Krups Kitchen Appliances - Others - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Krups Blender 577 replacement of rubber coupling
Krups Blender 577 - first try it not easy but next time it will be.
Replacing the rubber coubling is extremely difficult with this model.
After almost destroying the air in/outtake grill on the side in pursuit of a good lock of the axe, I tried so hard to use a nose plier to grab the post and unscrew the coupling counter-clockwise but it just didn't fit (it needs to be long and narrow/needle like). So I ended up cutting off rubber on the coupling and also cutting of plastic from the black plastic cover which is just under the rubber coupling. In the end I was able to cut that plastic and remove it so that I could actually take off the whole casing (you need a torx 20 with a hole in it to unsrew the 4 bits at the bottom underneath the rubber stands) with the rubber coupling still attached and detach two power cables so that I had much more space to properly grab the post and then it was very very easy to unscrew it counter-clockwise. But up until then I lost my insanity twice :-).
Now I know how to so the next time will be easier.
Error code E3 on Krups RK7011 rice cooker
It's the wires going to temp sensor in lid. Take the drip catcher off and remove the screw on the plastic plate by the hinge, remove the black plastic cover and you will probably find that the screw had been driven through the wires at the factory.
My Krups FLF2 kettle leaks at the bottom of the handle
This is a known issue with Krups kettles. If you are a handy person then you can remove the base and use a high temp gasket maker (auto shops have it) to add to existing silicone seal which goes bad after a couple of years.
Krups kettle leaks at base of pot
Unfortunately it's unfixable. A few recent Philips models do it as well and it's worst in hard water areas. Basically the cause is that a tiny bit of water gets into the bottom seam each time the kettle is used and leaves a residue behind when it dries out. Over time, the residue builds up and forces the seam apart so the leak gets worse.
All you can realistically do is hope that it's still under warranty and demand that Krups replace it, preferably with a different model. If they won't then you may have to exert whichever consumer rights exist in your country, but one way or another you need to stop using your kettle (it's dangerous!) and replace it with another.
Krups toaster won't work.
I do not know the exact inner workings of this toaster, but I can suggest what the fault may be. Many of the toasters use a separate high power section in the eating element for toasting. This part of the element could have gone defective. There is the possibility the computer board that directs the power for the higher temperature mode for toasting has failed. The only reliable way to know is to try the computer board, element assembly, or the switches if the switches are on a separate module than the computer board.Just to add... These toaster units usually have a thermo protection fuse. These fuses have a temperature rating. It would be in series with the element. This fuse may have failed. This is a common fault in many of these types of units. This type of fuse is rated in Degrees C or F, and not in Amps. it is a thermo fuse.
4/2/2017 6:24:14 PM •
on Apr 02, 2017
Krups FDE3-12 Need part break down veiw so I can order part
I found this on a review site
waynedude's Full Review: Krups FDE3-12 Sandwich Maker
Well, this product makes great panini! You can use it to make just about any sandwich very special. If you use really fresh ingredients, the results are as good as at any market in Italy (that is where I got hooked on these). It not only makes Panini, but can be used to grill chicken, hamburgers, sausage, etc, and then throw in the buns before assembling for a gourmet treat.
I got mine as a Christmas gift and used it at least weekly for about 6 months till I moved, and had to pack it for a while. When I got it out of storage (January the next year) it worked for only 4 times, then just stopped. It wouldn't heat; lights wouldn't come on, nothing worked!
I called the local Krups repair site, and they told me if it was over 1 year old, throw it away and buy another. I was royally upset! Appliances that cost over $100 should not fail in 6 months of use! In the old days, a repair shop could fix anything, and they would never tell you to throw it away.
Well, I went to Amazon and read the many similar stories of short life, and sudden failure and realized I was out of luck. After the one year warranty expires, the repair places (who normally would just get a new warranty replacement from Krups and have it sent to you) won't touch it.
Having nothing to lose, I removed the single Phillips screw in the center of the underside of the unit and opened up the unit. The griddle surface separates from the stainless base once this screw is removed. In here I saw a device which looks like a resistor held in place by two small clamps inside a clear plastic tube. I plugged the unit in and tested the voltage across the terminals of this device, and it read 125V. I knew immediately that this was the problem, as it was preventing the entire unit from getting voltage. I disassembled the clamps and slid the tube off, then cut the part off of the two wires.
Looking on the web, I found out the part is a simple and very common "heat fuse", intended to break the circuit if the thermostat (located in the top half) failed and the unit started to melt down or overheat.
This device does not reset once the unit cools, but sacrifices itself. When it exceeds 240 degrees centigrade, it disconnects power to the unit permanently and must be replaced. This is the reason so many people have had failures.
Either the unit runs hotter than the designers anticipated (most likely), the current is too high (doubtful as the unit draws 1500 Watts, 750W per side and the device is rated for 15 Amps at 120 Volts. 1500W only draws 12.5 Amps, so that is well below the 15 Amp capacity of the component), or it was a faulty component. Considering that these components are used in a huge number of heating appliances, it is most likely that the designed temperature for this component is too high. Here is an excerpt from the manufacturers web site:
“The temperatures experienced during normal operation, including expected temperature overshoots, will determine the life expectancy of the TCO. Nuisance trips can result if the thermal cutoff rating is too close to the temperatures experienced during normal operation (this is probably what happens!). Continuous temperatures above 200∞C will cause the sealing compound to weaken and ultimately fail. In addition, as shown in figure 4, each thermal cutoff calibration has a maximum temperature overshoot rating (TM). Overshoot temperatures above this rating may cause dielectric breakdown of the thermal cutoff and allow reconduction to occur. See Therm-O-Disc’s MICROTEMPæ Thermal Cutoff Technical Bulletin for more information.
The safest way to repair the unit is to replace the failed temperature fuse. It is made by Therm-O-Disc and is a Microtemp model G4A00240C. You can find these on the web for about $6.00 (or free if you request a sample from Therm-O-Disc on their web site). You will need a crimp tool and some bare crimps to crimp the wires to the new temperature fuse. I just used some bare (non insulated!) crimp spade lugs and cut off the spade part (Radio Shack or any auto parts store). Do not use insulated spade lugs as the insulation will melt under these temperature extremes. When you dissemble it in the first place, take a picture of the insides before you start unscrewing and cutting. Then you will know exactly how to reassemble the parts. As the positioning of the temp sensor is critical, make sure when you reassemble, you do it exactly the same way it was (direction of the clamps holding the wire and temp fuse, etc).
As my patience was thin after speaking to the Krups repair facility, I took the unsafe route and simply bypassed this component (cut it out and crimped the two wires together). All works perfectly now. As I never plan on leaving the unit unattended, I am not too worried about the temperature fuse not being there (worst case, the thermostat gives out and the heating unit melts the griddle, which will drip into the stainless steel housing, short out the power, and blow a breaker.) I do not recommend the later solution, as the UL listing will be compromised.
If you take the safe route, you should buy a few of these temperature fuse units, as the design problem is not corrected by replacing the part, and it may only last a few months before you have to do it again. When you crimp the component in, make sure you do a good job (tight crimp), if you can pull the wires out of the crimp with your hands, you didn’t crimp hard enough. If this happens, the poor connection will generate its own heat and cause the temperature fuse to trip.
Remember, all of these components are subject to very high temperatures, so do not attempt to “lengthen the wire” or use electrical tape, or solder to make the connection. Unless you have materials rated for 240 degrees C, do not use them in the repair. You can use solder but only in addition to a good crimp.
Well, I am back to making great Panini and didn’t have to buy anything! I am a happy camper! Cheers.
P.S. Yes, the unit is not easy to clean (read other reviews) and the clip which holds it closed to carry it is weak, but otherwise, it works well. I am sure other units have their own set of problems.
Good luck! I hope this helps some people!
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