KitchenAid Kitchen Ranges - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues
Error code F 02 for Kitchenaid Dual Fuel Range
This is a recurring problem with certain KitchenAid ranges. I have a 15 year old dual fuel 36" range and have replaced the temp sensor twice, and now it has gone out again. $8,000 piece of junk the oven has been used. RARELY in 15 years.
on Jun 21, 2020
Wiring hookup for a replacement part
hopefull yyou havent disconnect old switch yet. whirpool and kit aid are same Co. same parts used. assuming the correct part was sent for the corrrect burner. diffrerent element will require different rated swties(ie. small , large, dual and so forth.), the indivudal switches are labeled, on the swithc itself ( L1,L2,H1 H2, P1 andso forth, so although the switches looke differnet they should stil have the same lettered terminal to plug into .
on Mar 15, 2020
Kitchenaid Superba - oven stopped and code F2E1 is
F2 E1 is an error code that says the membrane (touch pad assembly) is not connecting to the ERC(Electronic Range Control). Call the warrantee company and give them the model number and serial number of your range and ask them if it still has a parts warrantee on the electronics. If it does, they will have to send their technician out to replace the part or parts and charge you for the labor. Your model may have the membrane and Erc all in one part, so an easy diagnosis, if it is seperate you need to make sure the membrane ribbon connector is plugged tightly into the Erc, plug your range back in, press cancel, and then retest. If it still fails then replace the membrane, test and if it fails again, replace the Erc. Before you tear into this make sure you unplug the unit for 30 minutes, plug it back in and test. Sometimes this will reset the Erc and solve your problem. If it doesn't the make sure you unplug the range before doing any repair work. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
on Jun 19, 2019
Need wiring solution for replacement part
Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.
Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.
New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.
I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.
Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.
Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)
Now for the wiring:
Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #
L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2
On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).
Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....
Hope this helps.....
on Mar 15, 2020
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