KitchenAid Ovens - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

These tend to crack and "unzip" because they are such a tight circle... Kill the power, and meter the ring element for ohm's resistance. If the element tests ok, check the wires to the element for overheating, and if those look fine, remove the control board and look for burnt solder joints where the relays are mounted. Multimeter DM10T

If you mean the probe icon will not leave the display, you need to be sure the probe jack is not coated with food residue that is grounding it, if it is clean- send the control in for rebuild. Help Me Find My Model Number RepairClinic com

You have a bad touchpad. The ribbon cable is a failure point on all of these whirlpool built ovens. Enter the model number in at this link and see if they make a replacement keypad for your oven: Introducing the Ledgestone Technologies Touchpad

The glass cover does come off. Use some latex gloves or non skid material and grasp the lens firmly and turn counter clockwise. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

KEBC208 Parts List It's a parts store, but it also has all of the diagrams.

You probably need service. ...

I had the same problem on my parents Kitchenaid KEMS378GWH0 oven, the door would only close enough to keep the light on. They propped a chair against it to cook. My father replaced the hinges and it worked for about a week. He noticed that pulling outward on the door at the very bottom edge often allowed it to close enough to use.
After completely dismantling the oven to get access to the brackets that the hinges slide into, we found it was not broken. We decided to expand on the only near solution we had and find a way to make the bottom of the door 'push out'. Our solution was very simple. Remove the small metal plate that covers the door insulation. This revealed that the insulation is a braided hollow rope that is held in by small clips that push through holes in the front of the oven. We threaded some small metal rods about 3/8 inch in diameter into the hollow insulation pushed the clips back in to re-attach the insulation, replaced the metal cover plate.
It worked!

here is my video might help you.

http://www.fixyourboard.com/boards/8303017.html

You may have a blown thermal fuse in series with the heating elements. If the oven exceeded the maximum allowable temperature during self-clean, the fuse will open. See this discussion: Oven Failure After Self Clean and F1 Errors

First check that the fan itself has not failed. If the fan and wiring are ok, your EOC (electronic oven control) has failed. This is NLA (no longer availabe). The Whirlpool part number is 3187895. This can be rebuilt: See: http://www.fixyourboard.com/boards/3187895.html

There is a technical description here that may help you: Whirlpool Oven Common Problems and Causes

Usually this is a problem related to the meat probe jack or the wiring to it. If not the cause, next in line is the control board, part number: 8302346. We can rebuild this board for you. See: http://www.fixyourboard.com/boards/8302346.html for details and Fix your board Repair control boards for home appliances for a shipping form.

Hello. Most often, any problems with the door opening or closing involves the hinge assemblies being damaged in some way. The part number for the pack of 2 hinges(right/left) is 8303989. I hope this helps you!

F1 DOOR SWITCH F2 KEYPAD F3 TEMPERATURE SENSOR F4 MEAT PROBE SHORTED F8 SELF CLEAN LATCH PROBLEM All other errors, replace the main oven control

the door needs to be removed first

thats hinges replacement job in my video.

thats how I did my hinge replacement

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