastic safety cover back on, using double-sided tape on the bits where the clue had dried out. DON'T POWER UP WITHOUT IT! Fit back onto the monitor and reconnect everything with care not to bend any pins in the board-mounted connectors. Refit the three yellowy screws. With the monitor screen side up it's safe to plug in the power lead and turn it on. First time I did it, the thing still didn't work! I disconnected power and checked all the connectors again. One of the backlight connectors wasn't quite straight and it turned out I'd bent a pin. Straightened it, reconnected, BINGO! If you started with a completely dead monitor it's likely the fuse is blown and possibly some other stuff as well. The best approach for a PSU non-expert (like me) is to get hold of a working one and just look for differences between the two side by side on the bench with a meter (Not powered up of course!) I don't know this particular supply but look out for burnt resistor R019 (hidden in heatshrink but should be 0.39 ohms), also look for short circuits across FETs, replace any obviously charred items and check the rectifier and diodes with the diode check function of the meter. Good luck, and ALWAYS be safe around electricity! Chris Colborne 13/2/15

This happened to me and my Sony SDM S204, and I fixed it, so read on! Switch on... green LED for a couple of seconds, Brief flash of light with display working, then total shutdown. Switch off, repeat but press the front panel power button as soon as the green LED comes on and it goes into standby (red LED) and stays there. This proved to be a weak power supply problem, fixed by replacing dried-up electrolytic capacitors (very common problem on any elderly TFT monitor). Hopefully it's the same for you, but if you have a different problem, like no sign of life at all, some of this may still prove useful to you. Getting into the case is tricky. Remove the stand (4 scerws) and all seven other visible screws on the rear. Using a "spudger" (plastic blade for prizing cases apart) or similar object (or a knife if you don't mind causing cosmetic damage to the case)prize the bezel from the back cover. It's got lots of snap-fit latches every 3 inches or so so it's a pain. I used several thin metal plates in the gap as I went to stop it snapping shut again. Be careful around the front panel button area because you could damage the wires, though they are not as delicate as the flat film cables found in Dell monitors! With the bezel separated the plastic back panel is still firmly held on by the four annoying plastic tabs along each of the two sides. I overcame these by wedging metal plates next to them to prize the sides sufficiently apart from the metal internals to pass the tabs, then laid the monitor face down standing off them so the internals and bezel could drop downwards out of the case back. That's the hard bit over! The metal back cover can now be removed (7 silver screws - not the two below the video connectors. Disconnect all the wires form the power supply board with care. The one to the main board un-clips from the main board and not form the PSU board. Don't just pull it. The wire to the power switch comes out easily if the PSU board is lifted a bit first (3 yellowish screws). The backlight cables top and bottom are held on with white gunk - just pull them off without straining the wires unduly. The main clear plastic cover can be peeled off the board for access to the components. In my case I found nothing obviously wrong - the fuse was good, and no sign of any burning, so I began to systematically remove each electrolytic capacitor in turn and test it with the capacitance setting on my multimeter. All of the solitary ones were fine, reading within a few% of the value on the can so put them back (the right way round!!!!). However, three of the ones in the bank of six (470uF,35V) were reading significantly higher than the other three, 490-510uF, so I replaced them with new. Put the clear plastic safety cover back on, using double-sided tape on the bits where the clue had dried out. DON'T POWER UP WITHOUT IT! Fit back onto the monitor and reconnect everything with care not to bend any pins in the board-mounted connectors. Refit the three yellowy screws. With the monitor screen side up it's safe to plug in the power lead and turn it on. First time I did it, the thing still didn't work! I disconnected power and checked all the connectors again. One of the backlight connectors wasn't quite straight and it turned out I'd bent a pin. Straightened it, reconnected, BINGO! If you started with a completely dead monitor it's likely the fuse is blown and possibly some other stuff as well. The best approach for a PSU non-expert (like me) is to get hold of a working one and just look for differences between the two side by side on the bench with a meter (Not powered up of course!) I don't know this particular supply but look out for burnt resistor R019 (hidden in heatshrink but should be 0.39 ohms), also look for short circuits across FETs, replace any obviously charred items and check the rectifier and diodes with the diode check function of the meter. Good luck, and ALWAYS be safe around electricity! Chris Colborne 13/2/15

Possibly the backlights have failed. The screen part may be working normally. Get a bright light close to the front of the screen, see correct image faintly. Commonly it is failure of the high voltage inverter circuits that power the backlight fluorescent lamps. You can probably buy replacement circuit or repair the one you have. I have done this on another model. You need to search the web for experience of the same model. RDL.

PWI17LS285A, ACTUALLY THE CAPACITORS DOES NOT KEEP ENOUGH CHARGE TO KEEP THE LCD WORK...

so the big capicitor needs to replaced? 100µF 450V

1. Verify the monitor's power cord is plugged firmly into the wall outlet and the back of the monitor. 2. Verify the monitor cable is firmly connected to the computer and the monitor. 3. Verify that you have turned the monitor power switch on. 4. If the power light on the monitor is not on, test the wall outlet (plug in a light or something you know works). 5. If the power light on the monitor is not on, try a different power cord. 6. If the power light is on and yellow or flashing, but nothing displays, or the display is incorrect, borrow a monitor from a friend. If that works, your monitor probably needs replaced.

Try another monitor if it works ok then the other monitor needs replaceing if it still does the same then you need replace the graphics card. Terry