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1. Magnetron failure
2. Door interlock failure
3. Control board failure
4. Touch panel failure
5. Fuse failure

Magic Chef... | Answered on Sep 12, 2020


The E1 code is set when it takes more than 4 minutes to drain. The solution is to check the drain outlet and hose for blockage.

Magic Chef... | Answered on Sep 12, 2020


https://www.google.com/search?q=H14006R&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS757US757&oq=H14006R&aqs=chrome..69i57.504j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Magic Chef... | Answered on Sep 04, 2020


9 is usuly the coldes setting on the freezer. It needs 24 hrs to get to the setting that you put it on.

Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs up for the free answer

Magic Chef 19.6... | Answered on Aug 30, 2020


Taken from another poster at Home Depot reviews and similiar to what others have found...

The e3/e4 problem is the "connectors" for the fans to the middle separator shelf are put in the pathway of condensation. This causes them to get wet and rust. PLEASE NOTE: If you decide to attempt this fix, you take full responsibility for your fridge and the outcome. If you don’t think you can do this…DON’T! Call a licensed electrician. Here is how I resolved my e3 issue: 1) Unplug the fridge
2) Remove all wine and the metal shelves
3) Remove the 2 screws from the middle separator shelf, one on each side on top
4) Remove the 4 screws from the backboard, one in each corner
5) Slide out the middle shelf slowly, on the right hand side towards the front of the shelf there will be 4 connectors you must disconnect before removing the shelf (they are tucked into the shelf). With one hand on the backboard and one on the shelf, slowly take them out together
6) Once you have the backboard and shelf out, you'll see there is a black and white connector, each having a red and black wire on each side
7) These are the fan connectors that are causing the issue. Mine were brown/green and damp (not good for electricity)
8) Using wire cutters, cut as close as possible to the "black" connector on each side to remove it. You will have 4 wires left, 2 from the backboard and two from the shelf (both having a red and black)
9) Take some of the sheath (cover) off of each wire
10) Take the red wire from the backboard and the red wire from the shelf and twist the metal portion together
11) Cover w/ electrical tape!!! Or you will have the same e3/e4 issue
12) Repeat step 10 and 11 for the black wires
13) Move onto the "white" connector and repeat steps 8 - 12
14) Put the backboard and shelf back in the fridge. Be careful not to pull the backboard and shelf apart or your connection may come apart
15) As you slide the shelf in, make sure the wires you disconnected in step 5 are in the "channel" on the side of the shelf or the shelf won't slide properly.
16) Reattached the 4 connectors and then re-attach the backboard and the shelf with the screws
17) Plug the fridge back in
18) Put the metal shelves and wine back in
" Sucks that a $0.10 piece of heatshrink on the connectors could avoid this...? Bad Design.

Magic Chef... | Answered on Jul 18, 2020


Check with an appliance parts supplier to find something that will work. Contact Magic Chef with your control panel removal question.

Magic Chef... | Answered on Jul 08, 2020


local repair shop might help you figure it out i never saw one

Magic Chef... | Answered on Jul 05, 2020


I don't know. While half a century ago it was common that pilot lights would be permanently lit to provide instant lighting of oven and hobs, because they did consume a significant amount of gas they fell out of favour and spark ignition became reliable.

Amid a number of related and unrelated accidents the gas oven began to be seen as potentially dangerous and so they were fitted with a couple of safety devices so for a considerable time the pilot light has to be relit every time the oven is used and the pilot light will be switched off when the oven burners are turned off.

Thinking back a long time, the pilots of our old cooker could be turned off using a screwdriver to turn a central service valve hidden under the hob spill tray.

Magic Chef... | Answered on Jun 27, 2020


same problem w mine and yes if you take the cover off the inside display you will be able to remove the board mine has a hole burnt in it.unplug harness w red blue and brown wires and jump and jump from brown to red unit will turn on you need a new board

Magic Chef... | Answered on May 18, 2020


The diode converts the A/C power output of the transformer to D/C, doubling the voltage to nearly 5,000 volts. This high voltage powers the magnetron to heat the food. If the diode burns out, the magnetron won't receive enough voltage to operate, preventing the microwave from heating. When the diode fails, it is often visibly burned out. Inspect the diode and if the diode is burned out, replace it. If inspecting the diode proves inconclusive, test it with a multimeter that uses a 9-volt battery or put a 9-volt battery in series with the diode. When the leads are reversed, the diode should only have continuity in one direction. (Warning: The microwave oven can store a lethal amount of electricity in its high voltage capacitor, even after the microwave oven has been unplugged. Due to the high running voltage and the potential for electric shock, it is extremely dangerous to replace the electronic components in a microwave. Only a licensed technician should replace the diode.)

Magic Chef... | Answered on May 13, 2020


It depends on the brand and model.

Normally it's a sequence like:

CLOCK > 1 > 2 > 3 > CLOCK

CLOCK > 1 > 2 > 3 > START

CLOCK > CLEAR > 1 > 2 > 3 > CLOCK

CLOCK > CLEAR > 1 > 2 > 3 > START

If not, please post a new inquiry with your correct brand and model.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer

Magic Chef... | Answered on May 11, 2020


As it is brand new you should not be fiddling with it as it is likely to invalidate the warranty - if it doesn't work as it should you should immediately call the supplier, which is who your contract is with.

Could be the manufacturer forgot to add lubricant and the compressor seized or perhaps the motor start winding is damaged - whatever the problem is, it shouldn't be yours.

Magic Chef... | Answered on Apr 30, 2020


I, too, have just seen (late June 2013) the "HH" code on my Magic Chef wine cooler (and it is running too cold and I can't reset the temperature). Have you found a solution since your posting of about 1 year ago?

Magic Chef... | Answered on Apr 24, 2020


Did you end up finding the manual?

Magic Chef Ovens | Answered on Apr 19, 2020


Fridge not starting?CLICKING? FIRSTALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts.

MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ONTHE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> ? BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECKURCOLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION
A BAD DEFROST TIMER though seldom CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER.

to check thedefrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click.

Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS.
And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Some fridges are now using ADC boards.

Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.Theyare normally found in same locations as the timer would be but look somewhat different in appearance. It is more difficult to test these units without the appliance schematic.
Some ADC / control boards control other functions of the refrigerator, too, such asicemakingand electrical air damper door opening andclosing.Thedefrost frequency may also be shortened under certain circumstances.


AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor.Check with an OHMS meterfor continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked forMicrofares.( if in series with the windings)

If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold controlthermostat ( in the fridge compartment)with an alligator jumper.You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms-If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.

To checkurcompressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, sometimes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes tourstart winding, 1 goes tourrun winding and the center goes tourground or COM

Placeurmeter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prongagin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total ofurtwo separate test. 9 ohms, if they matchurok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms, u have a short inurcompressor. It should show infinity
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.


TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) Thekit includes relay, capacitor, andoverload device, pre-wired. Thekit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use?proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection


http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L80Fk5had4 defrost timer









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Magic Chef... | Answered on Mar 29, 2020

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