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NEVER wash a motor!

GMC K1500 Cars &... | Answered 7 hours ago


Hi, Mattias could be possible, it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads, etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component, etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.cbrxx.com/threads/fi-warning-light.23109/
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/81369-fi-light-stays-on/
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/279309558-cbr1100-xx-1999-2002-blackbird-factory-workshop-repair $17
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/677765/Honda-Cbr1100xx.html

Honda... | Answered 7 hours ago


Contact Lakewood directly to request a wiring diagram (not a schematic).

Lakewood Dryers | Answered 7 hours ago


Normal 0 BLACK SCREEN OF DEATH – FIXED AT LAST - After doing several hours of research on the internet, I have been able to eliminate the problem on my Powershot S2 IS. I started with the “fix” as suggested by guidofoc in a post on the “flickr” site. Thanks guidofoc! His procedure did fix the problem for me but it only lasted a day. The next day, back to the same old black screen. For the next few days/weeks, when I wanted to use my camera, I did the same procedure and it would come back to life but would be black again the next time I powered up the camera or a day later.
Back to internet research! On the “Fixya” site, I found a picture of the camera shutter and diaphragm blades. This picture was posted by “andyhutton” who was also having the same “black screen” problem. He had disassembled his camera and found what appeared to be an oil exuding on the shutter diaphragm blades. He disassembled the camera, cleaned it thoroughly, and reassembled it. This fixed his camera. Other information I found indicated that what appeared to be oil was a little “stiffer” than oil, almost hard. It was thought that this was happening after leaving in a hot car other high temperature environment.
All this made sense to me but I didn’t relish the thought of tearing the camera apart and reassembling it. This procedure reportedly took about 6-8 hours. And this was by a person who considered himself, to have a reasonable amount of mechanical ability. I definitely DON’T RECOMMEND this approach unless you have tried all else and are ready to junk your camera. Using this information I theorized that if I used the temporary fix procedure and then repeatedly activated the shutter, perhaps the “wiping action” may wear down the frictional areas and free up the shutter blades to move more freely. I tried it. Voila! It has worked now for the last 6-8 weeks without a failure. Here is my final procedure:

Set the camera in Tv mode, (delayed shutter mode) set the shutter at 15 sec, click to take a picture and during that 15 secs (like, after 7 seconds) open the battery, compartment which cuts contact with the battery circuit. Close the battery cover. At this point the camera works fine for me but only temporarily as noted above. Sometimes however, this procedure had to be performed more than once. Here is the key to the permanent fix. While the camera is working via the temporary fix, take many, many pictures. Hundreds! I probably snapped 400-600 pics. The idea is to wear down the little patches of hardened oil on the shutter blades. For the next three of days I took hundreds of pics each day. Basically, I just aimed the camera at the wall or whatever and snapped off several hundred pics.

Now that I seem to have my camera working permanently, my plan is to NOT leave my camera in a high temperature environment, and to try to use it regularly. Maybe, not unlike many other things, if it gets no regular use, it may start to deteriorate.

No guarantees but I do hope this helps someone.

Canon PowerShot... | Answered 8 hours ago


Iirc the red is low oil or low oil pressure.

Cars & Trucks | Answered 8 hours ago


I think that is artificial intelligence for IT and computer operations AIOps is the short form for artificial intelligence for IT and IT tech and also operations. It refers to multi-layered technology platforms that automate and enhance IT operations through analytics and machine learning (ML)

Miscellaneous | Answered 8 hours ago


A Green light or White light maybe blinking while the TV is turning on. This is normal and will stop once the TV does come on. If the light continues to blink and the TV does not come on or if the TV comes on and then turns off and the process starts over again, and unplug the TV for about 3 minutes then plug it back in and try again.

Televison &... | Answered 8 hours ago


I'd begin with the carburetor fuel solenoid. Connect a grounded (battery negative) automotive test probe to the positive side of the solenoid (at the carburetor). With ignition switch in RUN or START position, the test lamp should light.

I suspect you will find the test lamp lights only in the start position and not the run position. Most likely cause would be a bad ignition switch or a safety interlock module.

Garden | Answered 8 hours ago


Replacement heater element could be defective

Beko DCU6130S... | Answered 8 hours ago


Temperature control failure

Beko... | Answered 8 hours ago


The "button" (switch) is defective.

Beko Dishwashers | Answered 8 hours ago


check the controls,make sure that they are not stuck.

Dishwashers | Answered 8 hours ago

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