KitchenAid Coffee Makers & Espresso Machines - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Isopropol Alcohol is the wrong product for that issue. It is a pure alcohol solvent. I have two ideas, and the smell is probably from having water sitting in it an eventually drying out and fusing to limescale. I descale my machine every 6 months. I use CLR. https://www.google.com/search?q=kitchenaid+coffee+machine+descale CLR https://www.google.com/search?q=clr+coffee+maker The other product you might try is 5% Hydrogen Peroxide which is a non toxic, organic bleach. https://www.google.com/search?q=hydrogen+peroxide+to+clean+coffee+maker ..

You will need to investigate the reason that it's not heating. Check the element and the thermal fuse that should be on the element for continuity. If the fuse has failed replace it and try it again. If the element has failed you may be looking at buying a new coffeemaker.

Probably the device has calcium built up in it. Do a proper flushing round of at least 500ML (around 15 flushings) or do the "Decalcify" program with the needed tablet for the machine.

Either the scale has not been removed or the sensing circuit has failed. From Kitchenaid, signs a coffee maker needs cleaned; 1, Cleaning indicator light comes on (select models) 2. Excessive brew times 3. Gurgling or other unusual noises during the brew cycle. So ignoring first condition, does it exhibit either of the remaining two? If yes, then likely remaining scale. Try letting descaling agent set, up to max period stated by mfg, then start clean cycle. If no, possible sense failure.

Leaking water from bottom of unit during brewing:

• Verify that the water is leaking from the bottom of the coffee maker and not just running down the back during filling and pooling underneath. (Look under coffee maker - without lifting - to see if water droplets are hanging from bottom of unit)

Resolution: If verified that water is leaking from bottom of coffee maker Contact Us for further assistance. https://www.kitchenaid.com/service-and-support.html

The "percollator" column has become dislodged from the heating element. You may be able to see the tube in the water tank and move it back over the heating element. If you can't understand this info, then it is not for you to do it yourself.

There is a blockage in the drip tray or inside the cavity where your coffee goes, give it a good clean out

You don't say if there is any water flowing along with the loud noise. If there is none then my suggestion would be that it's a dry water pump so you will need to force some water up the clear pickup tube into the pump while it's making that loud noise. The pump valves will be dry.

Shame we don't know what model you are talking about.

contact the manufacturer spares department and order direct

I would remove the filter grille from the group head (Philips screw) and then clean the surface behind that sufficient that you can see and then unscrew the 2x Allen head bolts holding the aluminium puck in place. The puck will be frozen in place even after bolt removal but easily broken away by levering it with a large screwdriver. You can lever against the bracket that carries the group handle. Once you have the puck out scrape it clean and buff it up with a wire brush and clean out the 4 holes through the puck where the water is supposed to pass through on its way to the coffee. Check if the group seal has gone hard and replace it while the puck is out if it has. When done reassemble it. Blockage of those 4 holes is a very common cause of zero flow. It's doubtful the solenoids will be faulty but not impossible. It is possible that a solenoid coil has gone open though, testing and comparing with a meter or just swap the coffee and steam coils over will prove/disprove that one.

Remove the filter grille with the single cross head screw in the middle, then undo the 2x allen head screws now exposed. It may require some sideways levering with a large screwdriver once the allen screws are out to move the aluminium puck. You really do need to get it out to clean the puck up. Make sure the 4 holes thru the puck are cleaned out properly with a drill and buff all surfaces up with a wire brush. Remove the old brew head seal and clean up where the puck came from then refit the puck and push the new seal into place.

You need to replace the boiler top that includes the elements. When one element has failed the other one stops as well if it is included in the circuit, it's the same as having a broken wire.

You will need to test for where the power stops & check the fuses on each boiler for continuity. If you find any blown then replace the thermostat on that boiler along with the fuses. The thermostats are different rating for each boiler, don't mix them up. It's highly unusual for both boilers to fail at the same time. Occasionally one of the boiler elements can fail, there are 2 elements on each boiler, check them for continuity. If you have any boiler leaks then replace all the seals on that boiler, the steam one is the one most likely to leak. Buy your own seals using the old ones as samples from someone specialising in O ring supply. There are 5 seals on each boiler. Do not purchase rubber or silicone seals, only use Viton seals, they are high temperature.

Test each element for the correct resistance. Check the thermal fuses for a circuit, they are held onto the top of the boiler with a screw down bracket. Check for a circuit through the thermostat.

You must have water in the controls, use a blower dryer and dry it all out or just let it set for a few days and see if it works again, if not you must have done something wrong assembling it, what that might be is really hard to say.

If the grinder is turning and not stalling it sounds like an assembly problem.

It sounds like the accessory drive gear and the bevel gear have failed. It's unlikely the gear on one will fail without wrecking the other. It's going to involve splitting the gear cases to find out. Back cover off, black wire and white wire unclipped from speed control plate. Upside down on a towel and pedestal off. Chrome drip ring off, punch pin through on planetary and remove it. Undo 9 screws through from bottom gearcase and you can lift the bottom case off the top and find out. If the gears are ground up you will need to clean all the old contaminated grease out and replace it along with the damaged gears. The grease is special food grade grease available from kitchen aid probably in a large enough tin that will ensure you never need to buy more in your lifetime.

Stick a thin blade up into the edge of the screw hole and try and flick it out. It may happen easier if you get the coffeemaker up to temperature. It is just the coffee gunk holding it in. It may be easier to warm it up, remove the tank and lie it in its back on a towel. The screen should clean up after an overnight soak in Coca Cola and then a brush up with an old toothbrush. The place where the screen sits will clean up with a stiff wire brush. There are 4 holes equally spaced towards the middle around the centre screw hole, clean them carefully with a drill of the correct size if they are blocked. That part is actually removable, held with in place with 2x allen head screws but sometimes very difficult to remove. Cleaning with the wire brush and the drill bit is normally 90% good enough anyway.