The filters need to be seated properly to complete an electrical safety circuit. This keeps the unit from operating without the filters. The best way I have found to fix them when they get dislodged in the closed position is by using two spatulas. The first is used to move the filter forward a bit and the second is used to keep it pushed tightly forward to complete the circuit.
you don't have a regular igniter in this stove you have stick igniters it sounds like you have a bad spark module part WPW10331686 all the igniters are plugged into it,the spark module is up in the top console on the left side or on the back wall but it's easier if you pull out the stove to get behind it,make sure you unplug the stove before you work on it,go here to see picture of module
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Control-Module/WPW10331686/1937904
also you can go here to sears site,put your model number in and see all parts,go to control panel to see spark module
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KGRS807SSS00/0593/0124002.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KGRS807SSS00&searchTerm=KGRS807SSS00
Hi Cecchung,
I think I know it.
Modern cookers have semi automatic ignition. Behind every knob there is a hidden switch and the switches are wired in "parallel". That means, when one button is put in "sparkstand", all plugs will spark. At least it should be.
In the youtube movie you can see how these switches are in a string.
So I suppose that the switch behind the button for the main burner does not work.
Fortunately, you still can lit that burne r with the other buttons.
Look at the movie, may be you can fix it yourself.
Kind regards, Dik
Maytag Gas Stove Burner Won Light Spark Ignition Switch
Hello,
I would suggest, that when a new bulb does not work either, there is a problem with the wire connection to the bulbholder.
As far as I know, there is no fuse in the cooker.
The bulbs and the bulbholder become very hot in use and i often see alsmost melted connections. Then there becomes oxidation in the connection and that blocks the circuit.
A second possibility is what you can see on the picture in the link.
It is the second picture, Light socket brass tab.
Sometimes it becomes so hot that it removes from the connection with the bulb. You can pull it back a little and try again.
BE VERY CAREFULLY AND DISCONNECT THE COOKER BEFORE DOING THISLight Bulbs Keep Burning Out In Same Light Fixture
You should not have been able t force the oven open when in self cleaning mode since u did I am sure that you have damaged the locking mechanism and the solenoid lock inside the top of the oven that sets the lock when doing self cleaning.
this is not a huge problem but it needs to be fixed most likely not by u call an appliance rpair shop in your area and it should cost no more than $150 to fix
For broil burner ignition an oven broiler burner spark electrode is used to ignite the gas. The electrode is a device that sits right next to the broil burner. It functions like a spark plug. As power is applied to it a spark jumps from the spark electrode tip to the to the electrode shield, igniting the gas. If the electrode is broken or worn out the spark may not occur or be intermittent. Visually inspect the electrode assembly for cracks in the porcelain housing or damage to the electrode tip itself. Be aware that a proper ground and the correct polarity of the incoming voltage to the range is necessary for the electrode control to sense the presence of a flame once the burner is ignited.
there is also a spark control module but I don't think that's it usually no spark when bad.
if you need or want parts ck here for your unit.
hope this helps a little
https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/-x6b677373393037737373/Kgss907sss-Parts
-Did it just happened ?
If yes then some thing or food waste clogged that gas line.
If not. It's been like that since new then the factory that make this stove assemble by mistake.
Check it out
Good luck
Mai
HUZZAH! I think I may have discovered your problem!!
Search for: "Whirlpool KERC507HWH3 Electric Range"
and ye shall find the mystery "fusable link" KitchenAid never mentions! I included a photo and link for you!
Part Number: Whirlpool WP9781691 Thermal Fuse
Made by: Whirlpool but YIKES, it's just a FUSE with heat-shrink and they want $27.87 plus SHIPPING ~ arggggg.
BE 2000% SURE THAT AC IS TOTALLY DISCONNECTED!
Description This oven control board thermal fuse islocated in the wire harness between the control board and the terminal block.
FIND THIS FUSE AND DISCONNECT IT... Use a common OHM meter to test it! ZERO ohms (or 1 or 2 ohms) is good! OPEN or NO ohms is bad for sure... There is a difference between open and zero ohms... zero ohms is close to a (dead) short. Open is like a brownout light bulb.
I know this puppy has to pass a LOT of AMPS*, but "I" would find some other way to install a H.D. Fuse Block and budget replaceable FUSE.
Now look at this approach from eBay for $16.55 including shipping ~ NOW THERE is the ticket! eBay: 272078548386.
Now all you need to do is mount it and find the CORRECT FUSE to install... (*your MANUAL says 40 AMPS). Hint... buy a spare or two. A purest would screw-down a upside down 'Gladware plastic box' (or similar) over the fuse block.
Anthony
ORIGINAL
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-in-line-fuse-wp9781691-ap6014188.html
EBAY
GOULD SHAWMUT FUSE BLOCK and AMP TRAP 2000 AJT50 TIME DELAY FUSE 50A...
This website has your answers to your specific fault code:
Kitchen Aid Appliance Fault Codes
It states:
F1-E0 - EEPROM Communication Error - Disconnect power for at least 30 seconds and then reconnect. Allow at least a minute after power has been restored and if error code reappears, replace control board (clock). I hope this helps you. The next link shows what bad part may be:
KESK901SSS Parts List
