ROL Wheels Cycling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


If you mean the noise while coasting, cassettes don't make that ratcheting noise. The pawls in the hub/cassette body do. Changing the cassette will not change the sound.

http://www.rolwheels.com/rol_volant_wheels.php

http://www.rolwheels.com/contact_us.php

ROL Wheels... | Answered on May 07, 2011


I don't have a bicycle nor do I repair bicycles.

Cycling | Answered on Dec 13, 2020


If you shop around there are plenty of styles of handlebar. Might be worth you trying a bar from a dirt bike or some sort of cruiser bike.
Another option could be to tilt your existing bars back a small amount and add a fork stem riser. Sometimes simply raising the handlebar height on the fork top can help.

Cycling | Answered on Jul 16, 2020


I do not think this will help, but it might give you some ideas:

http://www.protecboardracks.com/products.aspx

Another design, that you would have to modify for your purpose but a very good idea:
http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/shop/articles_794.shtml

again use this principle and do your own drawings:

http://www.woodstore.net/lumstorrac.html

Cycling | Answered on Jun 27, 2020


I can't find a manual, but the install is pretty basic. You need to bolt it to the frame, then remove one of the sprockets on the derailleur to get the chain through, then replace. Attach the cable through the locking nut, using the lowest gear first, then run it to the highest gear to make sure it runs through them all. There are some set screws to set so that the derailleur doesn't go past the upper/lower gears. It's all a matter of adjustment from there.
Hope this is of help
Joe

Cycling | Answered on Jun 06, 2020


Here is the link for front derail...
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-XT-FD-M786-Down-Swing-Derailleur/dp/B007HDMY2U/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=shimano+xt+front+derailleur&qid=1591136571&sr=8-1

Cycling | Answered on Jun 02, 2020


With square-taper cranks, the bottom bracket spindle length required is determined by the particular brand/model of crankset.
You can find the specifications online if you do a search using the brand/model of crankset. You will need a crank puller and bottom bracket tools to change it out. The main crankarm bolts should be tight, around 30 ft-lbs of torque.

Cycling | Answered on Apr 25, 2020


try manufacturer or online search

Cycling | Answered on Apr 23, 2020


Here are some things the book doesn't tell you:
You have to completely reset the speedometer and lose your odometer to reset the MPH. Hold both buttons for 3 secs to get reset. (Remember to use the left button to walk through the setup process and use the right button to change the settings.) First set the wheel size using Ideluna's settings above on this page (right button to change the setting and left button to go to next number). Next is MPH/KPH, after wheel size setting, push left button again and km flashes. Push right button to change the setting to MI. Next is TIME. Push left button and you'll see the time. Hold down left button till 24hr appears. Push right button to change to 12hr. Then push left button to go to flashing hour. Change with right button. Then left button to go to flashing minute. Right button to change minute, hold down to change minutes fast. Now you are set up. Now the process changes, use the right button to walk through the menu and use the left button to reset. Don't push both buttons anymore unless you want to reset everything again. If you want to reset something just hold the left button down until 0. When you are in SCAN mode, push the right button to go to Time, To go back to SCAN once, hold the right button down - It will scan everything once and return to TIME. To go to ODO, push right button once, push again for DST, push again for MXS, push again for AVS, push again for TM, push again for SCAN to stay in SCAN.

Cycling | Answered on Apr 03, 2020

PD-A525 Manual

Shimano PD-A525 | Uploaded on Feb 20, 2020


you have to put the pad in it's 1st possiton then tighten the screws.

Cycling | Answered on Feb 19, 2020


if the batter is goo , throw it away , junk got wet

Cycling | Answered on Jan 26, 2020


FIXYA doesn't appraise items.

Might try joining a forum for Walther P.38 to ask for assistance.

http://www.p38forum.com/

Cycling | Answered on Jan 16, 2020


FINALLY found the answer to this:

Yeah, the manual isn't helpful. At all.

I called Treadmill Doctor (www.treadmilldoctor.com) to see what they could give me (I had just gotten a battery from them).

They said I had to take off the side panel, and then the battery was right there.

So, I did it. Here's how.

1) There are about 5 screws that hold the side panels on. If you are sitting on the bike, the panel to your right is the one you are trying to take off. The screws are located:
a) Where the communication port is
b) Around the "neck" that connects the display to the bike
c) In front of where the seat slides
d) At the bottom of the bike on the panel ( this one is hard to find, lay down parallel to the bike, and follow along the bottom, near the wheel, but a little closer to the back)
e) At the back of the seat slider

2) Take off the panel. It comes off, but with a little difficulty due to the pedals. I manhandled the back a little, and then turned the pedal so I could remove the panel in the direction of the arm to the pedal (i.e., moved the pedal up so I could slide the panel up along the pedal to get it off.)

3) There's the battery, about mid way back, by a control panel.
To get it off, there are two screws with nuts on the end holding the battery on. They are on top of the battery. There is a similar-looking third screw on the left side wall, but don't mess with that one. Not necessary.
a) Use either a ratchet or turn pliers to remove the nuts. The front one will be much easier than the back ( mine was located on the front left and back right of the battery). I had to use pliers on the back one because i had no room.
b) Once these two nuts are off, the battery will slide down with the screws still in it and out of the bike. Make sure you disconnect the cables.

4) Put the new battery in.
a) Remove the screws from the other battery, and put them in the SAME spots on the new one.
b) Line up the screws with the holes in the spot for the battery in the bike.
c) Put the nuts back on the screws to tighten the screw in place.
d) Reconnect the wires. The long one is positive (mine was white) and the short one is negative (mine was black). Keep in mind that the battery must go in the same way as the other came out.

5) Replace the side panel.
a) Start with sliding over the pedal, then replace all screws to fasten the side panel back on. I recommend checking the bike by spinning the pedals with your hands once the new battery is in to check to see if it works.

And there you go! Hope it helps!

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Cycling | Answered on Jan 15, 2020


Actually there is nothing that you can fell like 0

Cycling | Answered on Jan 02, 2020

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