I am trying to work out if you have damaged the speakers and amp too.
Have you tried a pair of headphones on the amp? If they sound ok then your amp is fine.
Assuming it is, then speakers have what's called crossover units in side each of them. This splits the sound into three parts. Bass, midrange, treble. The bass is handled by the woofer's, the midrange by a middle sized speaker or or it's combined with a tweeter, which of course handles the treble.
Connecting a 1.5 volt battery across any of the individual speakers will cause it to pop if working. If the speaker then is not getting sound then the crossover unit is to blame.
When you look at the crossover unit, it will have coils and capacitors (non polarised) on it. The bigger ones deal with the bass and the smaller ones treble. If you find a fault say on the crossover of the speaker, for example no treble comes out of it. Then start by replacing the capacitors. Use the same value as on the capacitor and remember they fit any way round.
Here's the Owner's manual -> https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paradigm.com%2Fdownloads%2FOM-100.pdf.
There are many ways to connect the system depending on your receiver's outputs and the speakers. Usually, the TV L/R output connects to one of the receiver's inputs. The receiver's preamp sub output goes to the powered subwoofer. The receiver's FL/C/FR/SL/SR/RL/RR speaker outputs go to the respective speakers.
Try using a "cheater" plug at the electrical outlet to the wall for your front end equipment. It does a "ground lift". If your equipment plug is 3-prong, a cheater plug will make it a 2-prong.
PDR-8 Specifications
Design
Single driver, bass reflex system with critically tuned resistive port and built-in amplifier
Amplifier
High-current, discrete output, 90 watts RMS
Amplifier Features
Soft clipping, thermal protection
Frequency Response On-Axis
29Hz - 150Hz
Low Frequency Driver
210mm (8 in) extended travel with 38mm (1-1/2 in) voice-coil, aluminum former
Low Frequency Extension
29 Hz (DIN)
Finishes
Black Ash, Light Cherry, Dark Cherry
Inputs
From A/V receiver/processor or Paradigm X-Series Subwoofer Control Unit mono-sub out or preamp left/right output;From receiver/amplifier speaker terminals or main/satellite speaker terminals
Weight
25 lbs. (11 kg)
Dimensions HxWxD
13.25" × 9.75" × 15"
(34cm × 25cm × 38cm)
Specifications are subject to change without notice.
PS-1200 Specifications
Design
Single driver, DCBS™ system with high velocity resistive ports and built-in amplifier
Amplifier
High current, hybrid output, 130 watts RMS
Amplifier Features
Powersaver auto-on/off, soft clipping, thermal protection
Low Pass Filter Frequency
Variable 50Hz-150Hz
Low Frequency Driver
310 mm, carbon-fiber-reinforced composite cone, Apical™ former
Low Frequency Extension
23 Hz (DIN)
Sub / Sat Phase Alignment
0 - 180
Finishes
Black Ash
Inputs
From A/V receiver/processor or Paradigm X-Series Control Unit or preamp left/right output; From receiver/amplifier speaker terminals or main/satellite speaker terminals
Weight
68 lbs. (31 kg)
Dimensions HxWxD
19.75" × 17" × 21"
(50cm × 43cm × 53cm)
Specifications are subject to change without notice.
The inside of a subwoofer isn't really a great place to put an amplifier, that that is what you have. These things do go bad from time to time.
You may be able to get it repaired, or you could replace the amp. You're looking for a "plate amp". Parts Express has a good selection:
Subwoofer Plate Amplifiers
Are you having trouble removing the driver? Just remove it and replace, keeping track of where the positive (red) terminal is and what cable is connected there. The part number should be printed on the back of the magnet.
A few questions to help me help you: (1) Does the woofer cone move freely when you use your hands to move it (or do you feel friction)? (2) have you tried swapping the left speaker for the right to rule out the receiver as a cause?
