Legacy Audio Car Audio & Video - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
I went over a bump and heard a pop over the
Well if you have checked wiring and such then I would imagine there is a circuit related problem with the amp. If it doesn't power up at all check the solder joints arround the power supply caps, you may even see where by discoloration of the PCB. The bump you hit could have cause a momentary short in the high current power supply and in turn blown a trace on the PCB open. Just my thoughts. Good luck
Son had amp installed.
It is very possible and even likely that the amp was damaged. If the unit is under warranty I would consider trying to have it replaced under warranty. If you need further assistance please let me know.
Thank you,
lee
I have the subs hooked up to the amp and the
LETS SEE IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE AMPLIFIER ITSELF OR IF SOMETHING IN THE INSTALL
REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS, THEN POWER THE AMPLIFIER UP WITH THIS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL GOES INTO PROTECTION OR FAILS TO POWER UP AND YOU HAVE VERIFIED THAT THE POSITIVE AND ESPECIALLY THE GROUND CONNECTIONS, ALONG WITH THE REMOTE CONNECTIONS ARE 100%, THEN THE AMPLIFIER WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED. SOMETIMES THE RADIO CAN HAVE A DEFECTIVE SAGGING BELOW 11 VOLTS REMOTE OUTPUT WHICH WILL CAUSE THE AMPLIFIER TO NOT POWER UP. IF YOU DISCONNECT THE RADIOS REMOTE LEAD AT THE AMPLIFIER AND TEMPORARILY INSTALL A JUMPER FROM THE POSITIVE POWER TERMINAL AND THE REMOTE TERMINAL OF THE AMPLIFIER, THIS WILL NORMALLY FORCE THE AMPLIFIER ON. AT THIS POINT,YOU HAVE TOTALLY BENCHED THE AMPLIFIER AS IT WILL NOT HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE ACTUAL INSTALLATION AND IF STILL FAULTY IT SIMPLY WILL HAVE TO BE SERVICED. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V
I have a 2500 watt legacy ice amp and im tryin to
If you amp is 1 ohm stable you can run + to +, - to - on each voice coil. Wire them into the box. Run +'s to +'s on amp, - to - on amp
Other wise. If it is a 2 ohm stable amp, you run two 4 ohm dual voice coils to the amp + -, + -
If the subwoofers are 2 ohm, run + - on only one voice coil to the box for each and run + -, +- for 2 ohm load on amp or + - bridged for 1 ohm load.
I hope that makes sense.
Subs and amp dont work
His amp probably blew your fuse. Check that you have 12V at the power connections. If you don't, then find the fuse in your positive wiring to the amp. If you do have 12V to the amp, check your remote power up also has 12V between that and the negative line when your head unit is on. If it doesn't, then it's probably an internal fuse in your remote switch on line inside your head unit caused by a fault in your friends amp. This is normally accessible at the back of the head unit.
R40 piece is missing is that a problem
Hello crzykd129,
If a piece of a resistor has broken off, it's value has changed which affects other things in the circuit. It needs to be replaced with a new component to restore proper operation. The remaining portion is being severly overburdened everytime you power it on and it's just a matter of time until it causes some other part to fail.
Resistors are generic so try locating it by resistance value (indicated by the color coded bands), and wattage and replace it. Here's a source for all types of
electronic components.
Hope this helps.
Doesnt turn on
Three things to check.
Are all connections secure? Check and double check this.
Is there 12V coming to the 'remote lead?' Use a 12V meter from your local Walmart to test when the deck is turned on there is power going to this lead. No power and the amp will not turn on.
If there an inline fuse on the Power or Battery + that has blown? If so check and change this.
Want turn on
DID YOU CONNECT THE BLUE REMOTE LEAD FROM THE HEAD UNIT
Protect Mode
Your probably not pusing enough wattage to the amp. Look into buying a capacitor for your set up. and you may need to run a thicker guage wire to your amp.
Not finding what you are looking for?