Kenmore Dryers - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Yes, the contact in the switch are probably dirty or burned.

Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+HE5+dryer+sensing%2Frevising+estimated+time+light+on%2C+dryer+wont+start The previous Answer you may have seen was generated by a Chat GPT4 bot, so was deleted along will all its other answers. ..

limited info generic answer check and test motor -circuit and belt

check for any loose connections or faulty components

Folks, we really need a Model# otherwise were just guessing. Thanks. Check these sites for location. https://www.google.com/search?q=kenmore+dryer+model+number+location

Measure with tape measure. Or if buying ask seller to get tape measure. Or if buy new one to replace model gone for disposal, measure the space available. All fairly standard size anyway unless 'compact' model. 29 inches wide - 28 deep and 43 tall! https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+dryer+model+417.91052000+dimensions ..

items to check see the pics

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/swgmc934jt-000582/kenmore-41788052700-dryer-parts

The lint filter might need to be cleaned out. Or the dryer vent is clogged.

The heating circuit is composed not only by the heating element and the timer but also with a high-limit thermostat, a thermal cut-off, and a cycling thermostat. The high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off are both mounted on the heater housing to monitor and regulate the heater temperature while the cycling thermostat is mounted on the blower housing to monitor and regulate the temperature of the exhaust air.

All of these components are wired in series and a failure in any of them results in the dryer not heating. The proper troubleshooting is by checking the continuity of each of these components with a volt-ohmmeter and replacing the ones found without continuity (open).

A continuity check can also be done by bypassing each of the three components, never the heating element, and then starting the dryer. The dryer should heat, otherwise the problem is somewhere in the timer, the heating element, or the centrifugal switch within the motor. When the dryer heats up, unplug it then un-bypass one of the bypassed components and start the dryer. If the dryer stops heating then you have found the failed component; replace it. If the dryer does not stop heating, do the same to the remaining components until you find the failed one. Just make sure the dryer is unplugged before touching the components.

Replace both the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off if any of them has failed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer if you need further or more specific advice.

If your Kenmore dryer continues to stop running after releasing the start button and makes a loud crackling noise, even after replacing the motor, thermal fuse, and thermostats, it indicates that there may be an underlying issue causing the problem. Here are a few additional troubleshooting steps you can consider:

1. Check the belt and drum: A worn-out or damaged belt can cause the dryer to stop running. Inspect the belt for signs of wear, fraying, or breakage. Additionally, check the drum to ensure it is rotating smoothly without any obstructions.
2. Examine the idler pulley: The idler pulley is responsible for maintaining tension on the belt. If it's worn or faulty, it can lead to belt slipping or snapping, causing the dryer to stop. Inspect the idler pulley for any signs of damage or wear.
3. Inspect the motor pulley: A loose or damaged motor pulley can also cause issues with the dryer's operation. Make sure the motor pulley is securely attached and not wobbling or damaged.
4. Check for obstructions: Clear out any lint, debris, or obstructions that may be present in the dryer's exhaust vent or air intake areas. Buildup can restrict airflow, leading to overheating and causing the dryer to stop.
5. Consider electrical issues: A faulty electrical connection or wiring problem could contribute to the dryer's behavior. Check the power cord, outlet, and circuit breaker to ensure they are functioning correctly.

If the issue persists after attempting these steps, it's recommended to consult a professional technician who specializes in appliance repair. They will have the expertise to diagnose and resolve complex issues with your Kenmore dryer.

If you suspect that the start button on your Kenmore HE5T dryer is faulty, there are a few steps you can take to address the issue:

1. Confirm the problem: Before assuming the start button is the cause, check if there are any other factors contributing to the dryer not starting. Ensure that the dryer is properly plugged in, the door is securely closed, and the control settings are correctly selected.
2. Troubleshoot other components: If the dryer still doesn't start after checking the above factors, it's worth checking other components that could potentially affect the start function. This includes the thermal fuse, door switch, and the timer. A malfunctioning component other than the start button could be causing the problem.
3. Replace the start button: If you have determined that the start button is indeed the cause of the issue, the fix would involve replacing the faulty button. You can purchase a replacement start button from an authorized Kenmore parts distributor or directly from the manufacturer. Refer to the user manual or online resources for instructions specific to your model on how to replace the start button.
4. Seek professional assistance: If you are not comfortable or experienced in appliance repair, it's advisable to consult a professional technician or contact the manufacturer's customer support for further guidance. They can provide expert advice and ensure that the start button replacement is done correctly.

Remember, proper diagnosis of the issue is essential to determine if the start button is the actual problem. If you're unsure about performing any repairs yourself, it's always recommended to seek professional assistance to avoid further damage or injury.

To reverse the door on a Kenmore 700 series dryer, you can follow these general steps:

1. Gather the necessary tools: You may need a Phillips head screwdriver, a putty knife, and a small flathead screwdriver.
2. Unplug the dryer: Before starting any work, ensure the dryer is unplugged from the power source for safety.
3. Remove the hinge cover: Use a putty knife or a small flathead screwdriver to carefully pry off the hinge cover located on the opposite side of the door.
4. Remove the door: Locate the screws that secure the door to the dryer and use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove them. Carefully lift the door off the hinges and set it aside.
5. Remove the strike plate: On the opposite side of the door opening, remove the strike plate by unscrewing it.
6. Remove the door hinge: Unscrew the door hinge from the side it is currently attached to and transfer it to the other side of the opening.
7. Install the strike plate: Attach the strike plate to the opposite side of the door opening using the provided screws.
8. Reinstall the door: Place the door onto the new hinges and align it properly. Insert and tighten the screws to secure the door to the dryer.
9. Reinstall the hinge cover: Snap the hinge cover into place on the side where the door hinge used to be.
10. Test the door: Close and open the door to ensure it operates smoothly and securely.

It's important to note that specific instructions may vary depending on the exact model and design of your Kenmore 700 series dryer. Therefore, it is recommended to refer to the user manual or installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for detailed and model-specific guidance on reversing the door.

The flashing flow sensing arrow on a Kenmore Elite steam dryer with the model number 592 typically indicates an issue with the dryer's airflow. This arrow symbol is associated with the dryer's flow sensing feature, which detects and monitors the airflow during the drying process. When the arrow is flashing, it suggests that there may be a restriction or blockage in the dryer's vent system. This restriction can cause poor airflow, leading to longer drying times and potentially reduced drying performance. To troubleshoot this issue, you can take the following steps:

1. Check the dryer's lint filter: Make sure the lint filter is clean and free from debris. A clogged or dirty lint filter can restrict airflow.
2. Inspect the venting system: Check the dryer's exhaust vent hose and ensure it is properly connected and not kinked or obstructed. Additionally, check the external vent to ensure it is clear of any debris or obstructions.
3. Clean the venting system: If you haven't done so recently, it's recommended to clean the entire venting system. This involves disconnecting the dryer from the vent and thoroughly cleaning both the vent hose and the external vent.

If after performing these steps the issue persists and the arrow continues to flash, it may be necessary to contact a professional appliance technician or the manufacturer's customer support for further assistance. They will be able to provide specific troubleshooting steps and recommendations for your Kenmore Elite steam dryer model.

$80 to $158 depending on where you buy it. https://www.google.com/search?q=kenmore+80+series+gas+dryer+timer ..

try here.... https://www.appliancepartspros.com/search.aspx?model=110c68752700 they have a 800# too so you can confirm application. Best to you.

This is the closest manual I can find, there is nothing describing the symbols you see. It sound like a paused cycle. Try cutting the power at the breaker for 10 minutes to reset it. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/773676/Kenmore-592-89032.html?page=21#manual It's not an error code as they are F and a number. https://removeandreplace.com/2015/05/21/kenmore-elite-he3-washing-machine-error-codes-fix/ ..

check out this site..... https://homeguidecorner.com/panda-dryer-reset-button/

The usual suspect for a Kenmore HE that runs, but doesn't heat is a thermal cut-out or the thermal fuse. Although they are a bit more resilient, in some cases the heating element itself could be bad. The way to check: 1. UNPLUG THE DRYER, FIRST. 2. Remove the bottom kick plate on the front of the dryer. 3. Remove the blower fan cover directly under the lint screen. There should be a couple of 1/4" screws holding it on. 4. Directly behind the blower fan cover on top of the blower fan housing are two components. One is the operating thermostat, and the white one is a thermal fuse. The fuse is a one-shot fuse that must be replaced if it is bad. 5. To the right is the heating element housing. There are two additional components mounted on the side of the element housing. The component furthest to the back is the thermal fuse. The one one closest to you is the hi-limit thermostat. 6. Check the continuity of thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. They both should read a short. Additionally, check the resistance of the the heating element. The element should read something low (less than 20 ohms). 7. If the thermal fuse reads open, replace it. If the thermal cut-out is bad, replace the hi-limit thermostat with it. They are usually sold as a set. If the heating element is bad, you will need to disconnect all electrical leads and remove one 1/4" screw holding the element housing to the bottom casing. Pull the entire element housing from the dryer. Depending on model, sometimes the element slide out of the housing, sometimes you will need to remove a few screws to open it up. I hope this helps you.

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


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