Orion Car Audio & Video - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Unknown model not working could be a bunch of things!
does the unit have power?? fuse(s) ok?? turn on voltage present(12v)?? Any leds?? Unit ever get wet?? Any lites?? smoke get out?? was it, did it get real hot??
I have worked on a few with various problems, no common problems. Some of the things I have seen; Level adj pot was smashed in, Shorted fets , + burnt gate drive resistors in the ps section + blown runs, bad connections, shorted outputs, corrosion from beer leakage, bad electrolytic caps, leaking caps ate up the copper runs, metal bars used to hold down fets and outputs came loose, parts over heated and shorted.
Open up and look around, burnt resistors, leaking caps, puffed up caps, black marks, are all helpful signs.
These amps typically use FETs in the power supply(+/- 25-50v) and regular transistors for the outputs. Test all heatsinked parts for shorts. Carefully remove metal bars holding down heatsinked parts, keep track of where the heat sink insulators go, remove pcb and inspect runs. Repair and bench test with a power supply that has an amp meter. With out any input, unit should only use a few amps after initial 5-15amps to get the PS fired up. Then test across speaker outputs for any DC voltage. Anything over 1v, (should be very close to zero) amp needs some more work.
Good luck!

Hello m3_sam,

You did not say what you have the amp wired to and what impedance. Since the amp produces more power at a lower impedance, it does make a difference.

At 4 ohms, the HCCA-D5000 delivers 1000 watts RMS. The higher the volume, the more the amp needs to draw from the battery.

Assuming everything is installed according to specifications, especially the dual 4AWG power and ground connections, it's likely that your vehicle battery/alternator is simpy not able to keep up with the current demand of the amp at high volume. You should probably consider upgrading your vehicle alternator and/or battery. In addition, consider a "Big Three" upgrade. This involves replacing or supplementing the battery positive, vehicle negative, and alternator cables to ones of larger gauge that will allow more current flow. Installation of a capacitor could possible solve the problem, but with the current demands of your amp, I wouldn't count on it.

Hope this helps.

Good chance that it is alternator noise mate, there is a little component that you can buy what you fit onto the alternator to stop unwanted noises feeding back threw the audio, ask in a car audio shop i would tell you the name i just cant remember it at all.

also check that all the earths are perfect, *bare metal* 80% of audio problems are due to a bad earth.

wha amp do you have? and when it cuts off? did ou try to find a different ground make sure it is a good ground anx make sure your widt of the mains can handle the amperage of the amplifier

go to Orion's website. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_aad3edb7dfa380b9

first if its the stock stereo or even one you bought run rca and blue(remote)wire to amplifier groud amp to chsis of the car make sure to sand it down to make contact then run your positive +wire from your batterie to your amp+

there is nothing about the make. even china made items work well many times. but the thing is you wont be getting a warranty for those items.

your only choice is to run the amplifier at a 4 ohm mono load - this will not reult in the amplifier making much power.
Positive on sub to Positive on amp.
Negative on sub to Negative on amp.
This is your only possibility.

Adding a second sub in the same fashion will result in a 2 ohm load, and your amplifier will run at its rated potential.

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Directed Electronics is who makes them and you can access their manuals on their website. Hope this helps!

http://www.directed.com/Support/ProductGuides.aspx

the speakers most not go lower than 2ohms.when the amp. is bridge you are connectin 2 channels.your speakers are most important,the impendence of it,in ohms e.g 4ohms or 8ohms.note make shore the amp.can go down to 2ohms when bridge,or connect the speakers in series.if you not shore.

if its hot its drawing to much current sound as if you have something improperly hooked up..if i could see your wiring i could help u out better steve

i would reccommed at least 2 farad!

OMG YES!!!
sorry for the caps BUT YES!!!
The U.S.A. models are made with tried & true "brand name" components.
The new china ones are made with the cheapest parts possible and high failure rates.
Good luck with warranties too. They are currently backlogged 6 months - so if your amplifier needed to be sent in for warranty work - you would be without it for over 6 mo.
They will almost always refuse a swap-out. They choose to repair all warranty work.
Get an older model for reliability, features, AND i think they look better.
Orion, PPI, Phoenix Gold, and more are falling into the USED TO BE BETTER category these days.

FYI - You may be interested in Massive Audio. They have a NO QUESTIONS ASKED warranty for 2 years on everything they sell (except the DMX Line of subwoofers - because they have a replaceable voicecoil assembly) if installed by a dealer!!!

Also brands like Incriminator Audio and Sundown Audio are made here in the US.

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of course they're horrible. The products China have come out with in the past and the present are always lower quality than American made goods.

HERE is the info you're looking for.

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you need to go tho a block fuse which will be able to handle more load but will still give way before the amp its self would get fried i recommend a 75 fuse or higher

Try putting your car in neutral then back in park. Most of the time the key won't come out if the gear shift doesn't lock in park. Try lifting your steering wheel. Use a pair of pliers and wiggle gently on the back of the key.. Maybe it'll disengage.

well if your talking material i would go with heated plexy glass it has a better feed back

No. You would have to find a vendor of the wire used in voice coils and wind them yourself, which also means you have to pull the cone out without damaging the surround or spider , and be able to put is all back together too . Your best bet with an older sub is to find a good deal on ebay.

here is the contact details for the company...

For Technical Support: Phone: (800) 876-0800 x 2032 Fax: (760) 599-1380 E-mail: [email protected]