Kenmore Sewing Machines - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


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Kenmore Sewing... | Answered on Aug 05, 2020


Bad switch that changes the direction. You might be able to clean the switch with Contact Cleaner.

Kenmore Sewing... | Answered on Jul 07, 2020


The drive belt only brings power from the motor to the mechanism driven by the hand wheel. Some machines have more than one belt; the other belts are part of the stitch selection mechanism. However, I'm not sure about your model. http://www.searsarchives.com/history/files/sewing_id.pdf lists a 158.492 and a 148.392 but no 153.392. A more likely issue for an older sewing machine is that the stop motion mode is engaged. This disengages the needle bar connection. Does your machine have a knob inside the hand wheel? If so, hold the hand wheel and turn the knob away from you (clockwise). For other machines, check if the bobbin winding mechanism needs to be moved to the left. If these aren't the case, then a linkage between the hand wheel and the needle bar isn't connected properly. The machine would need to be disassembled to find the problem. For any machine with a computer control, this is best done by a sewing machine repair technician unless you have experience with repairing electronics.

I hope this helps. Please add a comment if you misread the model number for further assistance on how the bobbin winding mechanism might be stopping the needle bar. I have assumed that you can freely turn the hand wheel.

Cindy Wells

Kenmore Sewing... | Answered on Jul 05, 2020


the halifax switch under the top cover needs to be adjusted

Kenmore 15218... | Answered on Jul 03, 2020


https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/89679

Kenmore Sewing... | Answered on Jul 02, 2020


This procedure is SPECIFIC TO THE PFAFF 7570. It MAY work for you. Try at your own risk.
Needed tools:
Small flat screw driver.
Large Phillips screw driver
Small torx screw driver
Large torx screw driver
Small cleaning brush
Small scissors and long tweezers.
Machine oil.
Old tooth brush.
Dish detergent.
Lots of care and patience.
In this particular case, perseverance was the winner. I'm quite handy with mechanical things, so I had to partially disassemble the machine until I found the cause of the problem. The foot presser mechanism DOES have a spring, but it's concealed and out of sight. I never suspected it, but that was the case. When I found it, white grease that was put there at the factory to lubricate its movement had turned into a think sticky gunk. That was what was holding the foot presser in the up position. This gunk was so stubborn! I had to clean the spring, the housing and a plastic pin really well, and then oiled all the components inside their housing. More below.
The shaft of the foot presser is hollow at the top. This is designed to hold a 1-5/8" spring and a 5/8" black plastic pin that's inserted at the top of the spring and protrudes from the hollow shaft.
Start placing the 7570 on a table that has a height that's comfortable for you. You'll be standing and squatting a lot to accomplish the task.
Standing behind the machine, and looking down, there's a metallic plate on your right that holds the thread tension discs. This plate covers the shaft, found underneath, and holds together the mechanism with the round wheel with numbers that protrudes slightly on the side of the machine's body.
Several pieces had to be disassembled in order to get to this plate, although at this point I'm doubting whether or not so much work was necessary, since I was so excited upon the discovery that I forgot to notice whether I could have found the spring and remove it without having to disassemble so many pieces.
The metal plate is black and thick, and is held down with a heavy gauge black machine screw. The plastic pin makes contact with the underside of this plate, which compresses the spring when the foot presser lever is up. Once the lever is disengaged from its locked or resting position (in the case of the embroidery position), the compressed spring pushes the entire foot presser down, as it DID when I first bought the machine.
These are the disassembly steps, without diagrams, but use your imagination as best you can to picture my description.
1 - Top cover removal.
The top cover (the one with the different built-in patterns drawn on its inside face) is held in place by two thin black metal plates where it hinges. A little bit of pressure towards the outside on the top of one of the plates (on either side) will release the pivot pin on one end, and then a little jiggle in the same direction will release the other. Put the cover aside.
2 - Concave top cover removal.
This cover is the one that houses the thread spool in the horizontal position, if that is your choice when sewing. It is held down by two plated machine screws, one short and one long. After removing the screws a little jiggling will help removing it, pulling it mainly upwards. You may need to put the large handle up, to allow for more movement. Put it aside once removed.
3 - Side cover removal.
This covers the area where the foot presser is housed, on the left side of the machine, as you face the buttons on the front of the machine.
Standing behind the machine, once step 2 has been achieved, one can see from the top, looking down, a large black machine screw on your right hand side, just inside the cover. You don't need to remove it completely, just about 1/2 turn will loosen the pressure to release the cover. Pull the cover outwards and sideways and set aside. You may want to also remove the light bulb, to be able to get to the mechanism to clean it, to remove pieces of thread that may be lying around or caught in the different moving parts. Push the light bulb gently in while turning it counter clockwise. You'll feel it disengaging from its socket. Pull it out and set it aside. Clean it if necessary. Use the scissors and the tweezers to remove any lint and debris.
4 - Pressure discs plate removal.
I'm not 100% sure now that this can be done at this stage, but continue. If this particular plate cannot be removed, because other components get in the way, then skip to step #4A below and come back here later.
Standing behind the machine, looking down at the housing, you'll see another large black machine screw holding down a black metal plate. Remove it completely and put it aside. Next, remove the plate, gently nudging its way out of the different obstacles that may be present. One of them may be the sewing shaft mechanism. If this is the case, gently turn the wheel manually to cause the mechanism to move up or down, as to allow more room for the plate to be completely removed.
Make sure you lift this plate slowly, as to prevent the spring and plastic pin from spilling inside the machine's body. Put the plate aside. Now you see the black plastic pin, perhaps stuck inside the hollow part of the foot presser. If so, pry it loose gently and clean it with a sudsy solution, and use an old tooth brush to remove the gunk from its coils. Do likewise to the plastic pin.
While you have the housing exposed with lots of space, I would suggest you should remove any debris, dust, etc, and oil all the moving parts with sewing machine oil.
5 - Assembly.
This is done in the reverse order. Congratulations! You've done it!
Additional steps, if metal plate in step 4 above cannot be removed after step 3.
4A - Front plate removal (The one with the colored buttons and LCD display).
Standing behind the machine, looking down, you'll see a grey ribbon cable crossing the case from back to front, under the main shaft. Remove its connector by pulling it up gently. No force or tools are necessary. Bend the ribbon to one side and set it aside, out of the way.
Squatting a little from the same position, looking inside the foot presser housing, you'll see two small plated screws, close to the edge of the housing, one towards the top and another towards the bottom. Remove completely.
In the same squatting position, and moving your attention to the main machine housing, you'll see the green PCB board. It's held by at least three screws. One of them, on your extreme left, is not visible because it's concealed by a plastic insert at the top of the left end of the 7570. This insert is held down in place by a thin black metal plate. This plate has a tiny hole where the top cover of step 1 hinges.
Gently turn the small torx screw holding down this plate 1/2 turn counter clockwise to release the pressure. Once loosened, slide the plate slightly towards your right. This will allow you to pull the insert up.
With the insert out of the way, squatting again, you'll see the third plated screw on your left. Remove it.
Turn the machine upside down and ensure it's not rocking from side to side.
Use the large torx driver to remove the machine's base. This base contains a power supply box, and another green PCB board. It's connected to the rest of the machine with several ribbon cables of different colors. The base is attached by 4 machine screws. Loosen the screws completely and remove using the tweezers.
Raise the base from the right end, allowing its other end to rest on the edge of the inverted 7570 body and stand it at 90°. Inspect the location, orientation, and general layout of the cabling. You may need to unlatch one or more plastic holders for the ribbons, which hold them flat and organized. Remove these holders to have greater access to the connectors.
Jot down the order of the different ribbons and the way the are inserted into their sockets on the PCB found inside the base. Fortunately the connectors are of different sizes, and there should be no way to insert the wrong one in the wrong socket, but it's best to be safe. Jot down order, color, etc.
Gently pull on the different connectors from the PCB board. A little bit of force is all that is needed. Push them aside one by one in order to allow you to see more and create more space.
Next, disconnect the large power cord. You need to insert a small flat screw driver to release pressure on the sides of the socket. Do it one side at a time, and then gently pull it out. Set the base aside. You're almost done!
Next, looking down, pushing the ribbon cables away from you, you'll see two plated screws in each corner of the inverted 7570 housing, on the side closest to you. Remove completely. At this time you should be able to remove the face plate, gently threading the widest of the ribbon cables through the opening on your left, in order to put the base aside.
With the face plate out of its position, put the machine in its straight up position and step 4 above can be accomplished.
Now, I also did remove the 7570 main handle in order to create more space and see more in the reduced area of the foot presser housing. If you too find it necessary to do so, use the corner of the tip of a small flat screw driver to pry the lock ring open, being careful not to allow it to spring out of your fingers and falling inside the case. Slide the pin out and then the handle itself, horizontally.
Go back to step 4 above if you came here because you could not do step 4.

Kenmore 15218... | Answered on Jun 02, 2020


Most likely it is the top thread not pulling back sufficiently by the take up arm. This is controlled by top thread tension. Try increasing tension.

Test the tension mechanism by making a slow steady pull of top thread with foot up, then foot down. Note differrence between no tension (foot up) to selected tension (foot down).

Kenmore Sewing... | Answered on May 10, 2020


SERVICE MANUAL
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Kenmore Sewing... | Answered on May 09, 2020


CHECK BOBBIN FOR PROPER THREAD INSTILATION MY NIECE HAD PUT HERS IN BACKWARD

Kenmore Sewing... | Answered on May 01, 2020


Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.




Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !


Kenmore 11206 /... | Answered on Apr 14, 2020


The E1 error code indicates that a fuse is blown on the control board. The first image below shows the fuse that corresponds to the E1 error code. NOTE: Be sure to unplug the sewing machine before you access any internal parts.Jun 10, 2008
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/error-codes/sewing-machine-repair/1234596/kenmore-385-model-sewing-machine/0582

Kenmore Sewing... | Answered on Apr 11, 2020


You should be able to find it on Sears.com. Just put in the model #

Kenmore Sewing... | Answered on Apr 08, 2020

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