Russell Hobbs Irons - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

See is the videos here help. https://www.google.com/search?q=russell+hobbs+express+steam+iron+wiring+diagram&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=APq-WBuHt2lHpbuE5nsjrZh-8itNx6N-7w:1646764053732&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjV6M2Tkrf2AhUVCc0KHX2cAMoQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&cshid=1646764119190708&biw=1920&bih=937&dpr=1 And here as well. The wiring is generic, power, thermostat, heater. https://www.google.com/search?q=steam+iron+wiring+diagram ..

Read the operator's instructions. They are available of the Russell Hobbs site or by contacting Russell Hobbs UK on-line through the "Contact" link. In most cases, steam irons tend to clog with hard water deposits and need to be de-scaled from time to time. If that doesn't help you, buy a new iron. Rowenta's seem to perform best.

When on iron iron get heated up the tank also heated up but water is not being sucked my machine from water compartment no voice or sound is heard to pump in water to make steam

check cartridge is positioned, aligned, and secured in place correctly. It could cause leaking if it is not placed correctly.

The iron has failed. Leakage from the soleplate is indicative.

element failure

Check may be the wire cable is cut off inside or cut off from the iron.. Be careful it could be bridging issue or the elements are no more in contact get in touch with the repairers

To disassemble the Russell Hobbs 15081 steam glide iron, you have to remove the two hidden screws on the handle. To locate the first screw remove the two adjacent blue buttons which are each held in with two hidden clips front and rear, so lever out with small screwdriver or similar. The second hidden screw is under the pivots of the water inlet lid.(I broke one of the plastic pivots but no big deal). Then using a thin blade, separate the top half of the handle from the bottom half of the handle. A bit of force is needed as there are more plastic clips. I started from the rear. Once the top half the handle is removed, other screws become visible, so teardown is not hard, just note which screws go where, as they are different lengths. My problem was that some of the screws/bolts were so corroded I needed to drill them out. The thermostat was also corroded, which probably explained why the thermal fuse had blown. The element was fine.

To disassemble the Russell Hobbs 15081steam glide iron, you have to remove the two hidden screws on the handle. To locate the first screw remove the two adjacent blue buttons which are each held in with two hidden clips front and rear, so lever out with small screwdriver or similar. The second hidden screw is under the pivots of the water inlet lid.(I broke one of the plastic pivots but no big deal). Then using a thin blade, separate the top half of the handle from the bottom half of the handle. A bit of force is needed as there are more plastic clips. I started from the rear. Once the top half the handle is removed, other screws become visible, so teardown is not hard, just note which screws go where, as they are different lengths. My problem was that some of the screws/bolts were so corroded I needed to drill them out. The thermostat was also corroded, which probably explained why the thermal fuse had blown. The element was fine.

don't bother it is not repairable and you are not an electrician junk it and get an updated version with warranty

take it in to an appliance repair shop generally it is cheaper to junk it and get a better quality unit

hi trish. go to this link and see if its there. Instruction manual for Russell Hobbs Steamglide Iron Google Search

hi steven. see if this link helps you out. Instruction manual for russell hobbs steam easy iron no 14084 Google Search

Heating element is open.

either take something off the circuit or upgrade your circuit breaker and wiring.

if under warranty take it back to point of purchase strange the user manual is no help

dead short in the russell hobbs appliance take it in to an appliance repair shop and have it tested

if you want to open it up the screws are hidden, and you need to carefully prise off both the blue filling funnel at the rear, and the surround for the water spray nozzle at the front (knife or thin blade driver). Then you will meet a mix of pozi and anti-tamper screws needing a fork driver. The power supply for the blue LEDs is wrapped in a disconcerting gold coloured (mylar) pouch, and does not affect operation. The thermostat and the supply to the red neon light are all in the base plate with the element, the overheat fuse is in a "sausage" of sleeving P clipped to the baseplate. In our case this fuse had gone open circuit, and temporarily shorting this out restored normal operation until a spare could be located.

http://uk.russellhobbs.com/

If the water used is hard it will build up with shale, and block the steam vents, best to flush with clean water after every second use . Best to take to the dealer and have it serviced .