Samsung Washing Machines - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Hi, please make sure that any detergent is poured into the correct compartment of your washer. This should be the same for any fabric softener used. You can also use a test kit to check for any high-levels of unwanted chemicals in your houses water supply. Usually, these type of tests are used for pool water. Your local Lowes or Home Depot could have these types. Please browse their websites to check. Thank you.

The error code E1 = Water supply error -Not enough water entering the W/M.
Try check water supply line is on and not have any kinked.

There will be a backup cell that has exhausted itself. Check the service manual for its position.

PE error code is a pressure sensor code, and more than likely the sensor will need to be replaced. Try unplugging the unit for about 5 minutes and see if it will clear it out. If not, will need to replace pressure switch and hose (switch looks like a little UFO under the console, pretty easy job.

If you do not know much about fixing them, call a repair man. If you like to tinker, take off the back cover and see what is clicking.

Because of comments I saw online I bought a new control board but There is another control board that may be impacted and I am trying to troubleshoot before I buy another board. Thank you for your question. I am reviewing it and will respond in a moment. AE6 represents communication errors between the sub and main PBAs or the main and inverter PBAs. Turn the unit off from the breaker for about2 minutes, then turn it back on, if that does not clear the error code, you will need to call out a service tech because you have a more serious problem, you can get a service tech here. https:/www.searshomeservices.com/repair Is there any troubleshooting you can recommend to determine what part to replace? Yes, you will need to replace the main and sub PCB on the unit. Thank you

AE6 error code indicates communication error specifically. The commands from the logic circuit are being interrupted, interrupting the program from moving forward.

Hey Randy, thank you for reaching out. According. to my research E3 fault code appears when the water level increases dramatically and reaches the overflow point. This can be due to a blocked pressure system. Please, make sure your supply hose is not bent or kinked. I hope this is what you are looking for.

The 'smoke' is steam from the heater element, it is still warm. It is a fully electronic machine and sounds like you need a Samsung engineer. Here is the service manual. https://applianceassistant.com/ServiceManuals/WF220-Fast-track-R3.pdf ..

The drain hose is not installed properly or is clogged.

try to lubricate latch or try to jump it for test if bad replace it should only be held by a clip

check belt if ok possible cogs under agitator to tub

Plug it in. Does it have a reset button? Check the fuse.

possible belt debris

The thermal fuse is not working and there could be an over heating issue going on and your washing machine will not be able to work again unless the thermal fuse has been replaced.

I have a different brand top loader but the agitator uses these plastic "dog ears" that catch a ring gear. They are turned to only catch in one direction, allowing the agitator to turn one way. As they wear down the agitator stops turning at all and they make a plastic grinding noise. Your model may have something similar. Look up your model and see what might be in the agitator to replace.

If your washer isn't spinning properly , it could be because of an unbalanced load, which makes it harder for the drum to spin. An unblanced load also cause errors. "Ub" or "Ur" display is one of the sign that your washer is unbalanced. This may be because the washer is lopsided or because the load inside is uneven. Or A faulty drain pump could cause a Samsung washer not spinning or draining water. The drain pump is responsible for emptying the washer of its dirty water after it has completed washing, but when it clogs or jams, it's unable to empty the machine, and your clothes won't get clean. This is an issue with the machine.

The water supply for your washing machine is having problems or the water supply hose is either kinked or is blocked. The debris filter and the mesh filter need to be cleaned out.

My 5D error was certainly a water heater error because I changed the thermostat for a more elevated value before the error occured. I have never used this value before and coming back to my usual value solved this error.

I have a similar 2008 Samsung washer (WF206BNW/XAC) that I nearly trashed because it would not drain. It had a problem with the drain motor. I was able to fix the motor, but not before I had purchased a replacement drain pump motor. (which is in my cabinet should I need it in the future) Before doing any work on your washer, disconnect the power cord and turn off the water. Be prepared to soak up water with towels or whatever, if you are dismantling the pump. The problem with these pumps: Water will get inside around the armature of the drain pump motor, but this part does not see the 120 volts which is limited to the stationary outer part of the motor. The motor will run with this water but eventually it builds up calcium and deposits that start to bind on the rotating part, which will cause it to draw more current. An overload on the outer part of the motor (coil) will open and protect the motor from burning out, but eventually that overload will fail and either burn or open circuit and no more power gets to your motor. The easiest thing to do is replace the motor which is readily available from a number of online stores. But if you are handy with your tools, you can dismantle the motor, scrape out the deposits from inside the plastic cylinder where the armature spins and remove any deposits on the armature. You should put a bit of high quality grease in the bearings before reassembly. I put too much grease in the first time and it dragged on the rotating parts and I had to disassemble it again to clean it out. You will need to check the overload device (heat sensor) that is tucked in the coil and stationary portion on the outer part of the motor. However, if you replaced the motor and it still doesn't run, your problem is probably in the Control Panel, as was mine. Control panel circuit cards are not available anywhere!!! Check to see if you are getting any voltage to them motor terminals. If your have no voltage, continue reading: The increased current causes the contacts to pit and corrode and they don't make proper contact anymore. Below see the little relay only 1 inch long, where I have exposed the contacts so that they can be cleaned The trick is to get to these contacts and clean them up with a tiny bit of fine sandpaper. This relay in on the control circuit card, which must be removed from the washer to get at. First remove the top of the washer by removing the screws at the top in the back. push the top towards the back of the unit and lift off. Remove the screws from the control panel and pull forward in order to remove the wires. Make a note where the wires are connected or take pictures before removing. This is a picture of my control circuit card connection after I had cleaned the contacts and reassembled the wiring. When you have removed the control panel, take a close look at the labelling under the relays (black boxes) and locate the drain pump relay. With an exacto knife gently cut around the top of the box and remove the top. You have to gently remove the black plastic link that goes from the white actuator to the relay contacts with tweezers. When you do, it will look like the first picture in included above. cut a small strip of fine sandpaper and fold it in half lengthwise. It has to be small enough to fit inside the box between the two contact pads. Rub it up and down gently between the two contact pads while squeezing the pads together on the sandpaper using tweezers. do not oversand, one or two strokes is enough. Blow out any dirt. Put the link back in position between the white actuator and the contact. Make sure that it moves properly by pushing gently on the actuator and the it closes the contacts. I put a plastic box over all the relays and taped it in place so that dirt would not fall in the contacts after reassembly. Reassemble the Control panel to the washer, but leave the top off during testing. Good luck.