Lutron Electrical Supplies - Page 4 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

All ground wires should be connected together. If the metal switch box has no visible ground wires in the cable assembly itself, then there is nothing to connect. It is possible that if the cables consist of an armored or metal jacket that it is providing an earth ground. The clamp that holds the armored cable in the switch box provides the continuity of the ground path in to the box and out again on any other armored cable(s). You can install a short 3/8" #10 x 32 machine screw into one of the drilled and pretapped holes in the box that is designed to provide a way to bond the ground conductor to the box. Screws like the one below are designed for this, but you can use any screw you like that fits.A green, hex head #10 x 32 ground screw for switch boxes.If the box is a non-metalic type and there is no metal clamps connecting armored cables or ground wires inside and bonded to the box, then there is no connection to be made. If the wire on the dimmer is insulated, either cut off the stripped end or place a wirenut over the end and fold the wire into the rear of the box - out of the way. If it is bare, carefully fold to the rear of the box and make sure it does not contact any live conductors. There will be no need to access it again unless installing the switch elsewhere, later.

most switches come with diagrams, if you are replacing one keep track of where the wires wereif you are installing a new wiring circuit it really depends on the number of switches

Usually this is indicative that you have a 3-way lighting circuit, but only a single-pole dimmer. For most lighting circuits, the red wire and one of the black wires are supposed to be run over to a second light switch. You need dimmer rated as a "3-way" in order for that to work. If you get stuck, I would call the manufacturer's tech support number at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and it will not cost you anything.

YOU NEED TO REEMPLACE THE DIMMER, SOMETIMES SWICHTS GET DUST IT AND CORROSIVE SPECIALLY IF ITS OLD.

As long as the wattage of your lights is not over 600 watts

If you are dimming it, use:
MS-OP600M-WH & MA-R-WH

If you are only planning on switching it, use:
MS-OPS6M-DV-WH & MA-AS-WH

Electricians use the 80% rule.
When watt rating is 1000, we say 800 watts maximum. Same for wire ratings, and circuit breaker ratings, switch ratings, etc. 80% rule is the rule for electricians.
The closer you run a device at full load, the warmer it gets and the more quickly the device fails.
The signal that a dimmer is failing is heat.
I suggest replacing 1000watt dimmer with 1500watt dimmer, or reducing load.
All dimmers get warm, but should not be hot. 1500watt dimmers usually have aluminum fins on the face to dissipate heat. So 1500watt dimmers look different than 1000watt dimmers.
If you reduce load, and 1000watt dimmer still gets hot with reduced load, then dimmer has gone bad.

I do not know what happened.
Check the circuit breaker.
The electrician is probably asking somebody else right now, because tradespeople want to know everything about their trade to expand skill and make money easier.
Lutron has customer support number for you and the electrician:
1-800-523-9644
Calling Lutron might narrow down what product you have, and isolate problem.
Once exact product is known, this will be helpful for the electrician.
Plus you can re-post a question on fixya, and expert will look up that product and give possible help. This will also help you double-check the electrician.
Between Lutron, the electrician, and fixya, a solution is probably reachable.

Yes the Juno will work great with the Lutron interface. I have hooked up many together and have not had a problem yet with them. Have not been called back to any job yet that I put them in on.

You want toggle switch that mimics operation of pushbutton, except you want SPDT.
For example doorbell button is a momentary SPST
http://www.mrsupply.com/leviton-5657-2w-double-throw-ctr-off-momentary-contact-switch.html
http://www.csnlighting.com/Legrand-TM811DTMOBK-LEE1616.html

For others finding this thread: Many people want double throw switch for 240V, thinking they have to turn off both hot legs of 240V circuit.
240v can be turned off by cutting power to one hot leg.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

no it shouldnt it should just wire up to the wires already there you may want to add a little more detail to your question its kinda grey

if your breaker keeps tripping you ether have to many amps running or a wire came loose good luck

I'm somewhat confused because the model number you mentioned isn't designed to handle two separate lighting loads. That said...

My best guess is that something happened with the loads that you are controlling. Did you change light bulbs recently or switch to a different type of lamp - because it sounds like you're having a minimum load issue. The dimmer keeps itself powered up by charging its electronic power supply through the light fixture. But I think it only charges through one of them. So if that one output has too little lighting load on it, the dimmer might not get charged up adequately and give you the issues you're experiencing. The fix would be to increase the lighting load.

That's just a guess, if you want it thoroughly diagnosed, I would contact the manufacturer's tech support center at 1-800-523-9466 - they're available 24/7 and it won't cost you anything.

Umm...
We're having some confusion on the terminology here which is why I don't think anyone's responded so far.

Let's start here:
In the United States, there are three types of wiring circuits: single-pole, 3-way, and 4-way
Internationally, those same three types are instead referred to as: single-pole, 2-way, 3-way

So, when you say that you want to replace a 2-way wall switch, and replace it with a 3-way programmable timer - I think we're talking about the same type of wiring configuration - so yes, it should work.

The only thing you need to look at is that if this is a 2-way/3-way circuit, then chances are that there is another light switch that controls the same fixture, correct? Some programmable timers do not work with standard, 3-way toggle switches in the other location, you may want to investigate what is required at that spot. I would contact the manufacturer of the timer switch you're using for more information.

Older dimmer switches use rheostats to adjust the resistant loads on the switch. Since this is a mechanical operation, over time they become loose or corroded. So it sounds like this has happened to your dimmer switch and you should replace it with a more modern switch that isn't as mechanical.

There's not a lot of detail in this question, but I'll give it a shot. For the AB-600M-, you do not need a neutral connection at all. In fact, this should wire up like any every-day light switch. What's probably confusing you is that there's probably a blue screw on there. If you're using this in a single-pole application, you don't attach anything to the blue-screw. If you're using this in a 3-way application, the blue screw is used as one of the traveller wires to the other location.

I think that's the best I can do with the information given. My suggestion is for you to call the manufacturer's tech support at 1-800-523-9466 - the're available 24/7 and can help you out a lot faster than an on-line forum every would.

Let's start whittling away some of the information...

First of all, the ZP260QE is from Lightolier,so you may want to give their tech support center a call.
Secondly, ignore the continuity tests, they tell you nothing. Continuity on the secondary is expected because you're on the output of a "true" transformer, which will look like a short on a DC-supplied continuity test. The input to an ELECTRONIC transformers is a switching power supply, which will not look like anything when supplied by a DC voltage/current during a continuity test. Those test results appear normal to me. The +/- 60 also makes sense, if you've measuring voltages on the output of a dimmer, the impedance of the dimmer's off-state and the impedence of the multi-meter makes for some screwy readings that don't always make sense.

Most dimmers rated for electronic low-voltage have protection circuitry built within them to make sure they're not overloaded. Normal incandescent dimmers will just get warmer than usual, these guys should shut down - perhaps that's what you're seeing.

My two suspiciions are either (a) the additional pendent light, combined with the existing track lights, tripped the overload protection, or (b) when you added the pendent light, you got too much of a current inrush that shorted out the components within the dimmer.

Since the product is as old as it is, I can't find instruction sheets for it on-line anymore. Your best bet is to call the manufacturer directly. They're at 1-800-523-9466 - its available 24/7 and can help you out than an online forum like this ever could.

I looked, it doesn't look like the documentation of this product is supported on-line anywhere. Frankly, I don't know if it ever was.

I would call Lutron's tech support center at 1-800-523-9466, available 24/7. They should be able to e-mail you something.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/0301122A.pdf

On the first page, its the wiring diagram smack-dab in the middle.
If you couldn't find it before, its because the MAW-603-RH-WH is a package containing two other products, the MA-600 and the MA-R. So the instructions I have noted above are appropriate.