Lutron Electrical Supplies - Page 5 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals
I installed a Lutron LG
The correct way to wire this switch is the wire that was on the gold or dark colored screw of the old three way switch is called the shunt or common terminal. The wire connected to this terminal is to be connected to the black wire of the three way dimmer. The other two wires are connected to the silver or light colored terminals of the switch. These are the traveler terminals. The traveler wires may be connect to either traveler terminal - it does not matter which.
If you have already disconnected the old switch, simply connect the dimmer wires to the house wires as shown top to bottom in each configuration below until you get it to work as expected:
Config1 Config2 Config3
B R R B R R B R R Dimmer Wires: B = Black R= Red R = Red
R W B B R W W R B House Wires: R = Red W= White B= Black
In two configurations or less, you'll have found the correct wiring for the switch. I hope this helps & good luck! Please rate my reply. Thank you.
I have an older Lutron system - the Maestro
Hard a hard time finding it too. Found an old instruction sheet lying around:
Step 1) Turn the Dimmer On
Step 2a) Press & hold the Dimmer's tap button. LEDs will blink one at a time, from the bottom up to the top. After approximately 8-seconds, the LEDs will start to cylce slowly from top to bottom (setup mode). CONTINUE to hold the tap button and go to step 2b.
Step 2b) Press and hold the "ON" button on the Wireless Controller (MRF-VCTX).
Step 2c) Once the dimmer learns the wireless controller, the LEDs on the dimmer will cycle quickly from top to bottom. Release the dimmer's tap button to exit set-up mode, and release the wireless controller's on button.
Repeat steps 1-2c for each additional dimmer.
Good luck!
4/24/2011 4:11:04 PM •
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290 views • 1 helpful votes
Have 3 or 4 Maestro
No, they're not supposed to be flickering, regardless of the light-level. I can't think of why a power outage would cause the lights to flicker all of a sudden. My first suggestion, check the lamps - make sure they're incandescent or line-voltage halogen lamps. If they're CFL or LED, then flicker (particularly at low-end) isn't just possible - it's likely. Other sources of flicker - sometimes the power companies install new metering equipment that throws some jitter on the line that cause issues - not much you can do about that unfortunately. My primary suggestion is to call tech support at 1-800-523-9466. It's free, they're available 24/7, and can probably offer more suggestions than what's available through doing this over a web-site.
4/14/2011 5:42:41 PM •
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273 views • 0 helpful votes
I have a 600 watt 1 pole Diva dimmer controlling
First of all, in general, dimmers (even at their highest setting) cause the lights to dim even a little bit. If you are doing a 1-for-1 comparison, you may notice a difference - but honestly, it shouldn't be THAT dramatic that you're able to notice it.
My first suggestion is to double-check the model number. There's a version of Diva with a "G" in the model number (DV-603PG-) which was designed with a lower-high-end light level than normal (designed to guarantee extra energy-savings).
If the model number checks out, my next suggestion is to upgrade to a spec-grade product (like an NT-600-WH). The commercia/specification grade products have a higher high-end than the residential grade products. It still will dim the lights a little bit, but will be better.
After that, I suggest calling tech support at 1-800-523-9466 for more suggestions. Its a free call and they're available 24/7.
I replaced a standard single
Hello. There could be a couple of possibilities. First is the simplest to verify, is it a Companion Dimmer, Standard Dimmer switches or a 600W or 1000W Maestro Wireless Multi-location Dimmer. The Maestro Companion Dimmers can not be used individually, as they do not control a load, and must be used along with a Maestro or Maestro Wireless Multi-location Dimmer. The Campanion Dimmers are also a line/low voltage rating, and rated for incandescent and halogen but may not handle some flourescent fixtures. The other thing I can think of is that you may have interfearence from another item. They are radio frequency (RF) devices that communicate together for wireless control of lights. Here's two links that may be of some help, the second has downloadable install instructions.
http://www.smarthome.com/6601LA/Lutron-MA-R-LA-Maestro-Companion-Dimmer-Switch-Light-Almond/p.aspx
http://www.prolighting.com/lumamaprsmre.html
Hope this helps out, don't forget to rate this answer.
Thank You,
Richard
3/14/2011 8:58:39 PM •
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357 views • 0 helpful votes
We have 9 dimmers 2 - 20 amp circuits, each
The best thing you can do is call Lutron's tech support. It is a 24-hour, 7-day/week service and its free.
Having said that,
If the lights dim every 12-to-25 seconds, it tells me that something's effecting the line-voltage of the circuit. Sharing neutrals between two-lighting circuits is a common culprit, but I'm also wondering if there are other devices running off of those circuits besides the lighting. So what I'd recommend:
1) Try running both circuits off of the same phase in the breaker panel. Actually, at 7.9-Amps & 4.5-Amps (I'm assuming that's what you meant), you should be able to run them off of the same breaker. If that fixes the problem, your issue was most likely common neutral interaction. Solve by running a separate neutral... or... if you can swing it (assuming there are no other loads) leave it on that breaker.
2) Upgrade to a spec-grade dimmer like the NT-600-WH. The spec-grade products will compensate for line-voltage fluctuations that may occur from other devices that cause the line sag or un-sag.
Again, those are two base-level suggestions, but use tech support to take it a step further.
I have always used a lutron maestro dimmer. I
You should have just two wires plus a ground hooked up to the dimmer. It should install just like the maestro. If you are getting no lights with a double tap, or tap and hold, and if the led is not on, it is one of several things. Most are basic, but will list anyway. Check that your connections are good. Make sure you have power there. Make sure the bulbs are good. If all is fine, you probably have a defective dimmer if it worked prior to this. To test, take the dimmer out, restore power, and carefully touch one insulated wire to the other one. If the light comes on, it is the dimmer at fault.
3/6/2011 3:37:07 PM •
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416 views • 1 helpful votes
Can I use the NGRXPB with a standard line voltage
No. There are some specific model numbers of dimmers that work with this (the MAELV-600- for example). There are some other interfaces out there that might be more compatible. I recommend calling tech support at 1-800-523-9466 to get the most up-to-date info.
3/24/2011 11:30:49 PM •
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New installation of Luton tg603pg dimmer - lights
No problem, merely a misunderstanding. That's actually the point of that product (the 'g' in the model number was the clue). This is their "eco-dim" line of products, and its specifically designed to not let the lights go over 85% light level. Its a means of using the dimmer to help guarantee energy savings and lamp life extension.
If this bothers you, then I would return it and grab one that doesn't have the "g" in the model number.
2/4/2011 3:31:28 PM •
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429 views • 2 helpful votes
My 3 way dimmer is
Change the dimmer or reduce the load, you are controlling 750 watts with a 600w dimmer. That is a 25% excess in load, no wonder that it is getting hot!
Can a Lutron AYF-103P ARIADNI FLUOR control two
Hi,
Since this dimmer is a 3-way, it can control more than one light. Assuming there is one ballast in each light, I'd say Yes.
One thing you should know is that if you have more than 2 switches in the circuit, only the 2 end switches are 3-way, the ones between should be 4-way.
I've also heard that dimmers do not last very long on 3-way circuits, however it's built to be a 3-way, so it should work fine.
Hope this helps, if it does, please place a vote for me.
Thanks,
Handie Andie
I have two black
This is single-pole -or- 3-way dimmer
Manual shows on following link:
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/0301107A.pdf1) Manual says: The red/white wire is not used in a single-pole application. Twist a wire
nut over this wire for a single-pole application.
2) Green wire connects to bare ground wire. Or bare ground to bare ground.
3) Connect dimmer-red and dimmer-black to either insulated wire that came off of old switch
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I turned power off to
Did you remove the dimmer switch or alter the wiring whilst putting the ceiling fan control in the wall? If so you have obviously wired it back up the incorrect way. How many original wires were at the light/dimmer switch. Will need to know colours etc?
I have Lutron Maestro switches
The best thing you can do is call Lutron's tech support at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and get probably point you in a better direction than being able to diagnose / troubleshoot over e-mail / this forum. Generally speaking, I don't think they will replace your plastics. It is possible for it to get worn over time - but that could be the plastic, or it could be the buttons within the unit. Either way, like I said, they probably won't recommend anything to repair the unit, but you can request that they replce it - especially if its only been in use for 3-5 years.
Bought a house with lutron slide dimmer switches,
I wouldn't spend a lot of time trying to hunt it down yourself. Call the tech support number at 1-800-523-9466. First of all, they're there 24/7. If its the wrong size knob then it sounds like you just need some help matching up model numbers. If you can find the model number on the dimmer itself, that will help - but call them up and they'll probably just send you the parts you need.
2/18/2011 6:51:47 PM •
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Dimmer switch gets very hot while on even though
This is a common concern with dimmers, but if you're seeing no issue with the actual lighting performance, then what you are experiencing is completely normal. Most of the heat that people notice comes from the screws that attach the faceplate, in which case my recommendation is to get a faceplate that covers up the screws. If that doesn't answer your concern, then call Lutron's tech support center at 1-800-523-9466 (available 24/7) and they can walk you through any troubleshooting you may need.
12/22/2010 4:13:16 PM •
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748 views • 3 helpful votes
I have a lutron skylark
It is neither - it is rated for incandescent lamps only. It sounds like someone suggested that your puck ligths are being controlled by electronic low-voltage transformers, in which case, if you wanted to stick to the Skylark family, should be an SELV-300P-WH.
If you're not sure about any of this, I suggest calling Lutron's tech support line. It's at 1-800-523-9466, they're available 24/7, and can double-check the recommendation.
I bought a Hunter fan
They're right, you don't want to control the whole thing with a single incandescent dimmer. First of all, the fan-speed and the lights will all be controlled by the same dimmer setting (dim low, low fan-speed - dim high, high fan-speed) - and the dimmer's not rated to control fans anyway which can result in exactly what they said.
There is a Skylark control, the S2-LFSQ- where half the knob controls the light, the other half controls the fan. The only problem you may (and most likely) have is that in order for that to work, between the electrical box for the dimmer and the fan, there needs to be seaparate wire run for the fan, and a separate wire run for the light so that the dimmer can individual control both.
If that's a problem, I recommend the MA-LFQM-, which includes a module that you install in the ceiling with the fan. The wall switch it comes with speaks to that module, and gives you independent control of the fan and light without having to install new wiring. I have one of those myself, I've installed one in one of my friend's houses, and they work pretty well and then you don't have to worry about what wires you've got in your wall.
I AM REPLACING A 3
The other switch should only be changing from one wire being hot when it is in the up position to a second wire being hot when it is in the down position. Then the new dimmer should be hot on one terminal when the other switch is up and on a different terminal when it is down.
I'm not sure how the Leviton dimmer works, though.
Gary
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