KitchenAid Kitchen Ranges - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

It's a "Dual Fuel" range, i.e., the oven is electric.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Dec 24, 2020 | 81 views

can you tell me the complete model # off the stove? i will try and find the parts instructions for you.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Nov 27, 2020 | 132 views

That is probably the SAbb code; the Sabbath mode has been set. This mode allows you to heat a meal while fulfilling the "no work" requirement for strict observance of the Sabbath. The oven will stay at the programmed temperature until you change the temperature or end the Sabbath mode. To end the Sabbath mode, open the oven door and press and hold 6 for 5+ seconds. Then close the oven door.

Searching Kitchenaid's support site, , I found the manual for the KESC307 ranges here: . The direct link to the manual is . See page 18-19 for the information on the Sabbath mode. You can completely disable the option on the range by following the steps in the manual.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

KitchenAid... | Answered on Aug 26, 2020 | 25 views

This is a recurring problem with certain KitchenAid ranges. I have a 15 year old dual fuel 36" range and have replaced the temp sensor twice, and now it has gone out again. $8,000 piece of junk the oven has been used. RARELY in 15 years.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Jun 21, 2020 | 572 views

hopefull yyou havent disconnect old switch yet. whirpool and kit aid are same Co. same parts used. assuming the correct part was sent for the corrrect burner. diffrerent element will require different rated swties(ie. small , large, dual and so forth.), the indivudal switches are labeled, on the swithc itself ( L1,L2,H1 H2, P1 andso forth, so although the switches looke differnet they should stil have the same lettered terminal to plug into .

KitchenAid... | Answered on Mar 15, 2020 | 702 views

I plugged in the probe and stuck it into a pyrex measuring cup of water, set the probe temp to 165, set the convection (or bake) oven to 500, and turned it on. This allowed it to run for about 20 minutes, and cleaned out the probe jack. Works fine now.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 26, 2020 | 9,065 views

Try unplugging for 15 minutes. Then plug back in. That may reset the board. If not, control Board is bad

KitchenAid... | Answered on Dec 10, 2019 | 2,638 views

I didn't see an operator manual using

There were several diagrams and parts lists.

An installation manual and a toll free number to call for support is at the link below:

KitchenAid... | Answered on Oct 04, 2019 | 125 views

Have you unplugged the appliance I reset it see if that clears it

KitchenAid... | Answered on Sep 15, 2019 | 131 views

Same here. I am in trouble like that. Need to find a solution!


KitchenAid... | Answered on Sep 07, 2019 | 123 views

Good Morning, An E1-f2 E1F2 error indicates a faulty touchpad. offers replacement Ledgestone Technologies touchpads for Kitchenaid oven models. Reach out to them for more information 512-355-1108 or [email protected]

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KitchenAid... | Answered on Jun 19, 2019 | 317 views

F2 E1 is an error code that says the membrane (touch pad assembly) is not connecting to the ERC(Electronic Range Control). Call the warrantee company and give them the model number and serial number of your range and ask them if it still has a parts warrantee on the electronics. If it does, they will have to send their technician out to replace the part or parts and charge you for the labor. Your model may have the membrane and Erc all in one part, so an easy diagnosis, if it is seperate you need to make sure the membrane ribbon connector is plugged tightly into the Erc, plug your range back in, press cancel, and then retest. If it still fails then replace the membrane, test and if it fails again, replace the Erc. Before you tear into this make sure you unplug the unit for 30 minutes, plug it back in and test. Sometimes this will reset the Erc and solve your problem. If it doesn't the make sure you unplug the range before doing any repair work. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

KitchenAid... | Answered on Jun 19, 2019 | 1,290 views

REPLACE THE BAKE IGNITER !!! ( its the part that glows when you turn oven on to bake). PLEASE RATE THIS !

KitchenAid... | Answered on May 28, 2019 | 478 views

If you have tried to get the pad free from the fault code by messing with the buttons, it's probably going to have to be replaced. You nay trying to access the pad and pull the 'ribbon connector' and slide it back on, sometimes that brings them back to life. I looked up the part number for you and you can buy the new touch pad here and pop it in yourself:

Your touch pad:

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at

KitchenAid... | Answered on May 14, 2019 | 829 views

Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....

KitchenAid... | Answered on Mar 15, 2020 | 1,451 views

here is the manual.
If it is an LED bulb it may be bad. LED's tend to blink constantly when bad.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019 | 257 views

Odds are that element is bad and needs replaced some minor testing needs to be done to know for sure. I have attached a picture of the elements as they are different depending on position. #12 is the part. Sears parts direct can get you the part numbers.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 09, 2019 | 176 views

Have you tried running the exhaust fan when using the stove? Also you might try using the back burners. It sounds like the microwave is sitting too low and this may cause more issues as the time goes on.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 09, 2019 | 128 views

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