Kenmore HE2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
My kenmore HE2 wont drain.
Hi there I suggest that some machines have that white ball to stop water from syphoning out of the machine when on a wash cycle but your problem is either a blocked pump, (try and take the pump off as some debris will go past the filter and stop the impeller from turning hence no water being pumped out) or a kinked outlet hose which can easily happen when you push the machine back into it's place in the kitchen.
I'm not too conversant with your make of machine but in general all machines are basically the same.
If you can't hear the pump spinning then it may be something more like one of the circuit boards may have failed.
Drum wont turn, Do I need a belt?
To recall an error code:
- Wake the machine by pressing any button
- Wait 5 seconds
- Press and hold the Start and Pause Cancel buttons simultaneously
- All LEDs will go blank and after a few seconds the control will signal the stored code using audible beeps and blinking LEDs. The control will repeatedly signal the code, as long as the Start and Pause Cancel buttons are pressed. A two-second pause between repeats affords you the ability to make accurate counts to identify the correct error codes.
Error code - Fault condition
E11 Fill time too long.
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell.
E14 Reed switch.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.
E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.
E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open.
E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 Control board problem.
E44 Control board problem.
E45 Control board problem.
E46 Control board problem.
E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 Motor overheating.
E56 High motor current.
E57 High current on inverter.
E58 High current on motor phase.
E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A High temperature on heat sink.
E5B High temperature on heat sink.
E5C High temperature on heat sink.
E5D Communication problem.
E5E Communication problem.
E5F Communication problem.
E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit.
E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits.
E95 Communication error.
EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 Clogged drain pump.
EF2 Too much soap.
- Hope this helps. When mine didn't spin it was the door switch, I ordered the part from Lowe's and it was an easy fix.
I have a kenmore HE2 plus with error code F33 and
The F33 error code indicates a pump drive system error. If the pump ohms
out correctly & the harness is secure I recommend replacing the CCU
(central control unit).
Please see the following image provided for instructions.
Remember to disconnect power to the washer before attempting access.
Thanks for using FixYa&^%%$
Washer won't fill or start cycle fault codes
Seems that the controller thinks your machine is full of water. Water level pressure sensor may be sticky. May be blockage down air line to pressure sensor - try blowing into sensor end to clear.
(Always disconnect from power before attempting repairs).
Wash Cycle will not start; add garment and door locked lights on.
IF you take the panel off the is below the door, there is a drain plug and you should take it out. YOU will get lots of WATER. Be ready. Clean this out and try again. The issue is most likely the water solenoid valve is bad or the board that controls it is bad. You can also find the tech sheet when you look for the drain. It has all the tests that you can run.
The door remains locked
Front Loading such as the Kenmore Elite washing machines use a door lock and switch assembly
having a tab that can be pulled manually for emergency opening of the
door. This tab can be accessed with the removal of the lower front
access panel. Disconnect power to the washer and drain the water from the tub before accessing it.
the three screws attaching the lower front access panel to the cabinet
then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You can prop up the bottom
front edge of the washer or cushion and lean it against the wall to
access and remove the screws more easily.
Once the panel is off,
reach up along the inside of the front panel and locate the bottom of
the door lock and switch assembly on the right side. Locate the
tear-drop shaped tab then gently pull it down until a click is heard,
and then open the door.
The door lock and switch assembly may need to be replaced if the problem persists. The replacement procedure is here.
Front Loading such as the Kenmore Elite use another type of door lock and switch assembly but still with the release tab and can be accessed through the washer top. Remove the screws attaching the top panel to the rear of the machine then pull the panel rearward and off the cabinet. Pull the release tab until a click is heard then open the door.
Won't Spin after wash cycle
Does it have a code...the access panel in on the front..above the drawers..screws are under so look for them...also go to their web site Kenmore.com and the have a help section.
Open locked door
To open the door when locked. Start new wash cycle and the door will lock - unlock then lock again. when it unlocks open the door quick.
Codes SD and F1
im sorry to say but your main control board to the machine is now defunct aka broken you can find the ecb at marcone appliance online and they will mail you the part directly to your front door hope this helps sorry about the bad news
My Kenmore Washer model: 110.49962603
By what you have stated, it sounds like a lid switch failure. The lid switch has to be closed for the drain and spin cycle on your washer. If the lid switch is faulty, it will act as if the lid is not closed. On this model, make sure the lid hinge screws are tight. If the screws are loose, the hinge might not activate the lid switch. A quick check you can do is to jump the lid switch and see if it will drain. If the washer operates, the lid switch needs to be replaced. To jump the lid switch you need to unplug the washer and open the console. I have provided you with the instructions for opening the console below. Once you have the console open, locate the connector for the lid switch. Place an insulated jumper between the gray and tan wires. Not the green it is a ground and will cause a short. After inserting the jumper make sure it will not touch anything metal, plug the washer in. Start the washer in a drain cycle. If the washer drains and spins, you need to replace the lid switch. Do not leave the jumper in while you are waiting for the part. The jumper is only of the test. To you replace the lid switch you have to remove the cabinet of the washer. The instructions for that are also in the image below. Once the cabinet is removed you can take the screws out securing the lid switch and remove the harness from the clips along the underside of the cabinet. Then reinstall the lid switch in the reverse order. Before you reassemble the cabinet, please read the instructions for installing the cabinet provided in the image. I hope this is helpful. Please reply below if you need further assistance.
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