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you need to remove the rear access panel inside the freezer and find the defrost heater and check this and see if the element is open,it is under and the side s of the evaporator,and if this is good you need to see if the defrost timer or adaptive defrost board is bad

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Apr 16, 2010

normally, most freezers will accumulate frost . it can't really be helped. however , the amount of frost can be controlled as it is basically a by-product of three things . often you open the door, well the door seals, and finally, well the food is sealed before it is frozen.

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Mar 16, 2010

either the cold control thermostat is defective or the rtc overload contactor has welded itself together and cant open and close the power contacts to the unit,un plug the cold control and see if the unit stops then

Nor-Lake... | Answered on Feb 27, 2010

Normally, freezers are at 0 degrees. If you have ice cream, shoot for -10 degrees.

hope this is what you are looking for.

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Feb 25, 2010


Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Jan 31, 2010

Cleaned the condensor coils? If not locate the coils either underneath (open both doors and remove the toe kick) or in the rear (remove the back panel). Use a vaccum or long brush to get any dust, hair or debris off these coils. These coils are allowing the refrigerant to cool down and if hair or dust is all over them they cant release the heat efficently. This kind of stuff will insulate the coils and the heat cant escape or release. Otherwise you are dealing with a freon issue. If the unit is running but not cooling correctly anylonger it probably has lost some freon and will continue to lose it. Hopefully this helps.

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Jan 24, 2010

Good day,
You will need an ohm meter to check the parts.
Your defrost system has failed.
It is made up of 3 components, 2 of which are located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment.
Remove the rear panel. There is a cooling coil, that has a calrod heating element that runs along it's bottom. As well there is a defrost thermostat ( a small round 1" disk) which is located on the top of the same coil. Both should be checked with an ohm meter to test for continuity. The heater should read no more than 30 ohms, the thermostat ( IT MUST STILL BE COLD BELOW 30 DEGREES) should read zero ohms. Note: The heater rarely fails, the thermostat has a high failure rate.

The third item is a timer, or a solid state adaptive defrost control. Depending on age, and model, it is located , behind the kick plate on the bottom front.
Or, in the fresh food compartment on the roof.
If it is a timer, you can turn the timer shaft when the machine is running until the machine shuts off. With it still turned on, wait 40 minutes.
If the machine turns itself back on, the timer is O.K. if not, the timer is bad, and needs replaced.
If the Main heater checks O.K. and it has a solid state control, then replace the thermostat in the freezer compartment, and the solid state board.

Below is an excellant tutorial on defrost systems.
Thank you for using FixYa

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Jan 20, 2010

Believe it or not, this is pretty normal.

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Dec 30, 2009

Look at the compressor. On it you will see a voltage rating, this is usually on a sticker or metal plate on compressor. Whatever the compressor is rated at is what you need as a power source.

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Nov 02, 2009

all you need is a head set where you can buy at any computer shop, it is a plug and play type so you won't need any software to install it, all you have to do is plug it the port where there is a sign for mic and eraphone or much better look at the color coding.

if you want seperately , then you can just buy a microphone seperately

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Nov 01, 2009

Yes, I have a solution for you/them, tell them to buy weather-proof sound curtains you can get these @ and or mcmaster-carr. these work great and are cheap........

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Nov 01, 2009

The board will not fix the problem if the heater or the hi temp limit is bad. It sounds like the "computer" is not the problem. Have someone come out and diagnose the problem.

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Oct 29, 2009

I assume there is no manual control for setting temp. so the thermal sensor or control circuit has failed and it is just staying at its maximum.  You will probably get more help from the manufacturer but their website is somewhat disjointed; looking for contact info for your product ends at one point and then shifts to their scientific product line.
The only general contact info I found is here:
You will in any case need to have the correct model number at hand since the subject line doesn't sound like your freezer. 

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Oct 29, 2009

no sealer and its just as simple as you suggest

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Oct 03, 2009


the temp should be around 35-40 in the fresh side and below freezing in the freezer. If the probe is positioned wrong then it may not shut off. Does the probe need to be in the freezer compartment?If the freon level is wrong then the freezer may not get cold enough to shut down the control tstat. The low side pressure should be around 5 PSI.

thank you for using fixya,rate my answer

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Oct 01, 2009

There can be several reasons to it.
1.Dust collection can create such a thing but it does not happen directly you should understand the performance loss with in time.
2.Gas leakeage in the cooling circuit.(You need a technican to correct it)It happens due to corrosion.
3.Compressor failure.(This is really a small percentage)
4.If this is a no frost appliance not properly closed door.Make the evap blocked.You can unload the appliance.unplug wait for a day then start again.

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Sep 27, 2009

try door switches

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Sep 23, 2009

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