KitchenAid Dishwashers - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

SORRY BUT STORESSELL THAT STAR SCREW DRIVERS BY THE SET AND THEY ARE NOT THAT COSTLY GO BUY SOME

Where will I find the thermal fuse ?

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Flashing clean light is reset by pressing two buttons in sequence 3-4 times, to reset your kenmore press these buttons in sequence:

High temp wash-heated dry-high temp wash-heated dry

Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

"Anonymous" reply was HUGELY helpful, got my unit running again. Thanks for taking the time to write that up!!

Some dishwashers have a soft food disposal inside. If something is hung up, it will grind or hum for a long time. If this is the problem, it will eventually go away.

This could be the relay that controls the heating element, I dont see a separate relay so it may be on the main board. The relay could be stuck closed due to the high current that might have welded the contacts closed. It could also be a sensor issue that is closing that relay. The error code you listed says it is detecting cold water.

Today my father and I solved this problem permanently for about four dollars. Yes only $4!!! I priced out the total repair for a Kitchenaid repair guy with parts and labor to be at least $250 and that was just too much for a $1500 dishwasher. Here's how we did it and here's how kitchenaid should have done it in the first place...After searching the internet and diagnosing the problem with my kitchenaid superba dishwasher, I also found that my nylon pulley spring system on one side had ruptured. Door made loud explosive sound one day when opening and then would just drop open real hard once unlatched after that day. I really didn't care too much about it until my three year old almost opened the door on my one year old's head. I took off the bottom panel and found a broken nylon string and a couple of white plastic pieces. That lead me to this website.So I looked into fixing this myself and got ready to order the part from herehttp://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=1059756&PPStack=1and found it would be about $25 with shipping and handling and would arrive in about a week. I figured that there has to be a better way than nylon string to absorb the transition from metal spring to metal door. This problem was bound to recur in a short period of time because nylon is not made to take that tensile force. We went to Lowe's, bought four feet of 1/16 inch galvanized woven steel cable (total cost of $1) and two sets of ferrule and stops ($3 for both). Then we unscrewed the two side fasteners holding the dishwasher to the cabinets (We had already unscrewed the two screws and removed the base board). We placed masking tape on the floor to prevent the foot pads from scratching as we pulled out the dishwasher. With a little upward lift, my father was able to turn the foot pads and create more room and we then placed felt pads under them to padd additional protection from scratching.Here is the broken nylon and its plastic pieces and the springclose up of the poor construction that this heavy door relies onWe then measured out the distance from the end of the spring through the pulleys and to the hook on the door to be 17 inches, and thus, constructed a steel replica 16.5 inches to keep everything tight.So, from then end of one loop to the end of the other loop measured 16.5 inches. We double crimped each end with the ferrules.The other side was intact, but we just went ahead and removed it and replaced it with our new steel cable replicas. Here is the final insertion showing the steel cable going through the pulleys and hooking on the door.The door works great. My wife can't believe it. Most of all, my children are safe from head injuries from the heavy door. This whole escapade took about 45 minutes to do and literally only cost $4, yes four dollars. I suggest two people to do the job as my father was helpful in holding the flashlight and making sure we had enough slack on the water lines when we pulled out and pushed the washer back in. I hope this helps anyone that googles 'kitchenaid superba door' or 'kitchenaid superba broken heavy door'. Eat your heart out kitchenaid, make the next line of washers with a steel cable instead of nylon.

Press High Temp Scrub and Dry Heat option buttons in quick succession one after the other for about 6 sec until all the lights come on. Then press Cancel button. This should reset the dishwasher. Press equivalent buttons on the panel if the actual ones above are not there. Make sure the dishwasher detergent dispenser lid is shut and the dishwasher door is shut before you start the above reset sequence.

Sounds like the pump belt is broken. Accessible from the front, under the machine.

Sound like the is a problem with one of the supply pipes for the water check they are not blocked and the is no turn off on

There are several touch pad buttons that could activate the Child Lock feature on a Kitchenaid dishwasher. To toggle off the lock, try pressing and holding the 4-hour delay dry or the energy saver dry key pads for 4+ seconds. The Energy Saver Dry is used for the Child Lock on the Kitchenaid KUDS25SHWH1. This manual is here: https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L9050329.pdf . The 4-hour delay or Control Lock options are listed in this manual: https://www.kitchenaid.com/content/dam/global/documents/201605/owners-manual-W10596243-RevD.pdf . If neither of these steps work, you may have a problem with the keypad, the wiring between the keypad and the control board or the control board itself. Please add a comment with the model of the dishwasher if you'd like me to try and find the parts list/diagram. If the machine is under warranty, you may want to contact Kitchenaid. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

I experienced the same problem after my tension cables broke. The door fell open with such force that it bent the hinges a little. If you've replaced the tension strings (which you should do every 5-8 years) then you don't have to replace the latch. I did and it didn't solve the problem.Here's the solution:Put a towel at the bottom of each side of the door by the hinge.Push the door closed a couple of times to bend back the hinges.Remove the towels and you're back in action.Good luck

Sounds like control board failure

Manual next link https://www.manualslib.com/manual/87795/Kitchenaid-Kuds01fl.html?page=13#manual some links below dealing with water leaks. My thought, If the water starts pouring out after a while it could have to do with the dish washer drain pump, hoses and connections. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwrlocTT2sM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDNiLvApKLc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7b1-M_WKYJs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwIcooyu7GI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUQQuVitEdo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-ddBOqEb0E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQWIOBvC2XU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edsv5aJCEEA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvJhZt1FIr8

The blinking usually happens when your house power goes off and then comes back on. Press the Start/Cancel Button to reset.

Is the water clean water or dirty water? This may sound like an ignorant question, but it can make a difference. If the water is clean water, it sounds like you could have a bad fill valve. If the dishwasher is filling with water when it is not running, chances are the fill valve is leaking. The valve is closed when the float switch senses the tub filling to a certain level. The valve is also closed when not energized by the control board during drain, drying and off cycles. However, if the valve diaphragm is not seating properly when closed, it will continue to leak by. That's probably why you don't notice it while is running and it has a chance to fill during the night when not in use. Here's what to look for: With the dishwasher off, take a towel and dry the tub as much as possible. Now, locate the fill port where the water comes in (usually on the left hand side of the tub). Watch this fill port closely for several minutes to see if water is running in. It could be as minute as a trickle or drip. If any water is coming in at all, the fill valve should be replaced. Now, another problem that can occur is when you notice dirty water staying in the tub or overflowing. This is usually caused by a bad check valve in the drain pump that's allowing water to leak back from the sink into the tub. Or, you do not have a high loop in the drain line. Here's what to look for: Check to make sure the drain line has a high loop as it leaves the dishwasher and before it gets to the drain pipe at the sink. That is, make sure the drain hose is looped above the trap in the sink and not laying under the sink somewhere. You can also try filling the sink with water and open the dishwasher door. Drain the sink to see if anything is getting fed back into dishwasher. If you see water starting to fill in the tub, chances are you could have a bad check valve. Some dishwashers have a check valve in the drain pump, while other models have the check valve located in the drain hose itself. Some don't have one at all. That's why the positioning of the drain hose can be important. Good luck to you and I hope this may help. If you determine a cause, post back with comments if you need advice on how to replace anything.

My recommendation is the heat exchanger has failed or default, this can happen anytime but typically after 5+ years old

I found this post elsewhere. It seems to have worked for me: Our KitchenAid KUDP series dishwasher went into a mode where it would not start and would only respond to the cancel/drain button. The clean light would flash 7 times in a row, stop, and then repeat. I read that the 7 flashes indicates an error code and that the dishwasher has detected a problem in the heater element circuit. I tried to reset the error mode by turning off power for 15 minutes, however, that did not work.
We called for a repair. The service person found that the dishwasher was completely fine except that it had gone into an error mode. The technician reset the error mode and charge us $115.00.

The reset sequence used was reported to be the following:
1) Crack the door open.
2) Within 3 seconds press the following sequence - Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry, Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry
3) Close and latch the door
4) Press the cancel button (the circle with the triangle in it)

We were told the dishwasher expects to see the dish water temperature rise in a certain way. If the water does not heat in this way, the dishwasher becomes confused and thinks the heater element has failed. In deed, this happened just following and extended power failure and our hot water tank was cool. I am curious if this code will work for anybody else with the same problem and save a service call and 115 bucks. Overall, this seems to be a serious logic flaw in the design.

If you replaced the door latch did you replace the striker? Those are the only 2things that keep it closed.