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The pressure loss is due to either a plugged distributor/manifold or upper basket. The head must be removed for access to the manifold and upper basket. The manifold runs from the head to the bottom of the tank. This is where all the soft water is drawn from and is the most likely cause for pressure loss. Water must be shut off and tank depressurized before attempting to remove the head of softener to access these parts. Clean the slots in the manifold and upper basket. They are probably plugged with iron, resin and/or gravel and re-install.
RJ

the seat sits on a " v" section that is attached to the wall. You may have to lift the bottom out a bit then lift the seat support up off the bracket. If it has be on for some time then it may require a slight tap with a hammer to get it to move as it mat be corroded into place.

If you have a three valve bypass the center "bypass" may be open and letting hard water past softener.
RJ

http://www.kfswater.com/5600/Parts5600.asp.........go here and they have the manual for $5.00........


Thx
Ken

Water hardness set at 19 would be softer than 25...expressed as gpg or Grains Per Gallon

A softener will generally make a high pitch squeal when it is backwashing. This is generally the first cycle in most softeners. It may also do this during the final fast rinse cycle. The second brining cycle takes about an hour. That is why you may have a delay in the squeal. Also I have seen at times when a power surge can force the drive motor into a short backwash. Usually just a few minutes. It may help to put a surge surpressor at the water softener plug.
RJ

Starting with the mildest; Denatured Alcohol (sometimes works), Naphtha, and lastly Xylene. All are readily available at your local hardware store.

HI Robert, If it is not starting on its own the cause is usually one of two things.1. The timer motor is bad (not keeping TOD) Many models the timer motor serves as the drive motor also.2. If it is a metered system it may not be counting the gallons and not prompting regeneration.Otherwise check for salt bridges, a faulty electrical connection or plugged eductor assembly.The first two are when you definitely know it is not regenerating on its own.You can try a manual regeneration and see if it goes through regeneration on its own, if so it is most likely the meter assembly not reading gallons.Most systems with meter assemblies will have an "icon" that flashes when gallons are being registered.Let me know the model of valve and I can help you solve your problem easier.RJ

This is an automatic feature to dry out the pipes and prevent mold. The next time you turn on the pump after leaving these tubs for a few weeks you get lots of black **** in the water and this is what this feature prevents. Sounds like the tub is working fine :)